Maybe I missed some details. Is there a commercial service to convert the 120 Holga pan to use a 90 Angulon lens? This looks very interesting because I have a 90 f/6.8.
Holga Pan 120 and conversion to Super Angulon 90mm F8 lens
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- Thread starter Simon Benton
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These are all DIY from what I know.
Holga mods used to do them
I think the people behind holgamods have changed or shifted gears. The website seems to be centered on optional bits and upgrades for laser etching/engraving machines.
This is my Holgagon that I built in late 2011. Soon after this was finished my pal built a copy for himself and posted his build online as a DIY article that led to other other photographers building further copies. Unfortunately the old link to this is now kaput.
Any chance it is on the way back machine? It looks like the lens board would be the hard part. All sorts of helicals are available now as well as adapter threads.
Yes, yes and yes. It's auto exposure, you can only cheat with ISO setting. It's only F8 and F16. The Belaigon is glass and the rest is plastic. And yes, I'm still in search for the 90mm Belairgon...
Found it, the .pdf link from my pal who did the step by step guide on building a Holgagon was on a Flickr page from 2012
https://www.flickr.com/groups/1829994@N24/discuss/72157631289153712/
and the direct link to the build .pdf is here
http://freepdfhosting.com/b316cbe2ff.pdf
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That's the pdf file I found and used as my instructions as well. I'm pretty sure that a google search for "holgagon" returns a hit on photrio with that pdf.
here's another typical way I make thing harder on myself. I didn't source that same m42 to Nikon adapter. I went M42 to Canon EF. That outer diameter is slightly bigger than the "face" of the Holga. Oh well, I didn't undertake this project to win any awards.
I sourced my adapter, helicoid and body cap from Amazon (along with some UV led lights for my exposure unit project) I couldn't find all of the needed stuff with US based shipping on ebay.
here's another typical way I make thing harder on myself. I didn't source that same m42 to Nikon adapter. I went M42 to Canon EF. That outer diameter is slightly bigger than the "face" of the Holga. Oh well, I didn't undertake this project to win any awards.
I sourced my adapter, helicoid and body cap from Amazon (along with some UV led lights for my exposure unit project) I couldn't find all of the needed stuff with US based shipping on ebay.
The PDF instruction is a bit more complicated than necessary. For smaller lenses like Angulon 90/6.8 in Copal #0 or Wollensak EWA 90/12.5 in Alphax, all you need to do is just remove the lens/shutter assembly and slightly enlarge the hole. I used the following 3 simple components:
1) M30 or M32.5 to M42 adapter. You screw the lens directly onto the 30mm or 32.5mm thread.
2) M42 focusing helicoid (15-27mm or 17-31mm)
3) M42 mounting flange with 4 screws (or M42 to M52 adapter as a mounting ring)
I did not need to touch anything on the top, back or inside. It is much cleaner and more friendly for novices.
1) M30 or M32.5 to M42 adapter. You screw the lens directly onto the 30mm or 32.5mm thread.
2) M42 focusing helicoid (15-27mm or 17-31mm)
3) M42 mounting flange with 4 screws (or M42 to M52 adapter as a mounting ring)
I did not need to touch anything on the top, back or inside. It is much cleaner and more friendly for novices.
I read the .PDF article and also was perplexed why he disassembled the entire camera. I have an Anglulon 6.8 but need to measure if the mount ring is 30mm or 32.5 mm. I have had a Pentax helical ring for years. How does the Holga 120 work with its native lens?
There is a difference between doing it as a cut-n-shut job like a cheap garage and doing it to properly. There are a lot of things wrong about the camera itself that simply bolting a great lens onto the front doesn't resolve other than to keep it in the novelty camera category. And no, a Pentax helical doesn't work. How does a Holga work with it's native lens, lol, the difference is like taking the basic $100 piece of crap and sticking another lens on the front and being able to make $3500 camera photographs.
Of course much film photography nowadays is about the performance involved and getting any sort of image is treated as a major success, rather than the actual image quality, I understand that.
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The tone of the pdf instructions sound like that particular person was paranoid regarding debris and wanted to work on the "face" of the camera completely separate from the rest.
I like how the wind action feels out of the box, and I did not want to mess with that, so my version is the cut-n-shut job.
If I have to ammend something after a test roll, so be it. I have a vague feeling that using the copal 0 to m42 adapter I found will net me another couple mm with which I could possibly use a different helicoid mount. Again, only a test roll will tell the tale.
I like how the wind action feels out of the box, and I did not want to mess with that, so my version is the cut-n-shut job.
If I have to ammend something after a test roll, so be it. I have a vague feeling that using the copal 0 to m42 adapter I found will net me another couple mm with which I could possibly use a different helicoid mount. Again, only a test roll will tell the tale.
I have bought a Holga 120 WPC (Wide Pinhole Camera), a long time ago, in hopes that a 3D-printable model of the lens cone for a 90mm lens would be available…
I am almost sure I saw this some time ago, but now I can’t find it!
I tried to contact Randy to check if he had any, but I think he’s not answering emails about Holgas anymore.
Any ideas? I have no idea how to design this, but maybe that’s the way… any pointers are welcome!
