The basic idea, is that I wanted to merge (reversal) Bath with a color developer, I don't want to go to the manual re-exposure step or via a (reversal) Bath solution because he mostly suffers from sudden death ,,,Several decades ago color couplers were some oily substances, and water based color developers had difficulties getting to these couplers. The Benzyl Alcohol contained in color developers back then enabled contact between color developer and color couplers.
This problem was solved several decades ago, therefore E-6 films do not require Benzyl alcohol. Don't waste further thoughts or money on this compound.
Since you're using this developer only on E-6 films, there's no need for the Benzyl Alcohol, which was necessary only with the dye couplers in E-3 and E-4 films. I'd be much more concerned about wrong developing agent or wrong pH for modern film if you start with an E-4 color developer.
My brother ,,, the elements of isolation that they propose always make people frustrated and desperate and perhaps one day they will cause us to commit suicide ,,OP will benefit if somebody suggests an easily available sequestering agent that is known to work well with Tin chloride. Would Sodium hexametaphosphate or Citric acid do the job?
- I suspect that some laboratories are still dependent on the process (E4) in order to develop transparency films that are primarily designed according to the process (E6), so I suspect that the success rate of that process may be acceptable, and experience and testing is what Prove or deny that ,, let's try and see.
What do you mean by the symbol (OP)
I did not understand this symbol
@mohmad khatab: What reversal bath are you currently using? Is it Tin chloride? Tin chloride is unstable in solution as it undergoes hydrolysis. Apparently you can prevent this by putting small pieces of Tin into the solution. See this:
Labs that offer E-4 are much more likely to be serving a market for processing old film. It's fairly common, in countries that have had family photography for generations, to find film in an old camera, or unprocessed rolls in a box or drawer -- and if the film is older than the current process, you may be dependent on a lab offering an obsolete process if you want to attempt (in this case) a color slide as opposed to a black and white negative. In the United States, there is (or was, ten or fifteen years ago) a small sub-hobby of looking specifically for old cameras in thrift shops, yard sales, and such -- in search of film that might have been left in them for decades. I have personally processed black and white films that were fifty years old -- but black and white process hasn't really changed since before 1900, where there have been at least four color negative, and at least three color slide processes since the Second World War, and the new films don't work in the old process (and fairly often, the old films don't work in the new -- like C-22 Kodacolor in C-41).
The big difference between E-4 and C-22, as obsolete processes go, is that E-4 films were much less "birthdays and holidays" films, and much more "travel and professional" films, thus more likely to contain images where the color is important enough to spend the cost of an obsolete process.
My dear brother, Raghu,Whether or not metallic tin prevents the hydrolysis of Tin chloride, it seems to be a well-known remedy for oxidation.
"Tin(II) chloride is a strong reducing agent and is easily oxidized by atmospheric oxygen. Metallic tin is often added to solutions of SnCl2 to prevent this oxidation."
what is meant by a piece of tin ,, can we fold a tin sheet of that in the kitchen?
Yes, you're right ,Actual metallic tin.
The "tin foil" you have in the kitchen is actually aluminum (it may have been made of tin 150 years ago, but it's been aluminum since before I was born). When I was a kid, toothpaste came in tubes made of actual tin. Now they're plastic. Oil paints (like artists use) once came in tin tubes, but I'm pretty sure they're plastic as well. European solder is (or was, ten or so years ago) often 100% tin (because lead is banned from even electronic solder in Europe), though if you use solder for this, you need to get the kind that doesn't have a rosin core.
Finally I found itThe only formula I can find is CD of E-4 process, the predecessor of E-6, that includes the reversal agent and CD-3.
https://125px.com/docs/techpubs/kodak/cis111-E4_Forumulas.pdf (page 2)
You can and you should substitute Tertiary butylamine borane (highly toxic) with stannous chloride.
My Greek brotherLate reply, but I'll do it anyway... Light reexposure is perfectly fine and very reliable. It might be a bit boring, but that's all. It's not difficult, doesn't require specialised equipment and light sources and saves you from trying to source some chemicals and formulate a reversal bath, or fogging colour developer. I've been doing it for years for both E6 and BW slides and definitely have zero problems. Here's what I do after a proper wash from the previous step:
That's all.
- Keep the film on the typical Paterson, AP, Jobo, whatever reels. You certainly don't need clear plastic ones, nor remove it from the reel.
- Put your film in a bowl of water. It should be submerged. I use a white plastic bowl that previously had marmalade, works a treat for the purpose.
- Find a lamp. I happen to have an old tungsten 75W lamp in the shed where I process my film. It is more than capable for fogging film.
- Keep the bowl with film under the lamp at a distance of 20-30cm, distance is not critical. While it is there, spin it around for 2' from each side. After that, you're done. 2' is probably a lot, but won't hurt.
- Load the reel(s) in the tank and resume processing with the next step.
I feel some sadness ,,Since you're using this developer only on E-6 films, there's no need for the Benzyl Alcohol, which was necessary only with the dye couplers in E-3 and E-4 films. I'd be much more concerned about wrong developing agent or wrong pH for modern film if you start with an E-4 color developer.
Yes, I've been using the same 75W lamp for years and it has worked flawlessly for both E6 and BW slides. The film reel must be submerged in water while in the bowl/container/whatever you have handy. It's been years since my first tries, but IIRC without water you're running the risk of having irregular density marks on the film.My Greek brother
Come on, tell me the truth ,, I'm almost crazy.
With regard to the strength of the tungsten lamp.
Our British friend says it should be 1000 watts, while you say 75 watts is enough. I am really confused. The difference between the two numbers is huge and cannot be reconciled.
- When the film reel is placed in the white plate, must the plate have water or it is completely dry?
Third - Why did Kodak re-publish that document in the year 2000? There were no films at the time being produced according to the emulsion (E4).
I love Greece so muchYes, I've been using the same 75W lamp for years and it has worked flawlessly for both E6 and BW slides. The film reel must be submerged in water while in the bowl/container/whatever you have handy. It's been years since my first tries, but IIRC without water you're running the risk of having irregular density marks on the film.
I love India very much and eat chicken 65.There might have been a legal obligation requiring Kodak to support processing of such films for some decades. Just a guess.
Yes, few mm are fine, that's how I do. As long as it is completely submerged, you'll have no problems.I love Greece so much
- Should the water cover the reel completely, just a few millimeters above the reel level?
God bless youYes, few mm are fine, that's how I do. As long as it is completely submerged, you'll have no problems.
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