How do I clean, lubricate, and adjust a camera?

Eric De Santiago · May 23, 2019

I have a Canon A-1 and an AE-1 Program that I want to CLA, because I don’t have the money to send them to a camera shop. I was wondering how hard it is to do it, what materials/tools I would need, and how I would actually go about doing it.

AgX · May 23, 2019

Where you are located you would likely get many used samples for the price of a professional service. Chances are that amongst them is a better sample than yours.
I admit though that a good sample still would be at least in theory inferior to a good but serviced sample.

You find some professional repair manuals for A-series models on the net for free. This alone likely wil deter you.
Something that practially any A-sample would need is exchange of the foam rubber. The gasket one and the mirror damper you should be able to handle yourself. Another critical point is the friction mirror damper. Which in the long run likely will have to be done with any sample too. This necessitate quite some stripping of the camera and partially disassembling of the mirror box. (There are alternative but mediocre approaches on the net.)

Before doing any attempt on a A-series sample I strongly advise to disassemble and put back together again several samples of finder and SLR junk-cameras. This advise I would even give to someone with fine-mechanical experience.

jim10219 · May 23, 2019

I've never opened up either of those cameras, but generally you need some jewelers screwdrivers, a spanner wrench, tweezers, the proper lubricants (of which there can be many and they're usually not cheap), an ultrasonic cleaner (also not cheap), some degreaser (naphtha and isopropyl alcohol are common, but you have to know which to use for which circumstances), and a clean place to work. You'll also need some replacement adhesive foam in various thicknesses and densities and a way to cut them down (or buy them in a premade kit). Plus you'll need a clean place to work that's well lit, and maybe a magnifying glass or something to see small parts. It also helps to have a divided bin or something so that you can keep all of the parts you remove in order so you don't forget what goes where. A digital camera or cell phone will help with that if you take lots of pictures as you disassemble the camera, so you know how it goes back together. You may also need a mainspring removal tool, a DMM, soldering tools and supplies, various electronics components for replacements, etc. And there may be other tools you'll discover you need along the way, but this is enough to get you started.

Basically, you'll spend more on the tools and supplies than on the CLA. Also, you'll need a repair manual for those cameras to tell you how to take them apart and put them back together, as well as what kinds of lubricants to use, and how much to apply. And if you attempt all of this yourself, there's a likelihood you'll mess something up and destroy the camera, so it's best to start off tearing apart a few junker cameras to gain a bit of knowledge before attempting to repair a camera you actually plan on using.

CLAing a camera isn't the hardest thing in the world, but it's far from easy. And if you own a bunch of cameras and like that kind of work, it's definitely worth learning how to do it yourself. But if all you're trying to do is save money on one or two cameras, this isn't the way to go about it. You'll likely be able to find a pair of used cameras in good condition for less than the price of either the tools or a professional CLA, if saving money is your goal. If, however, you're a camera collector and own a hundred, then sending each one out for a CLA can be devastatingly expensive, so learning to do your own CLA is definitely a wise move there. Especially since many of the parts and tools can be shared (like the lubricants, foam, etc.).

Kino · May 23, 2019

Unless you have a specific problem, just clean the camera bodies well with cotton swabs, a mild cleaner like Windex and canned air.

Clean the lens(es) as per normal.

Replace the light seals (easy enough to do; look online for YouTube videos) and use your cameras.

If you don't have the funds to splash out for a CLA, use the cameras until they develop a fault or die. Then, reconsider if it is worth repairing or simply replacing.

Others will disagree, but if they do, ask them for a donation.

Arvee · May 23, 2019

Kino said:
Unless you have a specific problem, just clean the camera bodies well with cotton swabs, a mild cleaner like Windex and canned air.

Clean the lens(es) as per normal.

Replace the light seals (easy enough to do; look online for YouTube videos) and use your cameras.

If you don't have the funds to splash out for a CLA, use the cameras until they develop a fault or die. Then, reconsider if it is worth repairing or simply replacing.

Others will disagree, but if they do, ask them for a donation.

+1! Excellent advice!

4season · May 23, 2019

I got my start with Thomas Tomosy's Camera Maintenance & Repair: Besides tips on dealing with specific cameras, he also introduces many of the basic tools and techniques you'll need, how they're used, and how you can make some of your own tools.

Replacing rotted foam is a good first project.

