That is interesting. I doubt he built mine unless he was the original builder for Fred Picker. I think not long after I got mine they changed builders. I thought the new version was somehow related to Deardorff cameras but that is a vague memory from many years ago.Mr. Richard T. Ritter, the actual builder of many of the Zone VI cameras, is still active. He built a gorgeous Graflok back for my Zone VI 4x5, and he DOES make a relatively-light 8x10. He could likely refurbish your Zone VI 8x10 since he probably built it!
Yes I think it is time for that for sure. Also I could dismantle and clean and lube my Bogen tripod. I used to use a wooden Zone 6 tripod but twice I came to the studio and found the tripod collapsed and my camera broken on the floor. Both times I rebuilt it with yellow wood glue. The camera is and has always been a PIA to set up and put in zero position. It is just a crappy camera. However I think of spending a few thousand on it and I think.. maybe I should spend that on film and palladium instead. Look at the PIA as just my cross to bear.What about some rehab of the old Zone VI? Some strategic nylon washers to help the knobs bite down on the other metal parts more?
I'm pretty sure that only a Chamonix or an Intrepid will help you save any worthwhile weight.
That is interesting. I doubt he built mine unless he was the original builder for Fred Picker. I think not long after I got mine they changed builders. I thought the new version was somehow related to Deardorff cameras but that is a vague memory from many years ago.
I doubt if I'm going to answer your question in this posting but let me try. For years I ran "Big Camera Workshops", I taught large format across Canada and was a distributor for a number of brands. The workshops were based on the Zone VI 4x5 and I owned six of them for students to use. However I used an Ebony SV810 myself and can understand why you would only want to shoot 810. I never should have sold the Ebony 810 but I did.
Before that I used a Deardorff and then a Wisner. The Ebony was new but was way ahead of either of the other brands.
The SV810 is expensive (triple bed), but they also made a RW810 (double bed) which was less costly and rather popular from a sales point of view. Maybe you can find a RW810 on ebay or somewhere, it would be my best suggestion.
-Rob Skeoch.
I found one on ebay.... $14,000.00
That is interesting. I doubt he built mine unless he was the original builder for Fred Picker. I think not long after I got mine they changed builders. I thought the new version was somehow related to Deardorff cameras but that is a vague memory from many years ago.
If you need to hike with it, very rigid yet lightweight 8x10 folders can be obtained, but at a steep price, unless you are lucky enough to encounter a good deal on a used one. I've used a Phillips 8X10 almost from its inception (I own serial no.9), and still hike around with it at age 75. Part of the secret is a good external frame backpack and serious tripod choices. Never compromise tripod quality or stability. I don't use any tripod head; the camera rests directly atop the tripod platform itself for maximum rigidity.
I've seen the Intrepid mentioned a couple of times. It is indeed lightweight, and that's a distinct advantage over other cameras. It's the reason I got it to complement the Sinar. However, it's also a downright rickety affair. Using it with 'heavy' lenses (think your average 300/5.6, let alone bigger) makes manipulation of the front standard cumbersome and it's challenging to make precise movements - let alone do them smoothly.
It's lightweight.
It's cheap.
It's not precise or rigid.
Picky any two from the list...
Have you consulted Omer, the owner of CatLabs? He is a genius (really), sells only film gear, and is one of the best small-business owners I've had the privilege of knowing.
Everything else about it screams "compromise". (Which is not to say I don't appreciate the benefits it offers)
I have to assume this is extreme sarcasm.
I have used this early version Zone VI 8x10 for about 40 years. I have shot thousands of negs with it. However I have always hated it. It is heavy and it fights me and I can't trust the control knobs to hold anything securely. When I go to cock my lens I am liable to change the tilt of the front. Changing from horizontal to vertical back is very persnickety and fiddly. The focus gets easily out of track. Basically nothing about this camera is a joy to use. It just sucks. I have stuck with it all these years because I never had a lot of money and always there are more necessary things demanding my money so I just put up with it. Now however I am getting pretty old and the struggle to use this camera is getting to be more than I can deal with. Not to mention the struggle I have with this old heavy Bogen tripod. Today going from a low horizontal looking down camera position to a 5 feet up vertical position looking over a table top took me more than 30 minutes and I needed to take a long break after during which I am writing this post.
I am wondering what is the best no frills sort of light weight 8x10 with secure dependable controls. My Z6 is a wooden flat bed.. I wonder if I should think about a rail.
I am not ready to stop making new work maybe a better easier camera would keep me working longer.
Any advice?
I was never happy with Deardorffs because they didn't have "witness marks" showing the neutral positions.What I've always hankered for (but never handled) is a Deardorff -- but I don't know enough about them to make a recommendation.
I hope no one gets disgusted with me but I have made the decision to seriously try to revamp this old camera and fix its issues. This morning I decided to change lens and could not get the brackets pulled away enough to let go of the lens board. After some anger and choice words I started to examine what the f was wrong and realized I needed to loosen the screws that hold the bracket. A very quick slight loosening and the damn thing works like a charm. Here is something to remember, wooden cameras are made out of wood. High humidity of Summer makes wood swell up. Swollen wood makes screws get tighter. Now take the camera apart and wax the rail, put in some sort of stop so the front and rear standards don't roll off the rail. Figure out some way to make the tilt knobs more secure. That is the plan for now..
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