How hard is developing your own film really?

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runswithsizzers

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Developing black and white film is about as difficult as baking an apple pie and similarly requires a little patience, dexterity, foresight and ability to follow a recipe.
I was going to say biscuits (American, not British). I can develop a roll of black and white film in about the same time it would take me to make a batch of biscuits from scratch. I think the amount of equipment required, and the level of complexity would be comparable. But pie works, too. Now I'm hungry. ;-)

have seen basic youtube guides for developing film at home...
If you can tolerate information in the form of the written word, both Ilford and Kodak have documents aimed at providing the beginner with the necessary information. I prefer the one from Ilford.

Ilford: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-c...rocessing-your-first-black-and-white-film.pdf

Kodak: https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/default/files/files/products/AJ-3.pdf

The one step that is hard to learn from watching a video or reading a document is how to load the film onto the reel. This must be done in the dark -- or in a dark bag, which is how I do it. I suggest a few dry-runs -- that is, practice winding a roll of old film on your reel in the daylight to get the feel for it before trying it in the dark.
 
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MattKing

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If you were local to me, I could give you most of what you need in the way of equipment.
Sending film to the lab was at its height in the 1970s and 1980s, so your Practica would be fine.
About the changing bag - they work for many, but an interior room that you can make completely dark is better. I use a windowless bathroom.
 

Les Sarile

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I'm generally someone that likes older things, and analog formats, tapes, vinyl, I even own a type writer. So, film photography fits right in for me.

I have seen basic youtube guides for developing film at home, and it seems you need either some sort of dark box/bag, or room with complete darkness, a patterson tank, and three chemicals.

But here's my question, how hard or time consuming is it really, is it something anyone can pick up, or does it take a lot of dedication?

The main reason that I am asking is because there are no places that develop film that are truly local to me, the closet is half an hour away. and then you have to pay them as well. I currently shoot instant films, but I think that 35mm film could be much more cost effective, if, and only if, I can actually do it at home.

I wonder if there is a local community college - or community service, in your area that offers this? Although it's been awhile, I took a community college class that offered this and it was a lot of fun. They also had a darkroom so I was also able to make lots of prints.

Developing b&w is so simple after your first roll. Probably the hardest part is extracting the film and putting it in the tank correctly in complete darkness whether in a room or bag. If you have a throwaway roll of film to practice with that nay help.
 

MFstooges

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That camera would leak light like a sieve. Don't get it, unless you want to put it on a shelf.

You will need to learn about exposure. You should get a 35mm slr with a meter. 35mm film is probably a better way to start than 120 - which can be challenging for very experienced people to load on reels.



In a sense, you've come to the wrong place. While it is pretty quick to develop a roll of film, and it's not complicated, the accumulation of stuff and the steps to get your negatives into positives both complicate and add massively to the amount of time involved. A lot of people like doing this because of that, actually - but many many darkroom workers gladly gave it up when digital was barely matured. Impatience and film photography don't go that well together.

It can take a day or a month to shoot 36 exposures.
It can take 40 minutes to develop, stop, fix that roll of film.
It can 6 hours or so to dry that film (to be on the safe side)
It can take an hour to scan that film or
It can take 5 minutes to contact print the negative sheet and potentially weeks to make satisfactory prints from each image (you're very unlikely to print each image).

I agree with this post. If OP wants to move from instant camera to a film camera plus develop own film plus print I would suggest to break it down into 3 stages. Doing all 3 together will be overwhelming and can lead to a frustration. You don't necessarily have to do the 3 stages sequentially, meaning you can ask for an exposed roll from a friend and try to develop it assuming the person won't mind if you messed up. Or you can learn how to expose film correctly and send the film to a lab until you're confident that you can produce properly exposed film. It may be cost more to develop at lab but take it as education cost.
Or better yet you can search in meetup.com or facebook if you have film photography group nearby they may have community lab you can use.
 

wiltw

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Twiggy said:
But here's my question, how hard or time consuming is it really, is it something anyone can pick up, or does it take a lot of dedication?

Film Processing: Break the whole thing down into Areas of Learning, to make thinks a bit easier to comprehend in smaller bites...none of it is 'difficult' to learn, there are simply a number of areas you need to understand to do it right on your first attempt. Like someone else mentioned, I was about 10-11yo when I processed my first roll of film...but I had to first read, understand sufficiently, and master some mechanical skills, too.