Beyond that, I suggest starting with cameras that are already pretty beat-up, because chances are, your screwdrivers and spanner wrenches will slip, creating deep furrows right where you don't want to see them. (I don't know if it's possible not to do that when you're learning). Screws which are easily removed in the YouTube videos will be totally frozen on your camera, random parts will fall out, and you'll have some choice words while figuring out where they are supposed to go! Yes, it's pretty much guaranteed that you're going to suck at it at first, but if you keep practicing, you'll find that you gradually begin to suck less.

choiliefan · May 23, 2019

It would be good to know if there is an obvious problem with the camera.
Appears the most common probs afflicting the A-series Canons are the sticky shutter magnet and the squeaky mirror.
Repair of these are well documented on the WWW.

jim10219 · May 23, 2019

Kino said:
Unless you have a specific problem, just clean the camera bodies well with cotton swabs, a mild cleaner like Windex and canned air.

Clean the lens(es) as per normal.

Replace the light seals (easy enough to do; look online for YouTube videos) and use your cameras.

If you don't have the funds to splash out for a CLA, use the cameras until they develop a fault or die. Then, reconsider if it is worth repairing or simply replacing.

Others will disagree, but if they do, ask them for a donation.

I wouldn't be one of the ones to disagree with that!

As an added bonus, the easiest way to fix a slow shutter is to write the actual shutter speeds on a sticker and place it on the back of the camera. Something like:

1/500 = 1/200
1/250 = 1/160
1/125 = 1/70
1/60 = 1/40
1/30 = 1/20

KN4SMF · May 23, 2019

This thread is hardly different from someone asking " how do I fix my car". It's a non starter.

choiliefan · May 23, 2019

CLA is a clean, lubricate and adjust everything so it functions again as new.
Otherwise you are just doing a repair.

AgX · May 23, 2019

Both activities are practically mingled:
If the camera has a part that is known to fail prematurely but still did not and the camera is given a CLA treatment it likely would be econimcal to substitute this part during the same session.
If a camera has to be vastly disassembled it likely is economic to give it a CLA treatment during the same session.

Paul Howell · May 23, 2019

I've taken apart and repaired a few mechanical cameras like Petri and Miranda, about 1/2 the time I can fix it, other times I only makes things worse and buy another. For a complete CLA you need all that has been mentioned, and a shutter speed timer is quite handy, I don't have one and would need one to be spot on with shutter adjustments. If your current cameras are working I would buy a beater from Shopgoodwill.com. Look for a body with a lens that been dropped, they usually go cheap. Get the manual and start the learning curve.

BMbikerider · May 23, 2019

If you have to ask this question then I respectfully suggest that you are not skilled enough to work on what is in-fact a complex instrument. I don't mean that in a nasty sort of way but even the type of camera(s) you have, will at some stage need a test rig even if it is to check or adjust the shutter speeds. Then there is the lubrication question, - do you have any idea of how many types of lubrication there are and how much you apply? Have you the special tools needed to dismantle some of the internals? For the cost of a good service against having to buy another camera body I would suggest that it is really best left alone and handed over to someone with training>

John Koehrer · May 23, 2019

Most manuals assume familiarity with basic disassembly techniques.
The Tomosoy books are a good basic book but I doubt they'd be helpful with an A series Canon. Tomosoy
was written before the advent of electronically controlled camera and are pretty useless for them.

neilt3 · May 26, 2019

KN4SMF said:
This thread is hardly different from someone asking " how do I fix my car". It's a non starter.

choiliefan said:
CLA is a clean, lubricate and adjust everything so it functions again as new.
Otherwise you are just doing a repair.

So what size hammer is needed ?

choiliefan · May 26, 2019

If a hammer won't fix it,
it's an electrical problem.

neilt3 · May 26, 2019

choiliefan said:
If a hammer won't fix it,
it's an electrical problem.

So that'll be a rubber hammer than ?

To the O.P ;

Gotta now your limitations when your tinkering with technical things like cameras .
Changing light seals , easy and a d.i.y job .
Fitting a new focus screen , on some cameras easy , other cameras hard , some cameras it's a specialist job .

For a CLA , asking how hard it is , what's needed and how to do it , suggests it's too involved and complicated a task for a first job , otherwise you'd know what's involved .
And without even looking at a service manual before considering it isn't a good starting point .
No one can say what the O.P is capable of doing , even with the correct tools, materials and information , as no one knows the O.P's abilities .

