• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Help: Diagnose exposure problem 35mm negative

Do Not Come Here

A
Do Not Come Here

  • 5
  • 3
  • 49
Heavy

H
Heavy

  • 11
  • 5
  • 107

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
201,921
Messages
2,832,085
Members
101,018
Latest member
andycapp
Recent bookmarks
0
OP
OP
trythis

trythis

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Sep 26, 2013
Messages
1,208
Location
St Louis
Format
35mm
I think you have it Polyglot. I have seen the streaks from the sprocket holes and knew I was overdoing it so I guess I went too far the other way, plus I did fill the tank till I was over the light baffle.

Again, thanks, that makes the most sense to me so far...I will try these tips next time! I will post results and I an glad it is most likely not the camera.
 

Xmas

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Sep 4, 2006
Messages
6,398
Location
UK
Format
35mm RF
I just scanned the last roll from the same tank and it looks like I have more of this but it seems isolated to the middle of the tank or the end of the roll that gets loaded first.

I am using stainless steel.

It appears equally frequent with the reels in the bottom and the top of the tank but maybe top reel was slightly worse on the innermost image. There was a double exposure like the roll had been removed and reinserted in the camera on that first shot though, so don't read too much into that.


Wouldn't light leaks effect the rebate?

I am starting to think developing.

Would slightly old developer do this? My D76 stock is December 20 dated but was clear and worked fine with a clip test.

A leak through the shutter or into the mirror box won't affect the rebates. A back door leak can.

A shutter leak could bleed out of frame into rebate boundaries as could overexposure.

local over development would also over develope rebate text as well - especially in steel tank.

Over development wont be correlated with pictures shutter leaks will.

A light box is useful for looking at negatives or even a table lamp.

Try a cheap C41 film if you need confirmation.


'
 
OP
OP
trythis

trythis

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Sep 26, 2013
Messages
1,208
Location
St Louis
Format
35mm
A light box is useful for looking at negatives or even a table lamp.

Try a cheap C41 film if you need confirmation.


'
I do have a light table from a while back...finally a use for it.
I plan on using some of that wallmart Fuji for my camera test roll. I still have a couple rolls of b&w from the FG to do the developer technique tests.
 

polyglot

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Jun 12, 2009
Messages
3,467
Location
South Australia
Format
Medium Format
I think you have it Polyglot. I have seen the streaks from the sprocket holes and knew I was overdoing it so I guess I went too far the other way, plus I did fill the tank till I was over the light baffle.

Again, thanks, that makes the most sense to me so far...I will try these tips next time! I will post results and I an glad it is most likely not the camera.

When a nice big chunk of air passes through the spiral, all of the developer gets shoved right out of the way and you don't get flow marks even if you're agitating quite roughly. You also don't need to be super-vigorous in the agitation because it's the motion of the air that's doing your work for you. If the tank is overfull and the air can't displace the developer away from the film, then you get flow marks near the sprocket holes. In that case, it's not the bubble shoving all the developer aside, it's just a trickle of developer coming through the holes, which is why you can see the effect.

If there's not enough air in the tank, you're either going to get streaking from flow marks or uneven development across the frame depending on how you agitate; you might even get lucky and have both.

The need for air in the tank is of course a problem if you want to use high dilutions (large volume of working solution in order to meet the minimum-concentrate requirement) in small tanks. If you're using D76 1+3 in order to reduce the solvent effect, then you probably should choose a different developer with less solvent effect, e.g. Rodinal (no solvent, all the sharpness and grain) or Xtol (has solvent but doesn't soften the image as much as D76). Perhaps HC-110 but I'm not really familiar with it.
 
OP
OP
trythis

trythis

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Sep 26, 2013
Messages
1,208
Location
St Louis
Format
35mm
The need for air in the tank is of course a problem if you want to use high dilutions (large volume of working solution in order to meet the minimum-concentrate requirement) in small tanks. If you're using D76 1+3 in order to reduce the solvent effect, then you probably should choose a different developer with less solvent effect, e.g. Rodinal (no solvent, all the sharpness and grain) or Xtol (has solvent but doesn't soften the image as much as D76). Perhaps HC-110 but I'm not really familiar with it.

I dont even know what solvent effect is... I just dilute to conserve materials. I am not asking you to explain, I can look it up.

I have read about minimum concentration and when I use a single roll tank I use stock D76 or a high concentration of HC110 but for the 4 reel tank, its the lower concentration.
Hc110 I typically use on some 50 year old Tri-X in dilution D (and some fog reducer) with very cold water. I plan to stop using D76 after I run out and stick with HC110 because I have nearly 400 feet of the old film to use. My Hc110 bottle will last quite a while. Anyway, that gives you some idea of my lack of experience.

I am probably going about this a bit carelessly; I see s many Apugers' more scientific approaches. I am getting there, but I seem to only look for more instruction when I run into issues. I will take lots of notes next time around.
 

Xmas

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Sep 4, 2006
Messages
6,398
Location
UK
Format
35mm RF
If you get sprocket hole effects it can be fixer exhaustion as well as development problems.

I never bother agitating. I have read the Kodak technique, thought that risible.

For stop, hypo clear and wash I inversion agitate with a 90% full tank.

1+3 will give subtle differences but 16x20 side by side maybe just detectably.
 

Xmas

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Sep 4, 2006
Messages
6,398
Location
UK
Format
35mm RF
I take your point but they were about to pull out of film yesterday and if you care to read their last procedure and are not able to laugh you are way too credible.
 
OP
OP
trythis

trythis

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Sep 26, 2013
Messages
1,208
Location
St Louis
Format
35mm
I developed another set of negatives and the problem persists. No way its an agitation problem from this roll, and the inconsistent issues continue. I developed in a 4 reel tank with three rolls and left plenty of air space for complete wash down of the developer. I dont think any indoor shots have the problem and not all outdoor shots. It looks like bright sunny conditions are required.

Could it be a slow or bouncing shutter over exposing the bottom more often than the top?

If it overexposes more often on the bottom of the camera when in landscape and equally over exposed on both long sides when in portrait position, would that also fit the possible shutter issue?
14-65-021.jpg

I am trying to work with the seller for a warranty claim. I have a roll of C41 to take to the lab to completely rule out developing issues, but I have never had this problem with any other camera.
 
OP
OP
trythis

trythis

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Sep 26, 2013
Messages
1,208
Location
St Louis
Format
35mm
One last thought. Is there any possibility this could be caused by sticky aperture blades in a lens? I dont see that problem on other cameras, but thought I would bring it up.
 

Arvee

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Aug 23, 2006
Messages
976
Location
Great Basin
Format
Multi Format
I developed another set of negatives and the problem persists. No way its an agitation problem from this roll, and the inconsistent issues continue. I developed in a 4 reel tank with three rolls and left plenty of air space for complete wash down of the developer. I dont think any indoor shots have the problem and not all outdoor shots. It looks like bright sunny conditions are required.

Could it be a slow or bouncing shutter over exposing the bottom more often than the top?

If it overexposes more often on the bottom of the camera when in landscape and equally over exposed on both long sides when in portrait position, would that also fit the possible shutter issue?
View attachment 93050

I am trying to work with the seller for a warranty claim. I have a roll of C41 to take to the lab to completely rule out developing issues, but I have never had this problem with any other camera.

I took a look at my FG and judging from your negs, I'm going with a sticky shutter. Possibly someone poked a finger into the shutter blades while loading film and bent them ever so slightly or the CLA person used some cleaner/solvent/lubricant that migrated to the shutter blades. Looks like a slow start and a slow finish when the shutter blades open/close.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom