First, "real sensitivity" is determined by the ISO standard and not what you think looks best. You are free to think E100 shot at EI 80 looks best, but that has nothing to do with real sensitivity.
Film-Niko, What is relevant for me and should be for the great majority of users here is to trust KODAK.
One of the several reasons why Kodak's slide films sales went south in the 90ies
, and why Fufilm became market leader in that segment.
I have several cameras and external light meters which give me perfect results in ISO standards with films from all manufacturers.
E.g. I get perfect results at EI 100 with former E100G, E100VS, Elitechrome 100.
And also with Provia 100F, Astia 100F, Sensia III, and Provia 400X at EI 400.
If my meters or my metering technique would be wrong as you claim, it would be impossible to get all the above mentioned results.
Period.
The reason was Velvia.
Wow. You go back a long way. With the exception of Provia 100F, all of those slide films were discontinued 2010-13. I assume you are using the same cameras and meters now that you were using a decade ago to run your current tests.
Yes, 1/3 stops increments both for shutter speeds and lenses.Query: do your cameras and lenses allow you to set shutter speed and aperture in 1/3 stop or finer increments.
I check my equipment regularly.
And I have used these films (at that time and currently, using frozen stock of the discontinued films) with e.g. the F5, F100, and double checked with Canon EOS 1V, EOS 3 and Minolta Dynax 7 from friends.
Yes, 1/3 stops increments both for shutter speeds and lenses.
First, "real sensitivity" is determined by the ISO standard and not what you think looks best. You are free to think E100 shot at EI 80 looks best, but that has nothing to do with real sensitivity.
Second, what are your criteria for who qualifies as an "experienced user", and how many "experienced users" do you think constitutes a "significant number" of "experienced users"? How did you determine whatever you think is a significant number of whatever you think are experienced users think E100 looks best when shot at EI 80? Did you actually vet the experience of the "experienced users" on social media? Have you ever seen any of these "experienced users'" E100 slides shot at EI 80?
It seems to me you are relying on the logical fallacies of appeal to authority (argumentum ab auctoritate) and the bandwagon fallacy (argumentum ad populum) to support your argument. Use of logic fallacies render your argument invalid, so I would stick with just saying you think E100 look best when shot at EI 80. You really don't need to say more. Adding arguments based on specious reasoning erodes your credibility.
A bit of history: way back when before there was the internet and social media, slide shooters would frequently underexpose slide film by 1/3 stop to get better saturation and avoid blowing out highlights. It was a tip they read in Popular Photography magazine or wherever. They never said that the "real sensitivity" of Ektachome 64 was 50; they just said E64 looked better underexposed by 1/3 stop. Just an observation of the then and now.
Why would I trust you and not KODAK when I get good results? We have different tastes
Ohhh Panther, the X version was my favorite slide of the time!
Because Kodak has done more scientific tests for decades than you would do by the seat of your pants is you lived a 1,000 years.
A lot of things have changed. Once real slide shows were abundant; now you can't even find a lab which will mount slides.
Once many landscape photographers shot 4x5 for sake of publishable stock photographs;
...now most people are content with viewing color images over the web, with little concern for accuracy.
Others like me shot various 4X5 and 8X10 chrome films for sake of Cibachrome prints.
At that kind of effort in the wilderness, and expenditure in dollars, one doesn't gamble by guessing or listening to rumors.
And you rarely have the luxury to bracket anything; the first exposure has to count.
Underexposing E6 products a little bit might have make them look better projected or over a bright light box, but also makes them harder to reproduce in print or publication fashion, especially so with Velvia, which is very high contrast to begin with. People need to state their objectives before blurting out this and that.
And those of us who of necessity had to control the variables ourselves very tightly, and had the instrumentation to do so, can appreciate the tremendous level of manufacturing quality control offered by both Fuji and Kodak for decades. They know what they are doing.
If Kodak has had financial troubles, that had more to do with bean counters and egotistical management types who did not rise up through the ranks of actual manufacturing skills, but were dropped into the top from unrelated backgrounds. That kind of thing was a plague in the 90's and early 2000's, and crippled many previously strong manufacturing corporations, not just Kodak.
But since this is all being debated on what is supposedly the Color Darkroom section, just how many of you are actually doing that, and printing your chromes in the darkroom, or in the past have done so, one way or another? It can make a huge difference with respect to how such opinions are formed in the first place.
Yes, I used to project slides. Then I stopped projecting and started printing. That was in the 1980s.
I am surprised Velvia 50 is really an option. I checked at B&H and it is $33.99/roll and is out of stock. Ektachrome is $21.99 and is in stock. Isn't Fujifilm's modus operandi to raise prices and limit supply, and then discontinue the film because of a lack of demand?
How do we explain Fuji's decision to bring back Acros 100?
Before the discontinuation announcement, Acros was a fairly cheap film. After the announcement, prices skyrocketed. Whatever stock was left sold for far more than what it normally did. So, perhaps Fuji had second thoughts and decided to relaunch it at a much higher price point.
I shoot at box speed for all my films because between errors with my exposure calculations and shutter errors, there's no sure way to know anything of what I might get. Sometimes I'll add a little for negative film and subtract a little for chromes. When I shoot MF I'll bracket 1/2 stop. I take more chances with 4x5 and just shoot one shot.
Given the cost of slide film, wouldn't you be better off getting the cameras CLA'd and the light meters calibrated?
But you offer a good solution. I wonder if LF lens' shutters can actually be adjusted? Likewise Mamiya RB67 lenses?
CLA'd
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