Cheers,
Flavio
I am almost sure I saw this some time ago, but now I can’t find it!
I tried to contact Randy to check if he had any, but I think he’s not answering emails about Holgas anymore.
Any ideas? I have no idea how to design this, but maybe that’s the way… any pointers are welcome!
Cheers,
Flavio
I think the Holga WPC needs a bit more customization for this swap. The Holga 120pan is the easier path from what I have read.
Maybe you could use a focus helicoid with a long throw? Or some type of top hat type adapter like the ones for Technika style lens boards?
Maybe you could use a focus helicoid with a long throw? Or some type of top hat type adapter like the ones for Technika style lens boards?
Yes, the 120 Pan would be so much easier. Maybe I should just buy one and sell the pinhole.
The helicoid is a possibility…initially, I was planning on making the camera fixed focus. Anyway, at 90mm from the film plane, a straight “pipe” won’t work, as it will vignette. A cone — or like you said, something like a hat — would work. But then there’s a need for spacers and shims all over.
Maybe I should try and learn 3D modeling.
Maybe I should try and learn 3D modeling.
If you do, I'll throw in a recommendation for OpenSCAD. A completely script-based modeling tool was a revelation to this fellow that's been programming professionally for 20+ years. It's radically different than tools like Blender or FreeCAD in which you interact directly with the 3D model. Not everyone's cup of tea, but perfectly suited to my predilections. It removed a huge barrier to creating my own models for 3D printing of various camera bits.
Thanks for the recommendation!
I have some very limited 3D-modeling experience, mainly spline-based. I can write computer programs in a variety of languages. So, a “rule-based” approach may work better for me.
I also thought of cutting a bigger “window” in the front of the Holga, attaching a sliding bed in front of the body (to hold the lens board, shutter and lens), then building a bellows to connect the lens assembly to the body.
I'm still waiting on my 2 copal to M42 adapters. I guess I can't hold all international shipping to the same expectations I have when I order things from Japan.
I tracked my item though and they are finally within the system in Seattle.
I guess I should decide whether my "Holgago" (Holga-Congo) needs a faux snake-skin wrap or not.
I was also thinking about some sort of "small-rig" like grip assenbly both to give it a bit more weight and to have a couple more tripod lug locations.
I tracked my item though and they are finally within the system in Seattle.
I guess I should decide whether my "Holgago" (Holga-Congo) needs a faux snake-skin wrap or not.
I was also thinking about some sort of "small-rig" like grip assenbly both to give it a bit more weight and to have a couple more tripod lug locations.
In various threads, I keep seeing references to testing infinty focus on things 1/2 mile or more away. Is this necessary? From my back patio and due to topography, I can only test at about 450 yards.
The ground glass for my Tomiyama art 170 fits neatly into the Holgapan film plane for testing.
As others have noted, the tripod socket on the holgapan needs some help. I don't own any Arca compatible QR plates right now, and the Manfrotto plates seem slightly resistant to modifications.
The ground glass for my Tomiyama art 170 fits neatly into the Holgapan film plane for testing.
As others have noted, the tripod socket on the holgapan needs some help. I don't own any Arca compatible QR plates right now, and the Manfrotto plates seem slightly resistant to modifications.
IMHO 450 yards should be sufficient, 1/2 a mile or just 1/2 a km are often said to be fine and always did it for me. The tripod socket on the housing worked fine for me. seen the weight of the camera you don't neeed a big tripod. Why do you think it should need help?
I know it's a "toy" camera by design, and we are just giving them better optics. To me, there's a ton of flex present when mounted to a tripod. with careful use, it's likely fine. I read about someone having the tripod socket break out of the bottom of the camera (I think that was due to a near fall or some other mishap).
I'm really only headed down the further support road so that when sitting on a table, it sits flat and doesn't lean on the lens.
I'm really only headed down the further support road so that when sitting on a table, it sits flat and doesn't lean on the lens.
For distances much longer than the focal length, roughly the extension past infinity is e = f^2 / subject_distance. So with a 90mm lens, and an extension of 0.1mm, the subject distance is 81 meters. Realistically you probably aren't going to set the film plane more accurately than 0.1mm or so (nor do you need to, with the depth of focus at slow apertures). So distances of about 100 meters (~ football field) should be fine. Advice that says the subject has to be 0.5 miles is either trying to be unusually precise or covering all circumstances including long telephoto lenses - it matters more for longer focal lengths.
Thank you. Hopefully I'll have time this weekend to put this project to bed and get a test roll exposed.
I finally have mine together enough for a test roll, can someone help me out with film loading (frame numbers). I keep reading conflicting information. I also can't see the numbers on the backing paper which is going to be a bigger issue. Like a goof, I take all packaging off and use a JCH 5-roll case. The film is 100 speed and has black backing paper. The start arrow was nice and bright so I assumed the numbers would be as well.
The most common thing I've seen is place slider in "12" position and expose on odd numbers; 1,3,5,7,9 Is this the correct sequence for 6x12 ?
The most common thing I've seen is place slider in "12" position and expose on odd numbers; 1,3,5,7,9 Is this the correct sequence for 6x12 ?
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