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How well does HC-110 Equivlilent work??

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chip j

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I hate to get a bottle of HC-110 because I'll never use 30 gal of developer. The Equivilent makes 2 gal. I'm particulary concerned about base fog w/expired film. Thanks
 
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You don't have to mix the entire "stock" HC110 solution, you can measure smaller amounts out of the syrupy concentrate. I use HC110 in the 1+63 dilution as a one-shot developer. I measure the small amounts with a medicine syringe. Even the ratio isn't too critical, as long as you work out a process and be consistent with it. The Kodak concentrate unofficially lasts for years as long as you keep water away from it.
 
I hate to get a bottle of HC-110 because I'll never use 30 gal of developer. The Equivilent makes 2 gal. I'm particulary concerned about base fog w/expired film. Thanks
I'd be worried about base fog with expired film irrespective of developer.
 
Also -- the HC110 comes in a one liter bottle -- so at Dilution B (1+31) it makes 32 liters. That's not 30 gallons -- although it would still fill quite a pile of soda bottles! :errm:
 
I've been using Freestyle's HC-110 clone LegacyPro L110 and been happy with the results. It comes in a smaller bottle, and is very easy to mix. There's another thread about the developer here, and you can see more examples on my Flickr. Unfortunately, can't comment on base fog for expired film.
 
All of the above. I have a bottle that was given to me and I have no idea how old it is; still going strong. You don't need to mix the entire working solution and probably most people don't. What DW said about using a syringe is spot on. The beauty of this dev is that you don't have to go out and shoot multiple rolls of film just to use up the dev before it goes bad. The occasional darkroom user can mix in small amount and not worry. It's a very flexible, convenient developer.
 
Yes. FPP has what looks like the same thing, too--same amount, same price.
 
One of HC110's characteristics is that it comes as a solution in propylene glycol (or something equivalent). That's what gives it it's famed longevity and also results in its thick viscosity.

The Legacy Pro version does not have the same viscosity and likely is not mixed with propylene glycol. So while the development action might be the same, the longevity may not.
 
I use XTOL. I love it.

Having said that there is nothing more foolproof than HC-110. It lasts forever, is easy to use. You can use it one shot ,replenish, reuse and toss. Great developer .I had a gallon bottle of dilution B that I replenished for well over 2 years. I would buy the real stuff that Kodak sells that's made in Germany. If you are worried about shelf life of the concentrate, blow out the air with butane or propane, just be careful you don't get killed. Even without any precautions as mgb says it's a glycol solution that prevents oxidation .
Best Mike
 
All of the above. I have a bottle that was given to me and I have no idea how old it is; still going strong. You don't need to mix the entire working solution and probably most people don't. What DW said about using a syringe is spot on. The beauty of this dev is that you don't have to go out and shoot multiple rolls of film just to use up the dev before it goes bad. The occasional darkroom user can mix in small amount and not worry. It's a very flexible, convenient developer.

Agreed! Use a syringe to measure syrup. I have a bottle of HC-110 that I've kept refrigerated for 20 years, and it's still fine. Yes, you can refrigerate it to make it last even longer.
Mark Overton
 
I've used the legacy pro clone. it's fine, and is less viscous than real hc110, so a little easier to mix. I'm currently about half way through a liter bottle of real hc-110. I mix, usually 1:50 direct from syrup. The goo keeps forever. Turns kind of a scary brown, like Rodinal does, but keeps working fine. I'm usually measuring about 10cc of the goo. I use a 50cc graduate. Add about 20 or 30 cc of water first, then the syrup straight from the bottle. I seem to get less of a clump of goo at the bottom of the graduate that way. I'm happy, it's my go-to for fast films. I tend to use Rodinal for slower films. But in all honesty, don't have a good reason for that sort of split. I shoot multiple formats, so if I want less grain, I usually use bigger film.

Have fun! Don't fret developer choice much. I think every commercial product that is still on the market is pretty good. Good enough that it's not the main thing that needs improvement for my photos to be great. :smile:
 
DON'T buy the substitute--totally different stuff! I suspect it's hc-110 half-diluted. It does NOT work where a STRONG developer is needed. Even undiluted it is not as strong as diluted 110 syrup. If the original is available USE IT--do NOT substitute. It's the BEST stuff there is! Buy it--keep the demand high, PLEASE--for me--I want people to buy it so that I can continue to buy it in the future. Keep the market running!

No kidding though--the substitute is way weaker in the "stronger" "dilutions"...I suspect that everyone uses dilution b and they found that at 1:31 you can cut corners...you cannot at dilution a! be forewarned.

however if you do super dilute solutions--probably no difference, so go ahead since you'll only buy a 1 bottle anyways--but even at that--if you buy ONE bottle, then make it the RIGHT one! Yes...get the real stuff.
 
