How Many People Use A Hand-Held Meter?

[Ian Grant]

Like others I voted that I always use a hand held meter, mainly a Gossen Luna Pro (Lunasix 3) here in Turkey or a Capital (Soligor) Spotmeter which I've only just fixed. Back in the UK I use a Pentax Spotmeter V or a Gossen Luna Pro SBC.

However I've been testing the meter on my Yashicamat 124 and have found that it's consistently within half a stop of my Luna Pro so reliable, but I still carry a meter as I frequently have a 6x17 or 5x4 camera with me as well.

Ian

 

[Joe Grodis]

Call me old school or resistant to change, but my WESTON MASTER III has served me well and I continue to use it weekly.

 

[Ian Grant]

Call me old school or resistant to change, but my WESTON MASTER III has served me well and I continue to use it weekly.

You're lucky the cells on my Weston V & Euromaster died a long time ago or I'd still be using them.

Ian

 

[Adrian Twiss]

For all my MF and much of my 35mm work I use a sekonic spot meter.

 

[Anton Lukoszevieze]

Gossen Luna Pro (Lunasix 3) for film (I love it).
Brain for wet-plate.

 

[Ektagraphic]

Thanks to everyone that voted/replied. The results were pretty much what I thought they would be.
Patrick

 

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Sekonic L-508. Use it for all the cameras.

Jim

 

[photo8x10]

I always use a Pentax spot and a Minolta spot, in some occasion also a Lunasix and a weston master.

Stefano

 

[Steve Smith]

You're lucky the cells on my Weston V & Euromaster died a long time ago or I'd still be using them.

My Master III is very accurate. It must have had a new cell within the last few years. It was a gift from my father but I think he got it fairly recently.

Probably replaced by Megatron: http://www.megatron.co.uk/homepage.html

From their website: "Our experienced exposure meter specialists also recommend a wide range of repairs and servicing to all Weston Master & Euromaster exposure meters: Calibration check - £22; Recalibration, servicing and minor adjustments - £36; New photocell fitted, recalibration & servicing - £42; New movement fitted, recalibration & servicing - £55; New photocell & new movement fitted, recalibration & servicing - £66. All prices include UK carriage and VAT".

May be worth a repair or calibration.



Steve.

 

[Robert Kerwin]

My Bronica system doesn't have a metered finder, so I use a Minolta Spotmeter F. When I shoot 35mm, I generally use the camera's built-in meter (Nikon F100). Even when I use the Nikon, I find myself using its spot meter in much the same way I do the handheld meter--checking highlights/shadows and setting the exposure manually. It's probably a waste of time and the Nikon's excellent metering and exposure system, but it's more fun and satisfying for a control freak like me.

 

[Chateau Brique]

Weston/Euro Master repair etc

I use a Euro Master that had a new cell fitted and calibration by Megatron in the UK. It is as new -- I bought it from someone who found it unused in a wardrobe belonging to an uncle. A great meter -- and, with a Leica M4, no batteries ever needed.

 

[JBrunner]

Spot meter=meal in a nice restaurant.

Camera meter=serving suggestion.

 

[Q.G.]

I don't agree.

You need to know what you are doing, no matter what type of meter you are using.
And when you do, a built-in meter is just as good as a spot meter.
And not only just as good, but much more convenient, and quicker, too.

 

[FotoGys]

Sekonic L758D

 

[JBrunner]

I don't agree.

You need to know what you are doing, no matter what type of meter you are using.
And when you do, a built-in meter is just as good as a spot meter.
And not only just as good, but much more convenient, and quicker, too.

I thought that might stir the pot. I do agree that you must know what you are doing, and in capable hands either method is capable of serving well. Personally I find that a hand held spot meter gives me a more accurate and complete set of information on exposure, and allows me to make adjustments I might not dare to using any kind of averaging, however that comes at a trade of working method that may or may not serve the situation, as most things in photography.

 

[removed-user-1]

I use a Sekonic L-308s, especially when I'm shooting medium format, as neither the Yashica 635 or the RB67 have built-in meters. I sometimes also use it when shooting 35mm, but I find that my F100's matrix and spot meters work just as well in most situations.

 

[BobNewYork]

Horses for courses. I use a Minolta spot, Minolta Autometer VI (?) and the onboard meters. It depends on the type of photography I'm doing. If I'm running tests in MF or LF where I have no internal meter I base it on the incident, (Autometer whatever) then meter the gray card that's always in the set-up scene I use with the spotmeter. That way, in the field, I can use whichever metering type is most useful. Built-in autos, I run the test in program, adjusting exposures using the compensation dial. I do this on the basis that whichever exposure mode I'm using, (manual, Ap. priority, shutter priority, program) the meter is the same and will indicate the same exposure. I also check my spotmeter against this at the same time. It's easy to do at the time of a calibration run and then you have the flexibility to use whatever's best suited to the moment.

