Homemade DIY recessed lensboard

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keithostertag

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This is one of those fast easy inexpensive projects that didn't turn out completely adequate due to my not having thought the project all the way through... as you'll see shortly.

The standards on my Cambo 5x7 don't draw close enough to use very short lenses without a recessed lensboard. I want a recessed lensboard to use an old 4 3/8" Tessar. Because my Cambo uses a large lens board (approx 6.25" x 6.25") I figured I had adequate room to make my own. After some consideration, I decided to try using a tuna fish can rather than try to accurately cut all the little pieces needed to build a box-like recess.

This 12oz tuna can measures about 4" in diameter and about 2" deep. That seemed big enough to accommodate the lens and small enough to fit the lensboard with room for my fingers to set the shutter. Also, it is shaped like a perfect cylinder (straight sides) but has a ridge at the top which can be conveniently used as a stop and light block.

I used an old clipboard (Masonite?) as the base material. It was the right 1/8" thickness for the lensboard and is easy to cut. I used a router to cut the channels used for the light trap: I did those router cuts freehand, so you'll notice the wavy cuts! Yea, sloppy...

I used a drill press with an adjustable hole cutting bit to cut the large hole for can.

I took a chance and used a Forstner bit to cut the lens hole in the can... the metal is soft enough that the cut went easy and didn't seem to damage the bit (designed for wood).

I used some construction Gorilla glue to glue the can to the board. As you can see, I also added a wire for strength and added light blocking, pushing it down into the glue (though it probably isn't necessary). When dry I spray painted with a coat of primer then a coat of flat black paint.

I also made a couple of paper washers to use between the lens and tuna can... the metal is thin and smooth and was difficult to tighten the jam nut enough to stop the lens from turning without them.

Looks not bad: it is light tight and very sturdy!

However, here's the catch: I failed to account for the space needed for a cable release! Duh! Even the angled adapter doesn't have enough room. IF I had made a square box for the recess I could have used the extra space in a corner for the cable release... Hah!

I might still be able to use it in my case: since I do long exposures I can just do the ol' lens cap shutter trick... but what a PITA!

I hope this writeup helps someone else, or at least provides some amusement for you guys that are so skilled making your own gear. If you can point to instructions for making a better recessed lensboard, then that would be great.

Keith Ostertag




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darkroommike

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Drill a hole in the lensboard and another in the side of the tuna can. A little black gaffer tape and good to go!
 

Luckless

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Another option could be to get something that fits as a sleeve around the edge of the can, and then attach arms to that to transfer movement to the release arm on the lens.

Shutter release threads into a mount on the surface of the board, and causes the large ring to rotate, which then in turn trips the shutter.

Cutting more holes for an angled adaptor is however probably the more reliable and durable option, assuming you can get the holes sealed up while still being able to remove it.

Layered cardstock and glue also goes surprisingly far and is rather durable if you can keep it dry. A handy tool if you need to make odd shapes.
 

Dan Fromm

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What a lot of thinking and work.

Keith, did you try putting the tripod mounting block in front of the front standard? I ask because my SC-1 and SC-2 (I don't have a 5x7 SC-3) both focus quite short lenses on flat boards when the tripod mounting block isn't between the standards. Bag bellows needed if the lens is really short and movements are wanted.

Do you believe that a 4 3/8"/4.5 Tessar will cover 5x7? Most of us think they won't even cover 4x5.

Re cable release extension, have you tried one of these: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/233735-REG/Gepe_603007_Cable_Release_Extension_f.html?
 
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keithostertag

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Hi Dan-

Yes, I have moved the tripod block to the front of the front standard- still not close enough for this lens.

Yes, the Tessar seems to adequately cover 5x7 for the focal distances I use for interior shots- about 10-20ft subject to lens distance. At least, looking through the ground glass it seems to cover more than adequately, I haven't actually exposed film with that combination yet so I can't be certain about the corners yet.
 
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keithostertag

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The only reason for a recessed lensboard is to allow movements. And a Tessar design doens't throw a big enough field, so why are you doing this?

Since I don't plan to use this lens at infinity focus, the coverage seems to be adequate. Even focusing at relatively close distances I still couldn't get the lens close enough to the film plane, thus the need for a recessed lens board.
 

