I REALLY Hate Loading 120 on Patterson Reels

[braxus]

This system has got to be the most frustrating system to load when dealing with 120 film. My rolls of 120 are 5 years old, so they had some curl to them. It literally took me an hour to load 2 rolls of Tri-X 120 onto my Patterson reels. The problem was trying to get them started. The second reel was worse, as it kept jamming inside the reel when turning over. I gave up on trying to get it to go right, as I'll see if the darn thing develops normally or not. Imagine being stuck inside a dark bag for an hour. Im really debating to go back to the stainless reels to do 120. It should not be this hard. I also used the method of using a card to feed the film inside the reel. Didnt help much as either the card would come out or the film got stuck feeding, so pulling the card out just F'd up the whole process. I ended up doing it without the cards.

Anyone else feel my frustration with this system and 120?

 

[BrianShaw]

For me it took a few times practice in daylight. After that I’ve not had any significant problems.

 

[MattKing]

I pull the film and tape off of the backing paper and then fold the tape over to create a more stiff leading edge for the film.
And I avoid changing bags at all cost.

 

[Pieter12]

This system has got to be the most frustrating system to load when dealing with 120 film. My rolls of 120 are 5 years old, so they had some curl to them. It literally took me an hour to load 2 rolls of Tri-X 120 onto my Patterson reels. The problem was trying to get them started. The second reel was worse, as it kept jamming inside the reel when turning over. I gave up on trying to get it to go right, as I'll see if the darn thing develops normally or not. Imagine being stuck inside a dark bag for an hour. Im really debating to go back to the stainless reels to do 120. It should not be this hard. I also used the method of using a card to feed the film inside the reel. Didnt help much as either the card would come out or the film got stuck feeding, so pulling the card out just F'd up the whole process. I ended up doing it without the cards.

Anyone else feel my frustration with this system and 120?

I often get frustrated loading both Patterson and Jobo 120 reels. Sometimes they work like a charm, sometimes it seems like an eternity with an accompaniment of cursing. I trim the corners of the film with a corner-rounding device, it seems to help. I have heard you can lube the grooves of the reel with graphite (pencil lead) but never tried that.

 

[summicron1]

the difficulty with a curl is just one of the many reasons I abandoned the plastic ratchet-type reels many moons ago -- stainless steel is so vastly easier once you learn how.

Another problem? The plastic reels have to be bone dry -- and i do mean bone dry -- to avoid binding. Even a bit of perspiration on the edge of the film from your frustrated hands trying to get the damn stuff started is enough to screw the pooch.

 

[Vaughn]

My experience with 120 has been with SS reels -- since 1977. Hewes are the nicest ones.

Some folks use Photo-flo while the film is still on the plastic reels. Several people have found that the reels need a good cleaning if this is done, as the photo-flo can gum-up the works (I have always taken the film off the SS reels).

"Screw the pooch" - a fine phase, one I hear often in our weekly bocce games...

 

[MattKing]

The AP/Samigon/Arista Premium clone reels that fit the Paterson tanks are another possibility - the ones with the wider entrance flanges. I use them mostly now.
But a dark room at night instead of the changing bag is still my recommendation.

 

[Paul Howell]

I use Paterson or my old Yankee for 35mm, when possible I use SS for 120.

 

[jay moussy]

Very limited experience, here, but I once read about using a thin card stock '"ramp" (film width x 3"), inserted into the reel start grooves,. The film slides over that, into the grooves.

I made one, used it once for a problem roll, and it made a lot of sense.
I keep it handy just in case.
That does not solve the film behaving badly mid-way though!

 

[removedacct1]

I gave up Patterson reels in 1992 and have used steel reels ever since. Perhaps a bit trickier to learn at first, but they are much easier to use once you're familiar with them.

 

[braxus]

I learned on stainless steel back in my high school and college days. So Im used to using those. Only thing with them, again with 120, is the film can touch in spots, causing a damaged frame. So that's not perfect either.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

I’ve used Paterson and SS reels. Paterson reels have to be absolutely dry, or you’ll have problems. I don’t think the curl should matter, as long as you’re loading the film emulsion side in. I prefer stainless, myself, which take more practice at first, but once you’ve got it, you’ve got it.

