HC110 made simple.

[NedL]

Interesting so how do people build houses in other metric based countries, or have they simply stopped building houses..

Simple, they order all their nails and building supplies in multiples and fractions of 2.54 cm. It makes the math a little tricky, but it's worth it to keep everything standard.

 

[MattKing]

I bet there are a few here on APUG who have purchased nails by the pound

 

[redrockcoulee]

Interesting so how do people build houses in other metric based countries, or have they simply stopped building houses...


~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

In Canada we build them starting with the foundation, then the subfloor, walls and a roof.

2X4s are still the same size and not 2 by 4 and a sheet of plywood is 4 ft by 8ft. And we did not move our roads around in the grid patern so they are still one mile apart not a kilometer.

I was an adult when the conversion took place and found it confusing for several months but when you use it regularly it makes much more sense. At one time though I knew what a good outdoor temperature was in Celcius but indoor temp in F as we did not change thermostats and in fact my home still is in degrees F.

If I can put a 150mm lens on a 4X5 camera I can work with both systems.

Several years ago I found Jason's 1:49 info and have been using it ever since. Thanks. It would also be useful if people submitted their times for other emulsions at 1:49 as well.

 

[nwilkins]

I don't suppose anyone has discovered developing time with this dilution for Tri-X pushed to 1600? I had to shoot a roll at 1600 today and need to get the results to the client within a day so I don't have time to do my own tests.

thanks!

 

[nwilkins]

actuaslly scratch that - I am realizing that three stops push will already be pretty long even with the dilution B so it wouldnt make sense to use this dilution. duh.

 

[adelorenzo]

I don't suppose anyone has discovered developing time with this dilution for Tri-X pushed to 1600? I had to shoot a roll at 1600 today and need to get the results to the client within a day so I don't have time to do my own tests.

thanks!

Using the 1:49 dilution I developed Tri-X @1600 for 16 minutes, agitate every couple of minutes. It turned out pretty decent although quite contrasty. If I do it again I might try agitating even less.

Also 400 -> 1600 is only a two-stop push.

Here are a couple of samples:


Meat the Vegans by Dead Link Removed, on Flickr


River Runner by Dead Link Removed, on Flickr

 

[Fixcinater]

Anthony, it seems like it is hard to fight the contrasty light at most concerts, which makes pushing an even slipperier slope. Nice results! My brother has a 9 Zero fat bike in Anchorage, just went for the first ride of the year today. Sounds like fun but I'd be hard-pressed to find enough snow here in San Diego.

 

[nwilkins]

yes sorry "three stops" was a typo!

 

[adelorenzo]

Anthony, it seems like it is hard to fight the contrasty light at most concerts, which makes pushing an even slipperier slope. Nice results! My brother has a 9 Zero fat bike in Anchorage, just went for the first ride of the year today. Sounds like fun but I'd be hard-pressed to find enough snow here in San Diego.

Thanks! I was pretty happy about it myself, especially as I was shooting a 200mm F4 lens at 1/30 handheld.

We're still in the fat bike optional season around these parts, which is seriously late not to have a lot of snow on the ground.

 

[jcoldslabs]

Don't forget, that 1.5 ml of concentrate per sheet means just 48 ml of dilution B per sheet.

For this to be meaningful for developing a single sheet, you need a tank that will ensure even immersion and development flow with just 48 ml of developer - I don't think that such a beast exists.

This is an old thread, I realize, but I wanted to add a correction. I develop all of my B&W 4x5 sheets in Cibachrome 4x5 drums. These only hold 40ml of solution so I have standardized my HC-110 dilution at 1:39. I get perfectly even negatives with this set-up and have yet to process one so dense that it exhausted the 1 ml of concentrate per single sheet.

So yes, this beast exists!

Jonathan

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

HC-110 is so versatile

Using the 1:49 dilution I developed Tri-X @1600 for 16 minutes, agitate every couple of minutes. It turned out pretty decent although quite contrasty. If I do it again I might try agitating even less.

Also 400 -> 1600 is only a two-stop push.

