Here we go...brand new to staining developers and I have questions...

[MVNelson]

I use TF4 for all pyrocat, pmk and prescysol-ef(very much like pyrocat imho) negatives and have been happy. That said, I ran out for a week and took a chance and processed pyrocat-mc negs in hypam(ilford) and saw no visible difference in stain or quality of the negatives. Since then I recieved my TF4 and returned to it. The TF4 is a bit costly comparatively speaking but maybe a little more piece of mind since I don't want to spend time doing exhaustive test to see if it matters .

 

[PHOTOTONE]

I use TF4 for PMKwith much success.. Acid is said not only to affect stain, but can cause pinholes. Of cource this is subject to the normal discission.

I recently started using WD2D+ and it turned my fixer orange. Still trying to figure that one out.

i use WD2D and KODAK RAPID FIX without the hardener, and a multiple water rinse stop bath, and my fixer turns orange. It doesn't affect the fixing or the quality of my negatives, which print beautifully.

 

[mrtoml]

In my opinion, you can use other alkaline stop and fixers as well. Moreover, I do not understand the constant agitation for several minutes. In a fresh (new) TF3, the negatives will clear within 30 seconds without all that agitation.

Jed

That's what is says in the monochrome photography instructions so that's what I've been doing - constant agitation for about 4 minutes on average. They also suggest extended fixing times. Ie twice the clearing time (suggesting 3 minutes with fresh). They also suggest that used fix shouldn't be kept longer than 24 hours although I keep mine longer otherwise it would get more expensive.

 

[lee]

I have used TF 4 and Kodak Rapid Fix for PMK and Pyrocat without the hardner. I see no difference in the film or stain or prints.

lee\c

 

[fhovie]

The ph of TF3 (like TF4) is about 8. It is the acid that strips off the stain. I know that regular sodium thiosulfate did remove stain on my pyro negs when I did not know any better

 

[ZoneIII]

Yes, wear gloves. It's poison. But if you are developing sheet film in trays, that's easier said than done. In fact, the first time I tried it, the films just slipped and slided and I coudn't get a grip on them so I had to take off the gloves and get my hands in the Pyro. But that's not a good idea. Since then, when I develop sheet film in Pyro, I do it in dip & dunk tanks. Also, from my experience, you can simply ignore Gordon Hutching's advice to never develop sheet film with Pyro in tanks. I have never experienced the problems he mentions. In addition to that, you can also ignore his advice for developing sheet film (with pyro) in trays that you should have the sheets emulsion side down. Not only does that advice not make logical sense, but it simply did not prove to be accurate in my own testing. But I suppose his advice might be based on the particular way he agitates his sheets.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

I, like many other LF photographers (Michael A. Smith and Paula Chamlee, for example) develop film in trays with Pyrogallol and Pyrocatechol developers, EMULSION SIDE UP. Most of us use Nitrile Gloves with textured fingertips - they are great for handling and shufflling multiple sheets of wet film. Disposable Nitrile gloves provide excellent skin protection during film and paper development and fixing.

 

[jstraw]

Thanks for the tips. I have plans to use hangers and tanks.

 

[jstraw]

Hmmm...nitrile goves with textured fingertips...mental note for when I've gone through the 150 pairs without textured fingertips that I just bought...

 

[Scott Peters]

It's easy with Nitrile gloves - WalMart has them - cheap. EFKE film and no scratches. Emulsion side up. A few tricks, but you can get it in one or two tries. Don't let negs float in water. Use the smallest tray possible, that way corners don't 'float' on you and cause scratches.