The 89B is the equivalent of the R72 which is the filter for a film like SFX 200 if you want an infrared effect of white foliage. The other filters will help to produce black skies but not really produce the full IR effect
Are you hoping to get this look when you say you want the definitions of greens to be prominent? If you only want to lighten green foliage to make it different from the brown bark of the trees then a green filter will achieve this
If you are seeking the IR effect then you are right that the long exposure will cause motion to show on the film as blur
pentaxuser
What I'm hoping to get is more definition meaning you can see the individual leaves distinctly. Increasing the contrast of shadowing.
I'm experienced with pinhole and know the rules but I enjoy it the most. Ideally I find the best way to shoot on the trail.
I'm getting the opinion that 25 won't do the trick. So I'll be looking for the darker one next and try both out, then get an objective result
Red25 should work well I use it often with Rollei IR 400 film. the R25 and 720 [89] are respectively stronger. Start with the R25.
I did some pinhole work with SFX many years ago, using the R72 filter, and exposures were in the range of 8-15 minutes in blazing bright sunlight.
wow, that's not a very good reciprocity index I would say. what was your f-stop and focal distance and size of the negative?
That was using the Zero Image 6x9 camera (120 roll film format, 6x9cm negative), which has an aperture of f235 (supposedly)
It is important to understand that the purpose of the R72 filter is to block out almost all the visible light.
And it is equally important to understand that the remaining films with sensitivity into the near infrared - such as Ilford SFX - are mostly sensitive to visible light, and aren't all that sensitive into the infrared.
I shoot Ilford SFX 200 behind a #25 red filter at E.I. = 25 and at E.I. = 6 behind a IR720 filter.
The reciprocity failure correction number given by Ilford is 1.43. This means for measured exposure times more than a couple of seconds
take that measured exposure time to the power 1.43 to get the corrected time.
Good luck.
Ahh I skimmed over the Zero Image part. Yeah their 6x9's are in my opinion not wide enough and why I overlooked them this time around. Exposure time increases with focal distance and in a pinhole it's really a big difference. I just bought an RSS 6x9 which has about I think 22 mm focal length so that's real real wide, and distance closer to film so exposure time much less because f stop less. I prefer wide angle though it fits my shooting style the most, especially with pinhole.
I found that the difference in results between a standard dark red #25 and an R72 filter used with either SFX or Rollei IR films was minimal.
Does that mean that you found the normal red filter i.e. the 25 to give you the full or at least nearly full "Wood effect" of white foliage with that wispy look or was it just a lightening of green foliage and black skies in full sun conditions? The latter was all I could ever manage with a red 25
Thanks
pentaxuser
To achieve the most pronounced "wood effect", the amount of exposure is more critical than your choice of filters. As others have explained, overexposure increases the "dreamy" IR effects you can get from SFX. Its not quite as easy to achieve as it is with the Rollei IR, but very close.
Thanks So instead of using the filter factor of the 25 say 3 stops or an EI of 25 in the case of SFX 200, you overexpose by reducing the EI to what speed, 12 or 6. or lower? In effect if this works as well as an R72 filter then what you are doing is using the same speed as you would with an R72 but in this case with a red 25?
Clearly this saves the expense of an R72 but I had always thought that overexposure per se wasn't enough as the R72 literally blocked wavelengths of light that the red 25 just wasn't capable of
So does the R72 do anything at all that the red 25 does not provided it is used at the correct number of stops?
Thanks
pentaxuser
To achieve the most pronounced "wood effect", the amount of exposure is more critical than your choice of filters. As others have explained, overexposure increases the "dreamy" IR effects you can get from SFX. Its not quite as easy to achieve as it is with the Rollei IR, but very close.
Thanks So instead of using the filter factor of the 25 say 3 stops or an EI of 25 in the case of SFX 200, you overexpose by reducing the EI to what speed, 12 or 6. or lower? In effect if this works as well as an R72 filter then what you are doing is using the same speed as you would with an R72 but in this case with a red 25?
Clearly this saves the expense of an R72 but I had always thought that overexposure per se wasn't enough as the R72 literally blocked wavelengths of light that the red 25 just wasn't capable of
So does the R72 do anything at all that the red 25 does not provided it is used at the correct number of stops?
Thanks
pentaxuser
I believe that the 720 filter is mostly beyond the reach of the SFX 200 and you will be disappointed with the results. Look on line for tests of the various IR films with the same scene with different filters. Also look at the data sheet below for SFX 200 and its spectrum response.
Ilford SFX is a near infrared film, not a true infrared film if my memory serves me correctly. I used to shoot it with a Red 25 and I would dead recon the exposures, not rely on the cameras meter. An ISO of 25 sounds about right with the Red 25. Been a loooong time since I've used it though.
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