As suggested , practice on some broken , cheap cameras before advancing onto servicing working cameras , or you'll end up with lots of cameras in pieces with no sign of getting them back together again !

guangong · May 26, 2019

Repair or buy new depends upon the camera. Cameras that I own and bought new or almost new I get serviced or repaired because I know their history regarding how they were treated. However, if I don’t know how previous owner(s) treated a camera and service is about as much as buying a replacement, I would buy a replacement.
For example, I replaced discolored prism of Leicaflex SL2 for only a little less than buying used. But I know that my SL2 was never dropped, dunked or mistreated.
And I don’t believe i’ll ever find a Super Ikonta B better than the one I have.
However, unless you are one of those folks who has the talent and enjoys taking things apart and fixing them, I would leave any seriously repair to experts.

John Koehrer · May 27, 2019

neilt3 said:
So what size hammer is needed ?

I use an assortment from. 1 oz, 2.5 oz, 4 oz then when frustration sets in from the garage, 8 oz, 16 oz, and 5lb.
I've never had anything that couldn't be solved with the 5 pounder.

BrianShaw · May 27, 2019

John Koehrer said:
I use an assortment from. 1 oz, 2.5 oz, 4 oz then when frustration sets in from the garage, 8 oz, 16 oz, and 5lb.
I've never had anything that couldn't be solved with the 5 pounder.

Your missing one. Every man (and some women, too) needs a 24-ounce framing hammer!

mshchem · May 28, 2019

I've become a repair genius. I always have people trying to give me darkroom chemicals. I got a couple of old banned CFC based solvent movie film cleaner/lubricant.
I fixed a nice A12 Hasselblad back, I had bought it figuring the dark slide was worth the 10 dollars I paid for it. I took a eyedropper and put a drop of the solvent in where the gears are exposed. It improved, the next day brave enough to put in a couple 3 drops. I started winding it ,going through the paces. Works great now. Thus same pick I found a 65mm f5.6 Super Angulon in a #0 Copal shutter. The shutter was hung up in the low range. A few drops of the miracle solvent had it working like a Swiss watch, at least it sounds correct, I paid 10 bucks for it as well. I bought some other junk that I shouldn't have so it all worked out. The bottles are only partial 4 ounce bottles so I'm going to need to make it last.

choiliefan · May 28, 2019

John Koehrer said:
I use an assortment from. 1 oz, 2.5 oz, 4 oz then when frustration sets in from the garage, 8 oz, 16 oz, and 5lb.
I've never had anything that couldn't be solved with the 5 pounder.

An arbor press and heavy maul can work wonders on these delicate mechanisms as well.
Channel-locks and Vice-grips have their place in the craftsman's hands, kneading recalcitrant metals into wondrous new shapes...

choiliefan · May 28, 2019

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_tetrachloride

Luckless · May 28, 2019

If you are planning to get into the wonderful world of camera tinkering, then it will pay to setup a space suitable to the task.

A small and highly minimal and uncluttered room will be your friend. Look around your work space, and pretend that you're an angry little spring shaped convict being held in a camera shaped prison, and would be willing to do anything or hide anywhere to avoid being in prison... Because no matter how careful you are, sooner or later something is going to slip and go pinging across the room... The fewer random open boxes and stuff you give it to fly into, the better your chances of actually finding it.

Even just little screws can be annoyingly skilled at hiding. - I dropped this little black 1/2mm long set screw on my mostly grey, but 'textured', carpet a few months back, and couldn't spot it for the life of me. Then stepped on it later that evening after I had given up on finding it.

Assume that all the smaller parts are demonic little tricksters, and treat them accordingly.

One of my former colleagues went so far as to make a large 'light box' pop-up tent thing that was sewn onto the top of one of those tyvek suits. Like those boxes in labs that you stick your hands into gloves going through the side, but he put his whole upper body in the box. [His claim was that it was more comfortable and offered better freedom of movement.] He still managed to somehow lose a spring out of a watch with it...

choiliefan · May 28, 2019

My brother made one of those boxes out of a clear plastic zip-up bag that bed comforters come in.
He cut two large holes, one on either side for his hands, for dissembling handguns. Works well and keeps errant springs and small parts from landing in the carpet.

How do I clean, lubricate, and adjust a camera?

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