 

[Q.G.]

I thought that might stir the pot. I do agree that you must know what you are doing, and in capable hands either method is capable of serving well. Personally I find that a hand held spot meter gives me a more accurate and complete set of information on exposure, and allows me to make adjustments I might not dare to using any kind of averaging, however that comes at a trade of working method that may or may not serve the situation, as most things in photography.

The trap is thinking that being able to meter many tiny spots will somehow guarantee that you get what you want.

It is not (!) the metering of many tiny spots that does that. It is your knowledge, and how you apply it when assessing a scene visually, identifying the important bits, and how you want/need those to be rendered, relative to a 'middle grey', 'black', or 'white'.

That is a process that is going on inside your head, and is what is steering your spot-meter-holding hand.
The same process allows you to get the exact same, precise result using a single incident light reading.

In other words: the trap is thinking that the meter, and the actual metering, makes all the difference, while it really does not.
You already have grasped the scene in your head, and know what to do with whatever any type meter will report to you.
If not, no matter what meter and how you point the thing, the entire process will be a hit and miss affair, not delivering anything good.

So forget about one type of meter being better (!) than other types of meter. They really are not.
Some, however, are far more convenient, leading much quicker to the desired result, and without offering so many opportunities to make mistakes, than others.

And yes: a spot meter is the worst thing to use. (It really is!)

 

[JBrunner]

The trap is thinking that being able to meter many tiny spots will somehow guarantee that you get what you want.

It is not (!) the metering of many tiny spots that does that. It is your knowledge, and how you apply it when assessing a scene visually, identifying the important bits, and how you want/need those to be rendered, relative to a 'middle grey', 'black', or 'white'.

That is a process that is going on inside your head, and is what is steering your spot-meter-holding hand.
The same process allows you to get the exact same, precise result using a single incident light reading.

In other words: the trap is thinking that the meter, and the actual metering, makes all the difference, while it really does not.
You already have grasped the scene in your head, and know what to do with whatever any type meter will report to you.
If not, no matter what meter and how you point the thing, the entire process will be a hit and miss affair, not delivering anything good.

So forget about one type of meter being better (!) than other types of meter. They really are not.
Some, however, are far more convenient, leading much quicker to the desired result, and without offering so many opportunities to make mistakes, than others.

And yes: a spot meter is the worst thing to use. (It really is!)

Until the scene exceeds an average. No trap, just pure information. Me making decisions, not a meter. I'm much smarter than a meter. YMMV.

 

[dwdmguy]

Yes, L-358
I NEVER trust the in camera meter. (albeit the M6 is pretty spot on thus far.)

 

[Java]

Depending on the situation I will use a meter, Minolta IV, Minolta Spotmeter and just got hold of a nice Weston Master V which hope to start using soon.

I will use my meter even when using the cough~digital E3~cough.

 

[Q.G.]

Until the scene exceeds an average. No trap, just pure information. Me making decisions, not a meter. I'm much smarter than a meter. YMMV.

The trap is thinking that the meter is smarter than you.
So yes: (and that's the point) you're smarter than any meter.

Know that, and you'll also know that it does not matter one iota what meter you are using. And that posing as an expert, snuffing built-in meters, because the one you use is a handheld, and not just any handheld, but nothing less than a spotmeter, is rather ... uhm ... silly.

 

[NormanV]

My only camera with a meter is my digital "Rollei" dp8300. None of my film cameras have meters so I rely on my Weston Euromaster that I have had for for thirty years.

 

[NormanV]

Ooh, sorry I forgot my recently acquired Nikkormat Ftn. I havn't got around to trying it out yet but the meter does agree with my Weston that I paid far more than it's value to have it serviced by Megatron recently but at least I know that it is now as good as new!

 

[JBrunner]

The trap is thinking that the meter is smarter than you.
So yes: (and that's the point) you're smarter than any meter.

Know that, and you'll also know that it does not matter one iota what meter you are using. And that posing as an expert, snuffing built-in meters, because the one you use is a handheld, and not just any handheld, but nothing less than a spotmeter, is rather ... uhm ... silly.

Then why do I bother with it? There must be a reason... maybe it has to do with developing. Hope I haven't been duped...