Home developing APS...

fotoobscura

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I'm trying to find a fairly repeatable and reliable way to home develop APS. I used to have this thing I bought 15 years ago called a "lasagna reel" which didn't care what sort of film you were developing up to 35mm. It was sort of a brilliant invention. Unfortunately it's not around anymore as far as I can tell.

There's also some manual reel hacking I've seen people do to regular Omega reels but I had ruined two trying to copy the modification.

I then came across a pretty cheap and poorly constructed manually adjustable reel that should theoretically fit any size- however it's proven impossible to properly load APS into it repeatedly..Yankee reel or something...Real junk..

Was wondering if anyone has come across something fairly simple that'll repeatedly and reliably load APS for home developing...

Thanks!
 

desertrat

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Don't know how long a roll of APS film is, but if it's not too long, you might be able to see-saw process it in bowls of chemistry.

People developed roll film this way during the Depression if they couldn't afford tanks.

It has to be done in total darkness, of course.

I developed a roll of 122 film back in the early '70s this way because it wouldn't fit in my reels or tank.
 
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fotoobscura

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I thought about that but I'm not set up to do that sort of tray size in pure darkness. I'd need to get the world's largest changing bag :\

I do recall hearing about news photographer's back in the day developing the film in the canister. It seems like a very risky and uneven operation but I suppose if you agitate the hell out of it the chemistry may make it through the rolled up layers?

I actually just got through to the son of the inventor of the Lasagna Reel- he may have a few laying around.

Thanks!

 

StoneNYC

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APS should be the same as 110, just get a 110 reel.

I sold off a bunch of them a few months back, I think they are all gone but I can check, but there are a few on eBay I'm sure.
 

LAG

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fotoobscura said:
... Was wondering if anyone has come across something fairly simple that'll repeatedly and reliably load APS for home developing...

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Excuse me

You'll need a changing bag, two small pieces of adhesive tape and a entire 135 roll (already processed and completely blank if possible). You only have to stick the APS film to the 135 film in both ends (at least the leader) there you can go now with the 135 reel. As simple as that!

Good luck!
 

AgX

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Such intermediate film for processing is intendeded for films of the same width, by that keeping front and back free.
Using such with films of smaller width most likely will result in not correctly processed films.

It might work with a too narrow film strip, if the film proper and the spacing film are wound together, both resting with one edge on a flat surface, so that by this at least one film edge is cought between the protrusions of the spacer film.
 
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MattKing

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StoneNYC said:
APS should be the same as 110, just get a 110 reel.

I sold off a bunch of them a few months back, I think they are all gone but I can check, but there are a few on eBay I'm sure.
Click to expand...
APS film is 24mm wide while 110 film is 16mm wide, so a 110 reel won't help.

By way of comparison, 135 film stock is 35mm wide (including rebate and sprockets) - thus the name.

The "lasagna reel" (more accurately a 35mm film apron) might work if you use very little agitation.
 
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DWThomas

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There was (there was a url link here which no longer exists) about a year ago. At post #9 in that thread I show an FR plastic tank set for an APS width. I had to remove the stainless steel hook that normally resides on the spindle between the two spiral reels to get them close enough.

I admit I have never actually tried to load it with an APS film, said films aren't terribly long, so it might be possible to push it in from the end of the spiral grooves if everything is dry and clean. Flexing the film and winding it on might be tough, as the ribs of the spiral are pretty deep (plus the hook normally used to spear the end of the film cant be used with the tight reel spacing). I do own a set of the tools for opening the cartridge and spitting out the film, acquired via ePrey to do some sc@nning a few years back. Of course all this has to happen in the dark!

I've no idea how the FR compares with the Yankee the OP mentioned,
 

pdeeh

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I tried developing film in lasagne, but the ragù kept sticking to the highlights, and it made the shadows very muddy
 

darkroommike

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StoneNYC said:
APS should be the same as 110, just get a 110 reel.

I sold off a bunch of them a few months back, I think they are all gone but I can check, but there are a few on eBay I'm sure.
Click to expand...
APS is not the same as 110 or 16mm, APS is 23mm wide, much wider than 110 and 16mm which are both 16mm wide. As far as home processing you will probably need to make your own reel.
 

darkroommike

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APS film is 23mm wide, it can be removed from the cassette with a screwdriver.

The "lasagna rolls" Kodak film processing aprons come in three sizes: 35mm/828, 127, and 620/120. Odds are if you used one with another size film you will scratch the film. I just picked up a couple on Ebay, new in box, so if that's the way you want to go you'll find one eventually.

In the past I have successfully modified Paterson reels for 110 with nothing more than a hacksaw and some silicon glue, there are all kings of FAQ's and Youtube videos on the modification process, just remember that your end objective is a 23mm spacing not 16mm.
 

ic-racer

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APS is the perfectly crafted dead-end. Depending on the effect you want, you might consider 'bucket' development that has seen some popularity with the experimental movie makers.
 

railwayman3

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Having acquired quite a stock of APS film a few years ago, I have been gradually working my way through it, and have looked into home processing. However, this seems almost impossible without a lot of fiddling and risk of damage, or very good luck in finding an original 24mm reel, so I've settled on having the films processed to negative only, then either printing or scanning the negs myself.

There are still a few small labs which can deal with APS (e.g. Photo Express in Hull for those in the UK, who do very good and consistent quality work on 35mm as well), and the cost is quite low and fair for process-only.

And, of course, as ic-racer indicates, APS is a dead-end, as when film stocks are gone, that's that.
 
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fotoobscura

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I tried it last night and got a very uneven development. I had high hopes alas the APS film gets squashed against the 35mm film and prevents development. Even if I tape it loosely this happens.
 

MattKing

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fotoobscura said:
I tried it last night and got a very uneven development. I had high hopes alas the APS film gets squashed against the 35mm film and prevents development. Even if I tape it loosely this happens.
Click to expand...
Did you have the wrong side of the film against the 35mm? It should be done with the emulsion of the APS away from the 35mm backing.
You may need to tape it in more places.
The 35mm film apron plus taped in APS might work better. A 120 film apron plus taped in APS might be even better.
 

LAG

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fotoobscura said:
I tried it last night and got a very uneven development. I had high hopes alas the APS film gets squashed against the 35mm film and prevents development. Even if I tape it loosely this happens.
Click to expand...

Apart from the question Mattking mentioned above, did you use a blank 135 film?, did you pre-wash thoroughly? ... I've never had an issue. I'm sorry to hear that fotoobscura.
 

AgX

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MattKing said:
The 35mm film apron plus taped in APS might work better. A 120 film apron plus taped in APS might be even better.
Click to expand...
The aprons are intended to be used with film of equal width. thus keeping them from adhering to the apron.
 

AgX

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MattKing said:
The 35mm film apron plus taped in APS might work better. A 120 film apron plus taped in APS might be even better.
Click to expand...

As said:
 
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