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fotoobscura

fotoobscura

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Well I may be a little confused, but when I look at those photographs above I see the emulsion side *down* of the APS against the 35mm "apron". If you put the emulsion side "up" (which obviously you need to do) then the curl is going the wrong way making it nearly impossible to load. Yes I have plenty of clear 35mm film that's perfectly flat as an apron...I spent 20 minutes in a dark bag trying to load it emulsion side out and it was impossible to get it straight enough to wind into the reel.

Lag is this theoretical or have you done this?

Thanks for the tips!
FO

Apart from the question Mattking mentioned above, did you use a blank 135 film?, did you pre-wash thoroughly? ... I've never had an issue. I'm sorry to hear that fotoobscura.
 

LAG

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Well I may be a little confused, but when I look at those photographs above I see the emulsion side *down* of the APS against the 35mm "apron". If you put the emulsion side "up" (which obviously you need to do) then the curl is going the wrong way making it nearly impossible to load. Yes I have plenty of clear 35mm film that's perfectly flat as an apron...I spent 20 minutes in a dark bag trying to load it emulsion side out and it was impossible to get it straight enough to wind into the reel.

Lag is this theoretical or have you done this?

Thanks for the tips!
FO

Excuse me fotoobscura

Those photographs above were exclusively an example without any further explanation of a DIY (and obviously with an exposed film), though you can see that I use stainless steel reels in stainless steel tanks (most of the times, but always when colour chemicals are involved) and never had a problem with film sticking, they're also better for inspection and to "feel" the film (in my opinion). Besides, another thing you might take into condideration (as I see it by the time you´ve spent with the bag) is doing it in a darkroom with more free "and clean" space to handle with that "sandwich".

Of course, you will always have the option to use a "plastic belt" to avoid that artisan blind work but good news is, now you have learned (despite your final dissatisfaction) that it is possible, and if it is your first APS film developed, now you have some film to work with for trial/error, but one last thing, as you already know as well, unfortunately this film system came to an end, I do not wish to be discouraging with your learning with all this developing thing, and I don't want to disappoint you (or I should not like to be responsible of any other future problems), so should you have some important exposures to deal with, send them to a lab.

I'm glad you liked the idea, and glad you proved it. You have nothing for which to be grateful (you're welcome)

Short answer to your question: Yes, I've done this before of course

The long story with APS: (you can skip this) I started with this film System in 1998 when I bought my first APS Camera, a Konica Revio (and 10 films at the same time with her) - years later I had also bought a Kodak C400 (but the Kodak die on active service, not so the Revio, which is in perfect conditions after all these years despite of having even much more service) Although I sent the very first film to a Lab (from Lab to Lab ...) once in my hand the canister was obviously investigated, emasculated, disemboweled, quartered, and beheaded, to learn everything about it.

2015 aps3-2.jpg


From that date on, all the films (I have worked with this type of films: (ISO | Exp | Brands). 200/400 | 15/25/40 | QSS/Fuji/Kodak) were developed at home both C-41 chemicals and B&W (crossed), up to Oct 2014, when I decided to sent again my last film (exposed) to the same Lab, and stop using this film system (though I still have the camera and two exipred films ...). The End
 
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fotoobscura

fotoobscura

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Thank you very much for the long response. You've inspired me to try again!


Excuse me fotoobscura

Those photographs above were exclusively an example without any further explanation of a DIY (and obviously with an exposed film), though you can see that I use stainless steel reels in stainless steel tanks (most of the times, but always when colour chemicals are involved) and never had a problem with film sticking, they're also better for inspection and to "feel" the film (in my opinion). Besides, another thing you might take into condideration (as I see it by the time you´ve spent with the bag) is doing it in a darkroom with more free "and clean" space to handle with that "sandwich".

Of course, you will always have the option to use a "plastic belt" to avoid that artisan blind work but good news is, now you have learned (despite your final dissatisfaction) that it is possible, and if it is your first APS film developed, now you have some film to work with for trial/error, but one last thing, as you already know as well, unfortunately this film system came to an end, I do not wish to be discouraging with your learning with all this developing thing, and I don't want to disappoint you (or I should not like to be responsible of any other future problems), so should you have some important exposures to deal with, send them to a lab.

I'm glad you liked the idea, and glad you proved it. You have nothing for which to be grateful (you're welcome)

Short answer to your question: Yes, I've done this before of course

The long story with APS: (you can skip this) I started with this film System in 1998 when I bought my first APS Camera, a Konica Revio (and 10 films at the same time with her) - years later I had also bought a Kodak C400 (but the Kodak die on active service, not so the Revio, which is in perfect conditions after all these years despite of having even much more service) Although I sent the very first film to a Lab (from Lab to Lab ...) once in my hand the canister was obviously investigated, emasculated, disemboweled, quartered, and beheaded, to learn everything about it.

View attachment 167513

From that date on, all the films (I have worked with this type of films: (ISO | Exp | Brands). 200/400 | 15/25/40 | QSS/Fuji/Kodak) were developed at home both C-41 chemicals and B&W (crossed), up to Oct 2014, when I decided to sent again my last film (exposed) to the same Lab, and stop using this film system (though I still have the camera and two exipred films ...). The End
 

Helios 1984

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If it can be of any help to someone, here's what I did to develop and scan APS.
I used a processed film as a gauge and a rubber band to secure the appropriate width on my universal reel.


OjauXv5.jpg


Inside the changing bag, I opened the gate of the cartridge with a small flat screwdriver, unwound a length of the film and proceeded to load it on the reel. I went smoothly.

VXZodRo.jpg


lXPSI9u.jpg


I left about 2 inches of film protruding from the cartridge, and reattached the processed negative after it dried.

Qb3gi0M.jpg


Finally, I batch scanned the entire cartridge with my Minolta AD-10 adapter.

IKvCeol.jpg


XoQMiph.jpg
 
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