DON'T buy the substitute--totally different stuff! I suspect it's hc-110 half-diluted. It does NOT work where a STRONG developer is needed. Even undiluted it is not as strong as diluted 110 syrup. If the original is available USE IT--do NOT substitute. It's the BEST stuff there is! Buy it--keep the demand high, PLEASE--for me--I want people to buy it so that I can continue to buy it in the future. Keep the market running!

No kidding though--the substitute is way weaker in the "stronger" "dilutions"...I suspect that everyone uses dilution b and they found that at 1:31 you can cut corners...you cannot at dilution a! be forewarned.

however if you do super dilute solutions--probably no difference, so go ahead since you'll only buy a 1 bottle anyways--but even at that--if you buy ONE bottle, then make it the RIGHT one! Yes...get the real stuff.
 
Because of work considerations I have had to cut back on my darkroom volume. I had been using TMAX RS replenished and was happy with it. But as my volume has diminished it’s no longer viable. So today I re-opened a 3 or 4 year old bottle of the Legacy Pro L110 to run a snip test to see if it was any good (it was) and developed a test roll of Neopan 400 at dilution E. Happy to say it worked perfectly even though it is obviously not the Kodak version. I support johnelvis’ encouragement to buy real HC110 to support the product, but I wanted to add that the L110 at Freestyle works similarly and has a very long shelf life as a concentrate. It’s viscocity also makes it very easy to mix up.
 
Just found out on the web that Freestyle's L110 used to be Kentmere 110.
 
Just found out on the web that Freestyle's L110 used to be Kentmere 110.
What source on the web did you find this out from? I wasn't even aware that Kentmere made any developer when it was Kentmere. Now that it has been Ilford for quite a number of years then other than paper and film( the latter being devised by Ilford) I have seen no Kentmere developer . Thanks

pentaxuser
 
Yes. FPP has what looks like the same thing, too--same amount, same price.

I bought a bottle of the FPP juice, a few days ago, and was wondering if it was rebottled HC110 or a 3rd party brew.
 
The source was a thread where it was said that when Freestyle first started offering L110 they said it was Kentmere 110. If you google Kodak or Freestyle or Fpp 110 you should find it.
 
I have no idea if the Legacy Pro L110 is the same stuff or not, probably not since it is not as viscous. Since the Kodak stuff changed I'm not even sure it is the same stuff. According to the MSDS sheets both products use diethylene gycol but I see no mention of propylene glycol for either Legacy Pro L110 or Kodak HC110. Maybe they are the same thing but the CAS # is different.

However, I have been using it for 3 months now at the same dilutions I used to use with Kodak's version and it works just fine whether I am diluting 1+32 or 1+63 (my normal dilutions.)

Obviously I can't vouch for the longevity but I use it up fast enough that I doubt very much that it will matter. I am a little over half way through the bottle so it looks like the bottle will last for 6 or 7 months. However, if it does begin to show signs of weakening I will try to let everyone know.

For those of you who must use the Kodak stuff, it is also available.
 
There is only one HC-110 all the other claimants are not the same; Only the company that makes HC-110 for Kodak has the necessary special equipmemt to manufacture the real stuff,
 
There is only one HC-110 all the other claimants are not the same; Only the company that makes HC-110 for Kodak has the necessary special equipmemt to manufacture the real stuff,

HC-110 is made by a third party, not Kodak, so getting said equipment is not a big deal.
 
The source was a thread where it was said that when Freestyle first started offering L110 they said it was Kentmere 110. If you google Kodak or Freestyle or Fpp 110 you should find it.
Thanks, I wonder where Freestyle got this info from? I certainly cannot find any mention of Kentmere 110 on the U.K. Ilford site and I am a bit surprised that Kentmere should choose to call its own developer by a name so close to HC110. It may not infringe any intellectual/copyright laws but on a point of honour between companies I'd have thought that Kentmere would try and avoid being seen to be stepping on Kodak's toes and deliberately upsetting the neighbours. Isn't it a bit like Ilford making another T-grain film and calling it Ilford TMY :D

Has anyone else any info on the origins of Kentmere 110?

pentaxuser
 
HC-110 is made by a third party, not Kodak, so getting said equipment is not a big deal.

Some of the equipment is rather specialized so it is not just a matter of looking in a catalogue and saying I want one of these and one of those. Then too there is the price; You have to be a fairly large company to afford the outlay; Some of the equipment costs upwards of half a million dollars;
 
Some of the equipment is rather specialized so it is not just a matter of looking in a catalogue and saying I want one of these and one of those. Then too there is the price; You have to be a fairly large company to afford the outlay; Some of the equipment costs upwards of half a million dollars;

What component of HC-110 drives this cost?
 
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