Did you have a look at the link John included?
I seem to recall that the instructions in the boxes indicated they were the settings when the time was between 10am and 2pm, when the light was basically flat and high in the sky. How do you estimate the light and apply the exposure setting at one hour before sunset? 45 minutes, 30 minutes, 10 minutes, 5 minutes, etc? There can be many stops difference during that period.
Question goes for really any meterless camera. I use an app on my iPhone (Pocket Light Meter), but I am trying to train myself to use the "force within". You know, try to remember or guess what the reading would be. Not that good at it yet. What are others doing? A real meter? Please be specific as I still, after all these years am wishing to learn more what others do.
Its really a question of speed and therefore a question of subject matter.
I seem to recall that the instructions in the boxes indicated they were the settings when the time was between 10am and 2pm, when the light was basically flat and high in the sky. How do you estimate the light and apply the exposure setting at one hour before sunset? 45 minutes, 30 minutes, 10 minutes, 5 minutes, etc? There can be many stops difference during that period.
Same as all my other (I no longer own Leicas) meterless cameras, a Weston Master III and for low light a Gossen LunaSix. Being able to estimate exposure with useable accuracy is a valuable skill but is not a substitute for an accurate meter properly used.Question goes for really any meterless camera. I use an app on my iPhone (Pocket Light Meter), but I am trying to train myself to use the "force within". You know, try to remember or guess what the reading would be. Not that good at it yet. What are others doing? A real meter? Please be specific as I still, after all these years am wishing to learn more what others do.
Most situations allow pre-metering or metering between subjects.
One can meter in the directions they are going to shoot.
film is slow, and there is never enough light. The possibility of overexposing is usually just not there. In a great many situations, I'm simply exposing the film as much as I can, hoping to get ENOUGH exposure.
hi alan
i don't worry about it.
film is forgiving ... besides, there is no such thing as a perfect exposure
anyone who believes in perfection, whether it is a film exposure
negative development, print development &c should
just realize before it is too late that might seem necessary, but in the end
it really doesn't matter. what matters is that you can expose the film well enough, develop it good enough
and print it well enough. no such thing as magic bullets, magic lenses, magic cameras
magic developers magic film or magic paper ...
some of the best photographs in the world were made without lightmeters, not sure why it is so important to have and use one all the time
instincts are a much better tool ...
( for me at least)
First rule is pre meter and set the camera up for the direction you are looking.Not to be argumentative, but what if that is not known?
For example, I had occasion a week or so ago while out walking my dog to take a lovely photo of a pair of great grandparents out playing with their infant great granddaughter. The light was tricky: They were partially shaded by a tree, the sun was behind them, it was partially overcast. There would be no practical way to pre-meter for such conditions.
Time was a factor. The moment was just that...a moment (they were holding the baby up on a branch of a tree). I pulled my Agfa from my pocket, asked them if I could take their picture, made a quick assessment of the light (overcastish...backlight...shade...need some more exposure. Go to f/5 or so at 1/50 or so), rangefindered the distance, dialed it all in and took the shot (which came out lovely, I'm pleased to say).
Meters are wonderful, and I use mine whenever I can. But there is real value in being able to see the light and get a good exposure from "dead reckoning".
Do Calumet sell bilge pumps these days, with the recent torrential rain and flooding it would be great marketing opportunity for themFirst rule is pre meter and set the camera up for the direction you are looking.
Second rule is shoot first fine tune 2nd if the subject is transient you might get a good shot
Third rule is to carry the camera in hand prefocused 1st pressure taken up.
When you pre meter you do it for both sides of street and facing both ways and memorize each and also memorize what you set the camera for. If you have dappled shade more to remember.
If you are chicken use a programmed camera with back light compensation.
If you use a wide range film and a low contrast developer you have four stops latitude unless you have strong sun.
Not often I get sun.
Today I've got a F2 with DE-1 & mirror locked up but Im still getting aggravation, Im metering with a Weston II, HP5+ dull overcast ocassionally sun - yesterday rain I needed a bilge pump in gbag.
Kids: "Dad, where the %$@&* did our college money go??"
Dad: "I spent it on film for my 8x10, I had to buy so much because I was too %&@#$ macho to use a meter and wasted most of it"
I stopped using meters a while ago.
Meterless with negative film is quite easy. Most film datasheets have recommendations that work fine. All those "difficult situations" people talk about never seem to be a problem for me in practice, for a simple reason: film is slow, and there is never enough light. The possibility of overexposing is usually just not there. In a great many situations, I'm simply exposing the film as much as I can, hoping to get ENOUGH exposure. If it's sunny, overcast, or shady, I already have my camera set. If I'm not sure about the light but I have to use 1/250 to stop the action and I have to use f/4 to get enough depth-of-field, then those are the setting I use. Exposure is a tool to use, not a goal to hit.
Not to be argumentative, but what if that is not known?
You meant this evenings cats and dogs?Do Calumet sell bilge pumps these days, with the recent torrential rain and flooding it would be great marketing opportunity for them
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