I leave my f2 Thorium lens on the window ledge in my spare bedroom when I'm not using it, that's got rid of the yellow caste, and although I admit I have never tried it I can't believe that the subsequent f22 version is as sharp at all apertures as the Thorium one is.Regarding the 35/2 FD lens: if the minimum aperture is f/16, it is a thorium-element lens that will yellow over time. The 35/2 with minimum f/22 does not have thorium and will not yellow. I had the former and traded it for the latter because of this issue.
I suppose putting it out in sunlight for a few weeks would solve the issue, just as with some of the 50/1.4 Super Takumars.
... although I admit I have never tried it I can't believe that the subsequent f22 version is as sharp at all apertures as the Thorium one is.
I've had my Thorium lens for about thirty-five years Theo, and I think it almost defies the laws of physics because at most apertures it's almost as sharp at the edges of the frame as it is in the middle, I certainly won't be selling mine.You're most likely correct. My understanding is that thorium elements were used for better optical corrections. I'm sure one of the lens designers on this site could explain this better.
You write to have "all versions" of the 1.2 but haven't listed the FD 50 F1.2 lens.ps: bokeh wise i had great results with:
55/1.2 (all versions)
135/2.5 (Any version but FL and R version are smoother)
200/2.8 (bokeh to die for!)
Any of those is a great buy.
I would love to know which lens you used for the Jasper shot. The bokeh is to die for, and, though I'm a Canon FD fan, not all lenses have a fantastic bokeh. Perhaps I do hace that lens.
I have had (or have) all these:
You write to have "all versions" of the 1.2 but haven't listed the FD 50 F1.2 lens.
Look again at my post, I didn't write 55mm I wrote 50mm and there certainly was an FD 50mm f1.2 lens, I have one on one of my cameras at the moment.Far as I know, there were three versions of the 55/1.2, two of which I've owned. The original "chrome nose" 55/1.2, which has the same optical formula as the FL 55/1.2, the 55/1.2 SSC, which is the same as the "chrome nose" but with better multicoatings and no more chrome nose, and the 55/1.2 SSC Aspherical. As you know, the 50/1.2 is an entirely different optical formula.
I've never much cared for this feature regardless how its implemented, since, if being judicious about pulling leader from the cassette when loading the film, I've always been able to get a good exposure from frame zero.
I believe Nikon added this "user enhancement" to all their aperture priority capable cameras starting with the F3
Today I was playing with my Canon EF and realized how elegant a solution it has to advancing to the first frame: once you've threaded the film leader onto the takeup spool, simply close the back and advance the lever multiple times without the need to press the shutter release until the exposure counter reaches 1.
As far as I know, this is the only manual-wind camera that does this.
You've obviously never had the unpleasant experience of overwinding the film in the heat of the moment in the middle of a wedding or important paid gig and pulled it out of the cassette I have had in the past since then never shoot more than 33 on a 36 exposure film.This is fairly common on medium format, but on 35, people try to squeeze extra frames. (Me, I wish they still made 18 exposure 35mm rolls, since 24 or 36 are just way too many.). My Canonet QL17 GIII also advances to the first frame without using the shutter.
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