How hard is developing your own film really?

[MattKing]

It is great if you can support local businesses. They may also be able to help you with either purchasing developing equipment and supplies and information resources, or helping you identify and access other local sources.

 

[Luckless]

Canadian sources can be expensive.
Don's Photo might be a good choice: https://donsphoto.com/shop/kentmere...daa4-0134-8b62-00163e9110c0?variation=1868560
Studio Argentique in Montreal would be another: https://studioargentique.ca/products/kentmere-pan-400-35mm-36exposures
Vistek: https://www.vistek.ca/store/261733/kentmere-400-13536-bw-film
and from Toronto, Downtown Camera: https://downtowncamera.com/shop/ken...29bb-0138-89e2-00163ecd2826?variation=2121149
Local to me, Beau Photo and Kerrisdale Cameras.

https://www.camera-traders.com/ is another West Coast option that I've had excellent service out of.

Victoria keeps the film fridge in Camera Traders going with a fairly consistent turn over, and the shop's been good on timely restocking. I would imagine the arts scene is large enough in Southern Ontario to keep local shops there in good turnover as well.


West coast shops probably aren't the most practical option for you to order from Twiggy, but I've had a few headaches getting hit with random duties and fees on imports from the US, so I try to buy from Canadian shops and let them deal with the potential headache for me whenever possible.

 

[guangong]

I don't know. In the USA, there's no trouble getting a film developing kit or chemistry delivered. They just require ground shipping.

I was referring to developing kits and chemistry sets meant for children.

 

[loccdor]

I was referring to developing kits and chemistry sets meant for children.

Sorry, my mistake.

 

[loccdor]

Niagara.

Twiggy, if you want to meet me on the American side of the falls sometime I'll give you a big box of 10 year expired film you can practice on. I live 6 miles away. Most of it still works okay if you give it a stop of extra exposure.

 

[loccdor]

As far as making print goes, can't I just scan things, and then use some sort of software invert function?

If you want a budget option for scanning, the Epson 4490 can do 2400 real dpi and sells for around $50 on ebay. It's enough to make 10 inch prints from 35mm. If you want bigger it's best to either go the darkroom route or create a DSLR macro digitization solution - but that can be a little advanced for someone just starting out.

 

[MTGseattle]

Don't get into the weeds right away. Processing your own b&w is pretty simple. Find 1 process outlined by either the film data sheet or the chemistry you intend to use data sheet and stick to it for a few rolls.
Label your containers (or make sure you have them in the proper order)
Once you can get images on your film without having to think about every step every time, then you can start "playing" with all of the other mess we get into (push, pull, etc etc)

As for chemistry; Decide if you feel like mixing from powders or not, then decide on how much space you have to store things, then take a look at costs/roll. I've been a user of Ilford's liquid chemistry for quite a while, it's not the cheapest.

many folks use a changing bag or harrison tent or some version of a collapsible thing to load film onto reels. There's a "cube" style one that seems to get decent reviews and isn't terribly expensive.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/41880-REG/Photoflex_AC_CROO1_Film_Changing_Room_25.html?ap=y&smp=y&msclkid=0be6228219151c9c865244cd47002682

Yes, the photoflex cube is $100, but it's reasonably spacious and stores flat-ish. I think a changing bag can be had for less than $50.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1519010-REG/paterson_ptp547u_film_processing_starter_kit.html

This kit seems pretty good but is missing a thermometer.

 

[Twiggy]

@loccdor

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind and just might do that.

I also think I may want to get a half-frame camera like the Kodak Ektar H35N to just make things even more economical, getting 72 photos from a standard 36 roll.

Maybe later on though, probably best to use my "Free" praktica first to see if I like it, before dropping $100 on a H35N. The benefit of it would be lower usage cost over time.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

I support your idea of using your Praktica. I would pass on the Kodak (not really Kodak but 'Reto Design' in HK, Reto just licensed the Kodak name) H35N and look for a used camera on ebay if you want to go the 1/2 frame route. In general I have had good luck with ebay - just stay far away from anything "untested" or from an estate sale where the seller doesn't know didly about cameras. Stick with sellers that accept returns.

I looked on ebay for the price of used film in CA - Ye Gawds - $20/roll for outdated film. I'd beg for donations of old film, every now and then the "clean-out" bug hits us all and we toss stuff that is still useable; we may as well toss it your way. The slower the film the longer it keeps - ASA 100 film stays usable long past its sell-by date.

On the subject of changing bags - I put a cardboard box, laying on its side, inside the bag if I need the room. Usually my arms and hands provide enough of a tent for loading film. If you can darken a room sufficiently that is a better option. As mentioned, the room doesn't have to be *absolutely* dark; it just has to be what normal folks would consider very, very dark. You may be able to see some light through the cracks, but you can't see anything lit up by that light. The faster the film the darker the room needs to be.

 

[ignatiu5]

It is great if you can support local businesses. They may also be able to help you with either purchasing developing equipment and supplies and information resources, or helping you identify and access other local sources.

@Twiggy You might consider reaching out to local resources (for advice, expertise, connections, maybe even gifts of developing gear). I’d be really surprised if there was nobody from https://niagaraphoto.org/ or https://grimsby.photo/ actively shooting film.

 

[GregY]

I'm generally someone that likes older things, and analog formats, tapes, vinyl, I even own a type writer. So, film photography fits right in for me.

I have seen basic youtube guides for developing film at home, and it seems you need either some sort of dark box/bag, or room with complete darkness, a patterson tank, and three chemicals.

But here's my question, how hard or time consuming is it really, is it something anyone can pick up, or does it take a lot of dedication?

The main reason that I am asking is because there are no places that develop film that are truly local to me, the closet is half an hour away. and then you have to pay them as well. I currently shoot instant films, but I think that 35mm film could be much more cost effective, if, and only if, I can actually do it at home.

Where are you located Twiggy. I may be able to help with a tank, or camera.....for free or at most the cost of shipping.... mssg me if it helps

 

[eli griggs]

Easy enough that I sometimes develop film twice a week (3 rolls per develop) while having a full time day job and a bunch of other obligations.

I don't find black and white vs. C-41/E-6 much different in difficulty.

With B&W, you typically have to mix your chemicals from a concentrate every time, where as with C-41 and E-6, you mix the kits once and use them for 20+ films for a liter.

The only additional challenge from color is putting a stopper in your sink, filling it with hot water and throwing your chemical bottles in for a few minutes. You check the temperature with a thermometer and start your development when it's around 39C/102F, though I found anything in the 35-39C/95-102F range works fine with an adjustment in time. A 3 reel Paterson tank might lose a degree or so in the course of a development so keeping everything in finely regulated water bath is not really necessary unless you're going for absolute technical perfection.

I think I started color developing after doing B&W for only about a month.

The changing bag is not as difficult as it first seems. You get the hang of it after a few tries. Please go for it, and good luck!

You can always wrap a plastic Paterson Tank, etc, in some aluminum foil or an insulating tape sleeve, home made.

Likewise for other chemistry, waiting it's turn in order.

One very IMPORTAINT item you'll need to splurge on is a good Kodak Colour Chemistry Thermometer.

E-6 films have a very limited latitude and temperature can be quite critical.



IMO, of ALL developing kit, this should be first on your darkroom or developing tools.

You just need a dark cloths closet or small washer/dryer closet with solid, not slates, with a pull cord light.

B&W films are you're best introduction and don't be afraid of outdated film, stored in a freeze, fridge, or cool, dry basement, most of it can be used effectively, though some 400 iso fast films (and faster) might need a one or two stop drop in film speed exposure.

Good luck.

 

[eli griggs]

I too don't have rooms without windows and I don't have film bag. I just do it at night after turning off everything including electronics with pilot LEDs. I use thick blanket to cover the film, tank etc. Be careful though if you use higher ISO you have to be really quick.

I'll suggest you use a changing 'tent', if you have a large enough counter space to use one.

The metal/plastic structure will keep the fabric off the film and the tent will not get nearly as hot as a changing bag can.

I keep a pair of black changing bags in the bottoms of my main camera bags, out of the way, extra cushioning for kit and always to hand when needed to remove a jammed/frozen roll of film from a camera, without spoiling it.

 

[Twiggy]

Thanks to a very helpful and generous user here, I have a tank, 2 35 wheels and a 120 wheel, along with a camera on the way to me, for only $26.

I have also recently just bought a bag of 1L worth of DF96 in powder form, Ironically coming from new york state, but it costs only $34 Canadian with the shipping, here pwoder alone costs $31 without shipping, and liquid is $37.

I have also been introduced to the world of stand or semi-stand development with Rodinal. I can't seem to find actual Rodinal here, but I did find this. It says it's a rodinal base recipe, could I also stand develop with this?

 

[koraks]

I have also been introduced to the world of stand or semi-stand development with Rodinal.

That's great, but I'd recommend trying regular agitation first to establish a baseline.
Blazinal is equivalent/ similar / identical to rodinal.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

If you are just starting out I would stay away from Rodinal and stand/semi-stand routines. Just one more thing to get screwed up.

Having said that - DF-96 monobath isn't much better. Some have had great luck with it, some have had not had much luck at all. The chemists at Kodak spent decades trying to perfect a monobath and eventually threw in the towel. Kodak doesn't make a monobath, Ilford doesn't make a monobath - which sort-of says something.

Oh, well. You may be one of the lucky ones - somebody has to be.

* * *​

I shouldn't kvetch - when I was starting out I tried every odd developer I could find and used them with every odd developing protocol. I shuddered at the thought of using D-76 and following the instructions on the can. After squandering my money on failed hopes and dreams I came back to the embrace of the Great Yellow Father. All has been good since.

 

[Romanko]

I have also been introduced to the world of stand or semi-stand development with Rodinal.

I agree with @Nicholas Lindan on (semi-) stand development. It is too unpredictable. Rodinal is a decent developer when used 1+25 or 1+50 and you can definitely start with it. If you can get Kodak HC-110 or other concentrated liquid developer they are good options as well. HC-110 and Rodinal have very long shelf life which makes them very economical for a casual shooter.

 

[mshchem]

Go to the Ilford website, it's all explained in friendly videos.

 

[Twiggy]

So I went back to Henry's photo where I got the roll of 120 HP5 from with free shipping, to buy some BW Kentmere 400 film.

They no longer offer free shipping, it's all $9.95 now, which can be good if you ordered a larger heavier item, or multiple items, but not a single 35mm roll, for such a short distance to travel (half an hour).
However Fujicolor 200 film is on amazon for $36.99 for a box of 3 35mm 36exp rolls, so I bought it. I will leave 2 of the rolls for when my chaika II half-frame comes in, but the first roll I will put in dad's praktica and then test developing it in black and white, and see how it turns out.

It's weird, but color film may actually be the most affordable per photo for me, at the moment.

 

[Rolleiflexible]

However Fujicolor 200 film is on amazon for $36.99 for a box of 3 35mm 36exp rolls, so I bought it. I will leave 2 of the rolls for when my chaika II half-frame comes in, but the first roll I will put in dad's praktica and then test developing it in black and white, and see how it turns out.

You can't develop color film in b/w chemistry. Well, you can, but you won't get a printable b/w negative.

If you're looking for a good starter b/w film that is inexpensive and will process easily, buy this film:

ARISTA EDU ULTRA 200 ISO BLACK & WHITE 35MM FILM - 36 EXPOSU

Arista.EDU Ultra 200 strikes a balance between sensitivity and grain, making it versatile for a range of lighting conditions.

www.freestylephoto.com

Freestyle repackages Fomapan 200 into its Arista house brand. The film is spectacular and inexpensive. Some people have issues with the 120 roll version, but the 35mm version is to die for.

 

[Twiggy]

I'll try to look for that from a Canadian source, as the cheapest shipping for three of them is $22 usd, not to mention the $19 usd it costs itself.

I can't understand why Henry's gave me free shipping for one roll of film on thursday, but won't give me free shipping for one now.

 

[Les Sarile]

Twiggy, if you want to meet me on the American side of the falls sometime I'll give you a big box of 10 year expired film you can practice on. I live 6 miles away. Most of it still works okay if you give it a stop of extra exposure.

I picked up a big box of film that was kept in an open driveway in Atlanta, GA from 1992 til I picked it up and shot the first roll in 2010. Really shows how robust film can be stored in the worst conditions!

Kodak Ektar 125 box by Les DMess, on Flickr

Test roll of Kodak Ektar 125 expired since 4/1992 and shot and processed at box speed in 9/2010.

Kodak Ektar 125-1_03 by Les DMess, on Flickr

To my eyes, seems ISO32 seems best.

 

[mshchem]

That's hilarious

 

[Romanko]

That's hilarious

OK. We've got a plan. Source some 30 years' old color negative film stored in a shed in Arizona and develop it in a monobath developer to learn the black-and-white process.

 

[Twiggy]

Seems I can buy bulk film from B&H as they offer free shipping to Canada for orders over $99USD.