Homemade Film Drying Cabinet Question

[brian steinberger]

Let's say I chose to put a fan in instead of lightbulb to create air movement. Would I mount the fan inside or outside the cabinet and at the top of bottom? And keep the filter?

 

[Rick A]

If you use a fan, I would mount on the bottom and pull warmer room air from above. You can buy foam A/C filter material from Dollar store or a hardware for really cheap. If you want to meet up some time I have a small fan you can have.

 

[brian steinberger]

So I tried a 60w bulb, then 100w bulb, then added a computer fan. Film buckle remains. So today I decided to try hanging the film in the open of the darkroom, thinking I wasn't getting enough airflow. And what I got was massive film curl. I'm thinking humidity is just so low right now that the film is drying too fast. See (there was a url link here which no longer exists) thread.

 

[Rick A]

I think low humidity plays a major factor in causing curl.

 

[brian steinberger]

I think low humidity plays a major factor in causing curl.

I agree Rick. I plan to get a humidifier.

 

[M Carter]

We have a pretty dusty 1930's era home. I've been drying roll film in an unused bathroom. When the film's in the final rinse, I run the shower in the bathroom on hot until the room feels a little thick & steamy. I give the towel rack (it's about 5' off the floor) a wipe-down and stick an A-clamp (spring clamp) on the rack for each roll.

I bring the tank into the bathroom with Photoflo and 99% isopropyl in a final tank of distilled water. When I unspool the film, I dry the top 1" thoroughly with a kim wipe (water can get trapped up there and run down and it's just blank film), hang it from the towel rack, squeegie with my photoflo'd fingers. And then (horror of horrors) I roll a kim wipe into a wrinkle-free cylinder, wrap it around the roll and GENTLY pass it top to bottom. Close the door, stay out for an hour or two, and then trim and sleeve the film in the same room.

Since taking these steps, I have almost zero dust problems in printing - really been a life changer! The kim-wipe thing: for some time I only did this on test film (anyone who's dialed in exposure and development has likely run through a dozen test strips in a day). I found zero scratches from the kim wipes and to date, no scratches - I like how this dries film 100% free of water marks. Kim wipes are really the bomb-diggity.

 

[megzdad81]

OK--now you've raised a question from me. Photoflo AND 99% isopropyl AND water? I assume your talking alcohol--what does that do?

 

[M Carter]

I add a splash of 99% iso (alcohol, but not the 70% version from the grocery store, you can buy 99.8%). It will help break down any mineral stuff in the water (I sometimes just use our filtered water for final wash) and it also speeds drying a bit. (This is mentioned in "Way Beyond Monochrome" as well, and they recommend - if I recall correctly - 20% in your final wash water).

 

[Rick A]

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/635111-Arista-Plastic-Film-Clip-Set-of-2

I have a set of these, and can recommend them for 35mm and 120 film, I also have a hand full of Kodak Jr stainless film clips.

 

[brian steinberger]

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/635111-Arista-Plastic-Film-Clip-Set-of-2

I have a set of these, and can recommend them for 35mm and 120 film, I also have a hand full of Kodak Jr stainless film clips.

Thanks Rick! How wide are these things??

 

[MattKing]

OK--now you've raised a question from me. Photoflo AND 99% isopropyl AND water? I assume your talking alcohol--what does that do?

In my case I use the isoprlpyl alcohol to make up a stock solution - 1 part Photoflo + 7 parts alcohol. I have an 8 ounce bottle I store it in. The stock solution keeps well, because mould won't grow in it, whereas mould will grow in Photoflo diluted with water.

When it comes to use it, the stock solution is diluted 1+ 24 with water. That dilution is far easier to accomplish reliably than 1:200, and the total dilution ends up to be the desired 1:200.

 

[DREW WILEY]

My sink room is quite clean, so I generally just use a clothesline above the sink to hang dry negatives. But I did build a clean box to do
the same thing via filtered air (no deliberate heat). I made it of melamine coated hardboard for cleanliness, with aluminum joints (made for
that exact kind of material), but one could just use a big polyethylene store box (not vinyl that outgasses). On the air inlet side I just mounted
a relatively inexpensive air purifiers with integral filtration which pushes the air with a whirly fan, at the other end one of those "permanent" mesh coffee filters. There's a short run of monofilament clothesline inside.

 

[tron_]

Funny I come across this thread as I'm building a drying cabinet myself!

My plan is to pick up a metal locker from Home Depot, cut out the floor and install a furnace filter, cut out the top and install a 12V CPU fan for airflow. Maybe installing a pull fan on top of the cabinet in addition with a light bulb for heat would help you.

 

[brian steinberger]

Just wanted to update everyone here on what has happened since my last post. Since then the humidity in my darkroom has risen from 35% to 50% and the film buckle problem has completely disappeared. I did add a light bulb and even a fan to my cabinet but from my experience so far I don't need it. I did replace my original dense furnace filter material out for the washable AC filter material and simply hang my film in, close the door and let it dry.

 

[Rick A]

Sorry I didn't check back sooner Brian. If you look at the product photo, you will see two hooks on the clips. These hook into sprocket holes on 35mm film or you can clip the film in the jaws. The hooks have broken off my weighted clip, I've had them for many years and dropped them on occasion, so I don't use mine that way.