A. Mechanics of film handling in processing in the dark
  1. Learning to transfer film from cartridge/roll to processing reel & tank while you CAN see, using a sacrificial roll (not containing photos)
  2. Learning to transfer film from cartridge/roll to processing reel & tank while you CANNOT see
    ...this can entail the most 'sweat' during the learning process, or be somewhat easy, depending upon the selection of type of reel (and tank)
B. Mechanics of processing equipment handling during processing
  1. Practice filling developing tank with liquid (and technique of removal of air bubbles that can cling to dry film)
  2. Practice agitation technique, with timing of agitation at regular intervals
  3. Practice emptying fluid from tank (into a storage bottle, to reuse specific chemistry
    ...if you can do this with water, it is just as easy replacing the water with processing solution
C. Mechanics of chemistry mixing/dilution and storage
  1. Learn to mix dry chemistry (or to dilute liquid concetrate), to create 'stock solution'
  2. Learn to dilute 'stock solution' to 'working dilution'
    (some kinds of chemistry avoids creation of 'stock' solution and makes a 'working' solution only)
D. Mechanics of using film chemistry during processing
  1. Mechanics of bringing solutions to proper processing temperature (developer is most critical; other solutions need to only be 'somewhat close' in temperature)
  2. Learn the sequence of solutions (Phase C) to pour into processing tank, so you don't ruin a roll by pouring in the wrong stuff, or take too long figuring out what to pour in next.
E. Post-film-processing steps
  1. Washing of film technique and equipment, time
  2. Drying of film technque and equipment, to minimize formation of spots on the film and gathering of dust on the surface

Your slowest learning may be Phase A...the dexterity that is needed for loading rollfilm onto processing reels can be the most daunting (particularly with stainless steel reels), because you need to practice enough IN THE LIGHT with a dummy roll to be able to then do it all IN THE DARK with only minor slowdown. Even loading plastic reels should be practiced first with a dummy roll in the light.

The slowest phases of the actual film processing process can be Phase B...making the solutions in preparation for being ready to process...even learning to measure liquids with sufficient precision for the first time. And learning how to bring solutions to the right temperature and maintain that temperature during your processing session must be done before you actually process your first roll of film. In comparison, processing film itself might consume a half hour total time (excluding wash and dry).

The truly easiest phase is doing Phase D, but it takes the practice/basic mastery of Phase A, and Phase B to be able to do Phase D....after you bumbled thru Phase C in preparation. And learning how to bring solutions to the right temperature and maintain that temperature during your processing session...THAT is the 'hard' part of processing color, the temperature control precision needed.
 
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Twiggy

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Okay thanks.
I see, I will probably stick with the Praktica then, I'll have to inspect it but it should be in working condition, appears good aesthetically. I'll have to see if it's 35mm or not.

I'll probably have to get a bag as I don't have any rooms in my home without windows, except for one, but one that has mandatory interfaces with LED screens, which of course emit light.
 

Chuck1

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Don't forget to take off watches with glowing hands when using a dark bag, in a dark room you notice them.
Practice loading developing reels with a sacrifice roll or a developed test roll, hewes reels are great, but can be pricey.
Start with one and a single tank.
Now to pie, apple can be time consuming peeling and coring and slicing...
I'd say it's like pecan pie
 
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Twiggy

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I may be able to turn off the powerbar that is feeding the meters and their interfaces for a short while to make the room completely dark, for the loading process.

Probably gonna hang the film up in the basement bathroom.
As far as the Braun Norca 2 camera goes, I will be going into town tomorrow to take pictures anyways, guy is leaving it on his front porch for me to inspect and leave money if all checks out, so I might as well inspect it and see if it checks out. I got good inspection tips from "The Dark Room UK Ltd" channel on youtube.
 
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MFstooges

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Okay thanks.
I see, I will probably stick with the Praktica then, I'll have to inspect it but it should be in working condition, appears good aesthetically. I'll have to see if it's 35mm or not.

I'll probably have to get a bag as I don't have any rooms in my home without windows, except for one, but one that has mandatory interfaces with LED screens, which of course emit light.

