How do you use Ilford Pan F Plus?

[Pioneer]

Thanks John and I am certainly enjoying the coffee.

I haven't had opportunity to pull out the sumatranol for a bit so this sounds like a great excuse. I think I may even have some Ansco 130 that I picked up a while back from photoformulary to add to the mix.

On a slightly different note I have a couple of shots taken earlier this week that I souped in some Rodinal that I am going to try and print as soon as I can. They were a bit under exposed unfortunately but the lighting was absolutely sensational so I'm going to have to give them a try. I can't be sure but the negatives on the light table appear to have some very interesting tones, especially for 35mm.

I sure wish Ilford made this in 4x5. Of course I would probably go broke buying it if they did.

 

[MattKing]

Absolutely. But those two old ones will have gone away...........

Along with some or all of the edge printing that was put on even earlier .

 

[Pioneer]

Along with some or all of the edge printing that was put on even earlier .

That is an interesting point Matt. The film I have been using expired in 2014 and yet the edge printing seems no different from the edge printing on my HP5+. Maybe it just takes longer for graphic imprinting like edge printing to go away than for tonal image information to fade.

It does seem odd though.

 

[MattKing]

The edge printing is probably similar to highlight densities on a negative.
I'm guessing that the latent image failure that is seen in Pan F affects the shadows first.

 

[jim appleyard]

Hi Dan
I typically expose it somewhere around sunny 11, maybe sunny 8 and develop it split 72F ansco130 1:10 for 5 minutes 1min, 10 sec/1min
followed directly by Sumatranol 130 ( sumatra caffenol c spiked with ansco 130 20cc/L ) 72ºF continuous agitation 5 minutes ..

John

Well, that certainly is a different way to skin a cat! I never thought about doing film that way, but whatever works. Sumatranol? Is this where the your coffee comes from?

 

[removed account4]

Well, that certainly is a different way to skin a cat! I never thought about doing film that way, but whatever works. Sumatranol? Is this where the your coffee comes from?

Hi Jim
YES ! straight from Sumatra (and my garage / wok ! )
I got my idea to do it that way because for years I read about
Divided D23, and said, heck, its not metol and sulfite, its not borax why not?
and I haven't stopped. >> It's fun at least

 

[Vaidotas]

As ISO 40 in Xtol 1:1

 

[trendland]

Which has nothing to do with Ilford PanF+ obviously.

yes but just if you use the word "obviously" - I prefer "perhaps" - I havn't shot it up to now - so
Everything is possible!

with regards

 

[koraks]

I have and they're completely unrelated materials that have nothing in common besides being b&w and having 50 printed on the box.

Even not having shot them a quick Google search on your behalf would have clarified my "obvious".

 

[Paul Verizzo]

I've not used it, so take my thought with a grain of sodium sulfite: Why use a fine grain developer? My instinct would be using any of the viscous bottled ones, or something like DK-50 1:1.

The fine grain is built into the film. Go for the sharpness.

 

[Nokton48]

I would think Willie Beutler "Leica Developer" might work well. That is simple to make and inexpensive, and about as high acutance as you can get.

I know it pairs well with Panatomic-X, so why not??

 

[John Wiegerink]

I have used both Beutler and DK-50, but not with Panf+. I have used Pyrocat-HDC, Xtol 1+1, Xtol replenished and Rodinal. Those developers were all very good, but I like Xtol replenished for scenes of normal to low contrast and Pyrocat-HDC or Rodinal 1+100 semi-stand for scenes of slightly higher contrast. Panf+ in 35mm seems to look grainier in Rodinal 1+50 than Delta 100 in the same developer. I would imagine the same goes for Tmax 100, but haven't used that combination. The absolute best Panf+ negatives I have ever made have come from developing 120 in Rodinal 1+100 semi-stand for 1hr. It was a real bright sunny Fall day with clouds. An incident reading with the meter set at asa32/iso32 gave me all the tones in perfect position from the darkest black to the texture in the clouds. It would be my "go to" developer for Panf+ except for two things. The first is that I do not use Panf+ much at all and the second is bromide streaking/uneven development with the 120 film and semi-stand. If I played more with Panf+ I could solve the later I'm sure. I have a roll tucked in the freezer and it we get one more snow storm I just might haul it out and respool to 620 and stick it in my lovely Kodak Monitor 620. I'm not saying I don't like Panf+ cuz I do, but I just would rather use FP4+ or Delta 100 with Xtol-R. JohnW​