 

[Dusty Negative]

Hewes all the way. I’ve honestly never understood the suggestion that Pattersons were easier — I find them very frustrating for all the reasons mentioned here.

 

[ParkerSmithPhoto]

Stainless. Easier loading, much better agitation.

 

[Helge]

It is hard with only a little practice. Something like a linear funnel that would come off, when you where ready to load the roll into the tank, would make sense

My tactic is to load one edge of the film into the first few millimeters of the start of the spiral, and then load the other side, while holding the first edge in place with your hand.
Then carefully pull it the rest of the way, and make sure it's locked with a tuck in the opposite direction.

If you do get stuck, don't panic. Don't force a whole turn, to see if it will work. Make very small micro turns to nudge the film over the slightly moist or rough spot.
Works ninety percent of the time.

I usually hold the roll between my little fingers so it will easily turn, keeping the intake of the spiral pointing down towards the roll.
And I rip of the first part of the paper that is the leader, so it won't get confused with film and so the paper will start a natural back curl.

Steel spirals are hell. There is a reason Patterson tanks where invented and popularised.
If you keep the reels completely dry and follow a routine, there is no faster and surer way of developing at home.

 

[johnwwyatt]

I slightly clip the corners of the leading end of the film if it is old and curling a lot. It helps the film from catching later in the reel.

 

[braxus]

I just order 2 of the Arista Premium plastic reels. They seem to have a guide for loading the film into, and I can reuse my Paterson tanks. So I'll try this. I guess I'll just have some spare reels now.

 

[radiant]

I always use AP reels on 120 film in Paterson tanks. Loading curled 120 film (basically Kodak films) to Paterson reels is really PITA. I agree. But glad there are AP reels available. I really wonder why Paterson have not added such "leader" thing to their reels.

 

[Helge]

If you pull the film completely off the spool (not really possible in a dark bag), it can also be very helpful to use the sticky tape at the start of the roll to stiffen one end of the film.
Carefully peel off the tape from the paper and fold it over the film. That makes loading much easier.

 

[Don_ih]

I load the film emulsion-side out. I clip the corners and also bend a hard fold in the first 1/4 inch of film - folded in toward the centre of the spiral. That makes the leading edge straight (it's not left folded over - the crease is enough to eliminate the curl for the leading part of the film strip. I use Jobo reels and there's a spot in them where the corner of the film will always catch - it's sometimes necessary to back it off a little and try to advance again. I have loaded 60-year-old film that way (not that it developed particularly well....).

 

[NB23]

Supposedly, my stance on stand development, plastic reels and digital photography being art, makes me a troll, according to some. But I cannot care, and so I’ll say it again: plastic reels have no place in a darkroom.

 

[Huss]

I just order 2 of the Arista Premium plastic reels. They seem to have a guide for loading the film into, and I can reuse my Paterson tanks. So I'll try this. I guess I'll just have some spare reels now.

Been using those with zero issues. Also been using photoflo with zero issues. Just rinse and let dry when done.
The guides really help, but I haven't use reels without them so don't know how bad old timers have had it.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The AP/Samigon/Arista Premium clone reels that fit the Paterson tanks are another possibility - the ones with the wider entrance flanges. I use them mostly now.
But a dark room at night instead of the changing bag is still my recommendation.

I slightly clip the corners of the leading end of the film if it is old and curling a lot. It helps the film from catching later in the reel.

If you pull the film completely off the spool (not really possible in a dark bag), it can also be very helpful to use the sticky tape at the start of the roll to stiffen one end of the film.


For Jobo reels and Hewes reels: Fold over the tape and clip the corners of the film.

 

[Michael Firstlight]

It's usually the sharp corners that bind. As someone said, clip them. Here's a fool-proof inexpensive tool to quickly round them off in the dark: https://www.ebay.com/itm/273955105393

 

[awty]

It's usually the sharp corners that bind. As someone said, clip them. Here's a fool-proof inexpensive tool to quickly round them off in the dark: https://www.ebay.com/itm/273955105393

That is a great little device.
I hate it when I forget to put the scissor in the change bag.
Paterson are easy compared to the Jobos, they have nothing to grab the film and feed why you twist. If you let go it just drops out again.