How to check bellows for light leaks?

[jernejk]

I found what seems a very nice camera somewhere on the net; the seller seems to be a collector rather than a photographer and he haven't used the camera it seems.

He's too far for me to drive there and check the camera myself. Assuming he's honest, how could he check for bellow leaks (without assembling the whole camera)? Obviously there's a risk, but let's assume he's fair.

Also, if anybody would be kind enough to look at the photos and give their judgment, please PM me so I send you the links.

Thanks

 

[Ian Grant]

Put a torch insde the camera in a darkened room. In one case where there was an undetectable light leak showing up on negatives I used a small flash gun, I could still only just spot the leak which was where the bellows attached to the camera body.

Ian

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Put a torch insde the camera in a darkened room...

Ian

Or, if you're American, use a flashlight (bare-bulb with the reflector removed works best). Open flames and bellows don't usually get along well.

Doremus

 

[jernejk]

Just don't confuse it with Fleshlight(TM)

 

[R.Gould]

Pen light type torch (Or Flashlight) works best, you can shine it around inside the bellows and get into all the corners, another way is, again using a torch, sit the film plane with the door open, on top of a torch, you should see any light leaks, pay special attention to the side hidden by the folders door, as that can be difficult to see, If all else fails, use a small flash gun, small enough if possible to fit inside the camera,(I have a tiny old National panasonic that I keep for just this purpose) and fire it two or three times, in a dark room it will show any leaks,
Richard

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Modern LED flashlights are very bright, but small.
Turning room light off and turning flashlight inside off the bellows isn't enough for me. I'm trying to bring light to every part of the bellows as close as possible.
But. If holes are bad, you'll see it without flash light just by inspecting outside of the bellows.

 

[mfagan]

I used a bright chemical light stick which almost surrounds itself with light. Put the lens back on and turned off the lights in the darkroom, then cranked the bellows out and in after my eyes were dark adapted. Light stick should be placed so it won't poke the bellows, of course -- such as placing it on the film plane with lens up.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Somehow mount a light bulb inside the camera and inspect it from the outside in a dark room.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Put a roll of fresh film in the camera. Take it out in bright daylight and shoot the roll but take your time doing it. Walk around a lot. Develop the film and print the negatives. When you check the negatives, if there are light leaks they will usually show up.

 

[Alan Gales]

I first extend the bellows out fully. Then in a darkened room I slowly move a flashlight down the bellows on all four sides and corners. If it has pinholes, they usually show up in the corners.

What's the problem with assembling the camera? It's easy!

 

[bkarasek]

First thing that I do when I want to check for leaks, is to use expired film for that particular format, use the stuff that you wouldn't use for your photography, I have a 100 box of 4x5 Royal Pan which serves admirably, I sit the camera out in the sunlight, an hour for each side facing the sun, bellows extended, aperture open. If the developed negative shows no light leaks. Then you're OK. But if the negs show leaks, then I use a nightlight with a 7w bulb, and attach it to an extension, extend the bellows and insert the nightlight inside the bellows at the front behind the lends board, and have the extension exiting through the slot where you put your film holder, cover slot to block the light output there and then slowly drag the night light along the bellows at the bottom back to the film back, flip the camera and repeat the process with side of the bellows, flip the camera .... anyway, do all four sides with the dragging nightlight. I use a piece of chalk to mark where the leak is, otherwise you'll never find the really small pinholes with the lights on. And as someone already mention.... give your eyes a chance to adjust to the dark and you'll see the pinholes as they appear. And check any repairs that may have been made already..... some tapes lose their adhesion over time.

Good Luck!

 

[shutterfinger]

The old school test procedure was to put a 40 watt appliance bulb in a portable lamp socket and put it inside the bellows in total darkness and move it along the length of the bellows observing for rays of light. An appliance bulb is clear and will get hot quickly. A CLF will work but it too will get hot. A hot bulb against a bellows lining equals a bellows repair.

Several years ago I purchased a used Sinar F1 from a local Pro Camera store. I extended the bellows fully, inserted a loaded film holder and pulled the darkslide, took it outside and turned it so that every side and angle was exposed to the bright afternoon sun for several minutes, processed the film and it was blank, no leaks!. The first exposures I made with the Sinar had multiple secondary exposures. A retest of the bellows in total darkness with a Mini Mag set to spot at 2 inches revealed every pleat fold at the corners were weak or had a pin hole. Weak spots appear as pale to bright yellow spots, pin holes are white. I no longer trust or use direct sunlight to check for leaks. I have a AAA cell LED flashlight that I use on small bellows that the 2 AA Mini Mag will not fit into.

A LED bulb in a portable socket should work as well as any light bulb in a portable socket. Portable socket example: http://www.amazon.com/Woods-2-Gauge...9198658&sr=8-1&keywords=portable+light+socket

 

[karl]

A flash really is the best bet.