How to shoot Ilford SFX 200 the most effectively?

[MattKing]

So with this in mind, how much should I bracket by?

I'd suggest that you look at the examples in the link I posted in post #69.
You will find that the more you do this, the more you will get a feel for when and how under what circumstances the levels of visible light - which the meter can see - and the levels of near-infrared light - which neither the meter nor your eye see very well - correspond.
And I second the recommendation for using an incident meter. If you don't have one of those, a reflected reading from a grey card or similar standard works as well.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Think I understand now, I wasn’t getting the IR part of the equation and it not been visible to the meter or human eye. So with this in mind, how much should I bracket by?


I hadn’t realised it was a rebranded Agfa film. So think I’ll probably start by rating it at 200 unfiltered, then adjust accordingly, depending on the filter in use. I’m thinking a bracket at plus and minus 2 stops. I’ll be scanning and inkjet printing by the way.

My experience ±0.5 f/stops to ±1.0 f/stop.

 

[Sirius Glass]

See:
www.digitaltruth.com/products/product_tests/infrared_film_004.php
www.digitaltruth.com/products/product_tests/infrared_film_004-2.php
www.digitaltruth.com/products/product_tests/infrared_film_005.php
www.digitaltruth.com/products/product_tests/infrared_film_010.php

 

[Helge]

Thanks for the answer on the use of the flashgun which was as I had anticipated but the main part of my post was my questions on exactly how you would proceed in the scenes which you described in #76 covering open sun etc

Can I ask again what you do in those scenes from a baseline of EI 10?

Thanks

pentaxuser

I thought I explained that in the post. Is
It a trap?

For open sun I usually use the metering with no correction.
For a cloud across the sun, I subtract one or two stops.
In overcast weather it might be as much as three or four stops.
A powerful flash is actually helpful under such circumstances.
In a summer sunlit forrest there is a surprising amount of IR. Probably because the leaves diffuse and reflect IR. So you need only about one stop of compensation.

What is not clear?
It’s not an exact science as explained, but often a good guess.

I bracket about one stop on each side. But sometimes just one frame up or down if I have the feeling something could be tripping me up (direct sun, a sudden cloud across the sun etc.).

 

[pentaxuser]

Thanks. So 10 in in open sun; 5 or 3 in cloud across the sun; 1.5 or O.75 in overcast. I try not to assume that what I think a responder might mean is what he does mean Instead I try to ask for clarification when at all unsure

pentaxuser

 

[super_claret]

Ran a test roll of 35mm Rollei Infrared 400 through my Contax RX II and rated it at 400 box speed. I used a Kood IR720 filter and took a TTL reading before attaching the filter and one after attaching, which was 5 stops difference. I decided, just to satisfy my own curiosity, to use the camera spot meter and meter off the sunlit grass.

I’m going to be using 510 Pyro 1:100 in a Jobo CPE2 but can’t find any dev time for that combo. Anyone got any idea where I should start? I know that some say that it is Agfa Aviphot 200 film rebranded but any advice would be appreciated

 

[super_claret]

See:
www.digitaltruth.com/products/product_tests/infrared_film_004.php
www.digitaltruth.com/products/product_tests/infrared_film_004-2.php
www.digitaltruth.com/products/product_tests/infrared_film_005.php
www.digitaltruth.com/products/product_tests/infrared_film_010.php

Sirius, what dev times do you use for Rollei Infrared 400, rated at 400 and developed in Jobo CPE2. I’m going to be using 510 Pyro 1:100.

 

[pentaxuser]

The Massive Development Chart(MDC) has a time of 22 mins in 510 Pyro at 1+100 using semi-stand development

pentaxuser

 

[Sirius Glass]

Sirius, what dev times do you use for Rollei Infrared 400, rated at 400 and developed in Jobo CPE2. I’m going to be using 510 Pyro 1:100.

Rollei Infrared 400 @ ISO 400 replenished XTOL in the Jobo CPP2 was 6 minutes at 72°F with rewashing.

 

[super_claret]

Rollei Infrared 400 @ ISO 400 replenished XTOL in the Jobo CPP2 was 6 minutes at 72°F with rewashing.

Any idea how that would translate to 510 Pyro 1:100 at 21C. The nearest I can find in a Jobo is 7.5 mins at 21C but that’s in Pyrocat HD 1+1+50 and when film rated at 200

 

[Sirius Glass]

Any idea how that would translate to 510 Pyro 1:100 at 21C. The nearest I can find in a Jobo is 7.5 mins at 21C but that’s in Pyrocat HD 1+1+50 and when film rated at 200

I have not found a good way to translate replenished XTOL rotary process time and temperatures to Pyrocat HD [1:1:1:100 @Iso 400 TRI-X or Rollei IR 400]. When I used the Massive Development Chart, which I find not to be reliable, all the Kodak TriX 400 @Iso 400 and Rollei IR 400 @Iso 400 were underdeveloped and I had to experiment extending the development times.