I too don't have rooms without windows and I don't have film bag. I just do it at night after turning off everything including electronics with pilot LEDs. I use thick blanket to cover the film, tank etc. Be careful though if you use higher ISO you have to be really quick.
 

Sirius Glass

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Much easier than falling off a motorcycle.

Know the steps, quantities, times, line up the equipment and chemicals, instructions and timing device. Take a deep breath and relax. Then you will be ready to start. It is not that hard.
 

bags27

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Developing film, especially c-41 and e-6, I find really easy. B&W is far more of a challenge because there are so very many things you can do to give it your own signature.

But the process of developing for all 3 that I do is ultimately easy. What is sometimes really hard is maintaining consistency. These pages are full of threads (mine included) asking: what did I do wrong?
 
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Twiggy

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As far as making print goes, can't I just scan things, and then use some sort of software invert function?
 

Don_ih

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As far as making print goes, can't I just scan things, and then use some sort of software invert function?

Yes. The easiest and fastest is "get someone else to do it". Second would be to use your phone camera and a light pad + film holder and a phone app. Third would be a film scanner with dedicated computer software. Fourth would be a dslr and then convert manually on a computer using Photoshop or similar.
 

Rick A

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I'm generally someone that likes older things, and analog formats, tapes, vinyl, I even own a type writer. So, film photography fits right in for me.

I have seen basic youtube guides for developing film at home, and it seems you need either some sort of dark box/bag, or room with complete darkness, a patterson tank, and three chemicals.

But here's my question, how hard or time consuming is it really, is it something anyone can pick up, or does it take a lot of dedication?

The main reason that I am asking is because there are no places that develop film that are truly local to me, the closet is half an hour away. and then you have to pay them as well. I currently shoot instant films, but I think that 35mm film could be much more cost effective, if, and only if, I can actually do it at home.

I learned at the age of 9, my sister bought me a Sears home developing kit and I read the instructions. How hard can it be. BTW, I turned 74 last month and still find it magical.
 

Nicholas Lindan

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If OP wants to move from instant camera to a film camera plus develop own film plus print ...

Oh, hell - that was the way I was (self) baptized. Yeah, the first attempts left something to be desired (cough), but things improved.

I learned from "Boys' Big Book of Photography" or something of that ilk. A tri chem pack, some bowls filched from the kitchen, a pack of Velox paper and a red Christmas tree lamp and I was off. Developer stains all over the bathroom didn't bode well for my parents supporting my new hobby. If you can learn it on your own when you are 8 it shouldn't be that hard.

Groucho Marx: "Why any 5 year old could understand this contract. Quick, someone, get me a 5 year old - I can't make head nor tails of it."
 

Mr Bill

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I may be able to turn off the powerbar that is feeding the meters and their interfaces for a short while to make the room completely dark, for the loading process.

I would guess that you could probably tape some cardboard over the lit displays while you load the film. Alternatively perhaps lay a dark-colored towel over it. If you have to go further consider even hanging a dark blanket from the ceiling as a barrier to the light.

A lot of people would say that the room must be perfectly dark, which I'd say is the ideal situation. But tiny amounts of light are not necessarily that harmful. In fact, when I was a kid some "low light photographers" (shooting musicians in dimly lit nightclubs, for example) would INTENTIONALLY give their film a very low level "fogging" exposure to improve the shadow detail (it was called latensification).

So I'd say to do what you can to get the room dark, but tiny amounts of light are not necessarily "deal killers."


As far as making print goes, can't I just scan things, and then use some sort of software invert function?
Sure. But if you have a basic darkroom already set up it's really not that difficult to make some so-called "contact prints."
 

MattKing

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Where are you - what part of Canada?
 

MFstooges

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Never heard of 8 exposures 35mm.
Try to search Kentmere 35mm, it's less than $9 for 24 exposures
 

jimjm

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For those who already do this, what websites do you buy film from?

I'm checking on amazon, and 35mm film there, seems to cost more than instax mini. (which is $12.98 around here)

This is literally the cheapest black and white I could find, $13.44 for only 8 exposures..



But a large pack of 120 black and white Ilford film, costs only $22.


I often buy from Freestyle photo, and 36 exposure rolls of 35mm B/W film start at around $6 for Arista, Kentmere and Catlabs film. These will all work fine, I've used Arista and Kentmere in the past without any issues. B&H and Adorama will be competitive on pricing.
If you have a medium format camera, 120 film runs about the same cost per roll, but you only get between 8 and 16 exposures depending on the format you're using.
 

Luckless

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Developing film at home isn't an excessively complex or difficult task.

Controlling dust might drive you slightly insane, but a bit of care, attention, and fans with large HEPA filters go a long way to making it easier.


For getting your film loaded onto reels, I'm a fan of a dark bag on my desk while watching things. It isn't a long process, and I just tent the bag up with the empty film developing tank I'm going to be loading, and sometimes hang a bit of the dark bag off the edge of the desk to get a bit more vertical space to work with.

Round pointed scissors are a far nicer choice than sharp pointed ones.

For your chemistry, read up on the different ones that you can find in your region, and pick one that you like the sound of. They all have different pros and cons.

Black and White film and papers are a little more accessible and straightforward, and an excellent place to start even if you want to play with colour processes in the future.

Digital processing and prints are as valid of an option as you want them to be for your art. It is your art, and no one else gets to say what makes you happy with it.

[If you're not already comfortable to the controls for adjusting exposure, reading a meter, and playing with things like depth of field, then I would actually suggest a cheap dSLR and its instant feedback to get your head around the core basics, rather than trying to learn both those and film processes at the same time. You'll still have some minor adjustments when you switch to film, but I figure it is better to quickly build a solid foundation to extend off of, rather than slowly piecing one together while risking pitfalls from the lag between adjusting your settings and seeing the results on film.]

Black and White paper has a solid overlap in general processing compared to film, but just remember most black and white films aren't safe to handle under a red light that you can handle [most? all?] black and white papers under. Legit have no idea if there is a current black and white paper that can't be handled under red safe light, but there are only a handful of current production films that are safe to handle with a red safe light on.


Sure. But if you have a basic darkroom already set up it's really not that difficult to make some so-called "contact prints."

To extend on Mr Bill's comments: Of course there is nothing to say you can't play with your negatives with different processes. Scanning/digitizing your negatives also lets you invert an image and explore it a bit more without having to visualize the inversion in your head. I'm currently rather behind on my digital cataloguing, but kind of prefer it as a reference compared to the negative sheets, and I never got into the habit of of doing contact sheets to go with my negative storage.

But I also like being able to keyword and sort a digital catalogue, then go find the physical negative. But to have any actual value you do need to invest the effort to actually implement a system, and then keep putting in the effort to keep things organized and maintained. Just be warned of the pain of a growing backlog...


They aren't everyone's cup of tea, but personally I like some of the contact prints from my 6x6 and 6x7 cameras. Haven't tried any out of a 35mm negative, and feel that might be pushing things too small, but I only have a handful of rolls in 35mm, and haven't had a frame I want to try yet.


And you don't have to finalize a setup anytime soon. Photograph and develop your film, and play with it by way of digitization for awhile if that's an easy route. Maybe add contact prints in after awhile as you get together the bits of gear like trays and stuff and decide what sort of paper and chemistry you want to work with. Maybe eventually add a full enlarger to your kit. If your negatives are properly developed, fixed, and washed, then they won't really care if they're printed immediately or carefully stored and printed a decade from now.

They're negatives, they don't actually have feelings of their own. Do what works for you.
 

MattKing

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Canadian sources can be expensive.
Don's Photo might be a good choice: https://donsphoto.com/shop/kentmere...daa4-0134-8b62-00163e9110c0?variation=1868560
Studio Argentique in Montreal would be another: https://studioargentique.ca/products/kentmere-pan-400-35mm-36exposures
Vistek: https://www.vistek.ca/store/261733/kentmere-400-13536-bw-film
and from Toronto, Downtown Camera: https://downtowncamera.com/shop/ken...29bb-0138-89e2-00163ecd2826?variation=2121149
Local to me, Beau Photo and Kerrisdale Cameras.
 
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Twiggy

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Thank you.

Good news!

I also just found a local store in st.catharines, 36 kentmere 400 for 9.99 but the shipping is free.
 
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