Here are a couple of samples:


Meat the Vegans by Dead Link Removed, on Flickr


River Runner by Dead Link Removed, on Flickr

You can do stand development 1:100 from concentrate to tame contrast.

 

[Kevin Harding]

You can do stand development 1:100 from concentrate to tame contrast.

I've also done 1:150 semi stand (Dilution J) or 1:250 (Dilution M) with success for some gorgeous tonality.

 

[MattKing]

This is an old thread, I realize, but I wanted to add a correction. I develop all of my B&W 4x5 sheets in Cibachrome 4x5 drums. These only hold 40ml of solution so I have standardized my HC-110 dilution at 1:39. I get perfectly even negatives with this set-up and have yet to process one so dense that it exhausted the 1 ml of concentrate per single sheet.

So yes, this beast exists!

Jonathan

What a great idea!

I stand corrected!

 

[mikebarger]

Why is it we all talk about time and dilution, but never mention temp?

 

[StoneNYC]

Why is it we all talk about time and dilution, but never mention temp?

It's assumed the temp is 68/20 degrees unless otherwise specified

 

[Photo-gear]

Why is it we all talk about time and dilution, but never mention temp?

Unless there is something unusual with the combo developer + film, the temperature chart says it all.

 

[Roger Cole]

It's assumed the temp is 68/20 degrees unless otherwise specified

Pet peeve of mine too - you'll never get close to that in summer here without a water chiller. I settled on 75F because I can (almost - occasionally ambient solutions will be 76-77 in the worst of summer heat) always use my Jobo to heat UP to that temperature.

Fortunately Ilford publishes a neat chart that makes equivalent conversion for starting points simple, then after the initial conversion I fine tune as usual except using 75F.

 

[mikebarger]

Unless there is something unusual with the combo developer + film, the temperature chart says it all.

Most of the quotes are not referencing a chart, they are proclaiming what works for them.

 

[StoneNYC]

Pet peeve of mine too - you'll never get close to that in summer here without a water chiller. I settled on 75F because I can (almost - occasionally ambient solutions will be 76-77 in the worst of summer heat) always use my Jobo to heat UP to that temperature.

Fortunately Ilford publishes a neat chart that makes equivalent conversion for starting points simple, then after the initial conversion I fine tune as usual except using 75F.

Wow! Why don't you have an air conditioner?

 

[bdial]

At the risk of answering for Roger, it's probably because the cold water out of the tap is that warm. AC doesn't help much with that.
When I lived in the desert our cold water was as warm as bath water in the summer.

 

[StoneNYC]

At the risk of answering for Roger, it's probably because the cold water out of the tap is that warm. AC doesn't help much with that.
When I lived in the desert our cold water was as warm as bath water in the summer.

But the city water pipes need to be below 6 feet, and if you have a well that would also be WELL below the 6 foot mark and would be cold... all tapwater is about 55 degrees from tap... Just run the water a little bit to get to the colder water? Or am I daft? Unless he has some kind of water from a water bucket on his roof?

 

[MattKing]

But the city water pipes need to be below 6 feet, and if you have a well that would also be WELL below the 6 foot mark and would be cold... all tapwater is about 55 degrees from tap... Just run the water a little bit to get to the colder water? Or am I daft? Unless he has some kind of water from a water bucket on his roof?

Yes Stone, you are daft.

There are lots of places in the world that, during the warm months, have "cold" tap water that is a lot warmer than 55F.

 

[StoneNYC]

Yes Stone, you are daft.

There are lots of places in the world that, during the warm months, have "cold" tap water that is a lot warmer than 55F.

So then they aren't burying their pipes below 6 feet then... Hmmmm... Seems odd ... Ah well, such is life...

 

[MattKing]

So then they aren't burying their pipes below 6 feet then... Hmmmm... Seems odd ... Ah well, such is life...

Nope.

They don't have the type of soil/geology that maintains a cool temperature at that depth, or they cannot bury their pipes in solid rock or ground water.

 

[StoneNYC]

Nope.

They don't have the type of soil/geology that maintains a cool temperature at that depth, or they cannot bury their pipes in solid rock or ground water.

Pft! I live in New England, and we handle rocks just fine, no one has more rocks than us!!