I prefer Reversal chemical bath, because it gives consistent and more reliable results, and the error rate for re-exposure is very small,Mohmad, why do you want to make life complicated by combining reversal bath with colour developer? Instead, have you considered using light fogging in place of chemical reversal bath as recommended by PE?
I am glad you no longer hate me.The Cinestill E-6 kit uses a self-reversing color developer, as do at least some of the other commercial E-6 kits. My understanding is that they include stannous chloride as the fogging agent, but the amount has to be just right. Tool little, you get thin slides; too much, and it can block developing action and produce thin or even blank slides. Which, to me, sounds like a good bit of testing.
Light exposure is generally specified to be enough to reach Dmax and then a good margin -- precisely to avoid the effects of lensing by water drops.
Will the Cetanos component work just as well as the original component?The only formula I can find is CD of E-4 process, the predecessor of E-6, that includes the reversal agent and CD-3.
https://125px.com/docs/techpubs/kodak/cis111-E4_Forumulas.pdf (page 2)
You can and you should substitute Tertiary butylamine borane (highly toxic) with stannous chloride.
It sounds like the stannous chloride has undergone hydrolysis. A way to prevent this is to have a few small pieces of tin metal in the bottle.
Your idea is really great, really great, and it works as a springboard.As I mentioned before, use tin chloride.The reversal agent of E-4 is highly toxic and was substituted by tin chloride in E-6.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E-4_process
Nevertheless, E-4 CD formula is very similar to published E-6 CD formulas without reversal agent. I would use an E-6 CD and test different tin chlorides additions. Find bellow a formula for E-6 CD.
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...arnig-longer-than-assumend.32721/#post-465873
I really apologize.I think it is a reasonable start.
By the way, current stand-alone reversal baths formulas I see for E-6 have tin chloride between 1.0 and 1.5 gr per liter.
Yes, dear friend ,, just as in the process developer’s (E4) recipeI'm curious to know how adding tin chloride to E6 colour developer would solve the sudden death problem? Are you counting on the sequestering agent present in the colour developer to prevent the hydrolysis of tin chloride?
That is the big problem.Here: (1.0 gr per liter)
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/e-6-color-reversal-development-fuji-recipes.34588/
And here: (1.5 gr per liter)
https://rec.photo.film-labs.narkive.com/jxqjJFhS/e6-chemical-formulas
I have never tried anything like this, so no personal experience to share, but I don't think you will have any "sudden death" if the solution is prepared for use at once.
That is the big problem.
This is a formula that is difficult to obtain for all of these elements. I do not think it is intended for one use only.
This is not the solution I want.I don't think either, I was referring to your idea of removing the sequestrant from the formula (in this case
Nitrilo-N,N,N-trimethylene phosphonic acid pentasodium salt) and replace it with tin particles. I find it risky, specially if you plan to sell the product, without being totally sure it really works.
Late reply, but I'll do it anyway... Light reexposure is perfectly fine and very reliable. It might be a bit boring, but that's all. It's not difficult, doesn't require specialised equipment and light sources and saves you from trying to source some chemicals and formulate a reversal bath, or fogging colour developer. I've been doing it for years for both E6 and BW slides and definitely have zero problems. Here's what I do after a proper wash from the previous step:I prefer Reversal chemical bath, because it gives consistent and more reliable results, and the error rate for re-exposure is very small, ...
Thank you very much for the reply ,,Late reply, but I'll do it anyway... Light reexposure is perfectly fine and very reliable. It might be a bit boring, but that's all. It's not difficult, doesn't require specialised equipment and light sources and saves you from trying to source some chemicals and formulate a reversal bath, or fogging colour developer. I've been doing it for years for both E6 and BW slides and definitely have zero problems. Here's what I do after a proper wash from the previous step:
That's all.
- Keep the film on the typical Paterson, AP, Jobo, whatever reels. You certainly don't need clear plastic ones, nor remove it from the reel.
- Put your film in a bowl of water. It should be submerged. I use a white plastic bowl that previously had marmalade, works a treat for the purpose.
- Find a lamp. I happen to have an old tungsten 75W lamp in the shed where I process my film. It is more than capable for fogging film.
- Keep the bowl with film under the lamp at a distance of 20-30cm, distance is not critical. While it is there, spin it around for 2' from each side. After that, you're done. 2' is probably a lot, but won't hurt.
- Load the reel(s) in the tank and resume processing with the next step.
Thank you, dear sir.Benzyl alcohol was used long time ago to increase dye couplers activity, it is most probably not needed with modern films so you can ignore it. Find bellow a discussion about it.
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/c-22-recipe.104926/
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