Dan Fromm

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Keith, thanks for the reply. Have you tried the really stupid Cambo trick?

These days I shoot a hybrid Cambo. 2x3 front standard, tapered bellows, 4x5 rear standard. Sound familiar? It is roughly a 5/8 scale SC-3.

The really stupid trick is reversing the rear standard. When I do this and use the ridiculous tapered bag bellows I made the hybrid will focus a 35/4.5 Apo Grandagon on a flat board to infinity. Because the rear standard is reversed the back can be attached to the function carrier only in portrait orientation. Shooting landscape requires rotating the rail 90 degrees in the tripod mounting block.

I don't know how thick the SC-3 bellows is when fully compressed. It might be limiting.

About the ridiculous tapered bag bellows. Two 10" (or are they 12"? I'm to lazy to go upstairs and measure) squares of 1 mm neoprene as used to make wet suits, a 2x3 Cambo board and a 4x5 Cambo board cut out to make bellows frames, cement, and sew the bag's edges as well as cement them.
 

Rick A

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Good bit of handy work, I may have to steal the idea. You will need a Gepe flex adapter like this to bend the cable release inside the can.
003.JPG

This is my 90mm WA on my home made lens board for my B&J 5x7, it's only a 6mm recess, but I didn't even need that to use the lens. I may make a slightly deeper one, but only to utilize more front movements.
001.JPG 002.JPG
 
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keithostertag

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Thanks Rick- Yea, Dan had mentioned that Gepe flexible release... I see that your package is marked $19.95, but the current B&HPhoto price is about $45!!! Hah!

I think I am going to try something similar to what darkroommike said, only not with gaffer's tape...
 
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keithostertag

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Hey Dan-

The really stupid trick is reversing the rear standard.

Hah! I had totally forgotten about that trick! Thanks for reminding me... that might come in handy... but most of my shots are landscape orientation. My tapered bellows works fine for this with no problems.

Here's a shot to show you how close the standards are when using this lens... in this shot I'm using this 4 3/8" Tessar focused at infinity using my 2" recessed board. Of course it doesn't cover 5x7 at infinity. With this short of a lens, this amount of standard separation is really not much different than when shooting at a subject-to-camera distance of about 8-10ft... so yea, I'm gonna lose the corners even for interior shots.

recessed_lensboard9.jpg
 
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Dan Fromm

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Keith, that's nothing I haven't seen before. But it rings an alarm bell.

Are you sure y'r 4 3/8" Tessar is in good order? I ask because its flange-to-film distance should be > 4" and I believe that even with the standards facing normally -- no really stupid trick involved -- the back and board should be closer than that.
 

Rick A

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Thanks Rick- Yea, Dan had mentioned that Gepe flexible release... I see that your package is marked $19.95, but the current B&HPhoto price is about $45!!! Hah!

I bought this for my Calumet CC-401 so I could use a 105 on it, used it a couple of times in the deep recessed lens board, thought it a PITA to use. I found it difficult to set the lens in the deep board, sold the lens and board, then sold the camera. I haven't needed a recessed board since, this has sat on a shelf for several years now.
 
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keithostertag

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Keith, that's nothing I haven't seen before. But it rings an alarm bell.

Are you sure y'r 4 3/8" Tessar is in good order? I ask because its flange-to-film distance should be > 4" and I believe that even with the standards facing normally -- no really stupid trick involved -- the back and board should be closer than that.
Hi Dan-

Well... no I have never used this lens before... but so far it seems OK. I apologize... maybe I should have shown the whole photo...

Here is a shot of the same setup but focused at 8ft. Yes, the flange to groundglass is a little over 4". That seem right, now? The first photo may have been a bit deceptive.
recessed_lensboard10.jpg
Thanks for your comments!
 
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keithostertag

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Ah geez.... how embarrassing! Not very observant, am I?

But thanks for catching that and alerting me!

Damn, that foot hurts!
 

Dan Fromm

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Well, you're not the first person who didn't read the manual. Haven't been burnt enough, I guess. I've been burn enough ... I think.
 
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