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Simple, they order all their nails and building supplies in multiples and fractions of 2.54 cm. It makes the math a little tricky, but it's worth it to keep everything standard.Interesting so how do people build houses in other metric based countries, or have they simply stopped building houses..
Interesting so how do people build houses in other metric based countries, or have they simply stopped building houses...
~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
I don't suppose anyone has discovered developing time with this dilution for Tri-X pushed to 1600? I had to shoot a roll at 1600 today and need to get the results to the client within a day so I don't have time to do my own tests.
thanks!
Anthony, it seems like it is hard to fight the contrasty light at most concerts, which makes pushing an even slipperier slope. Nice results! My brother has a 9 Zero fat bike in Anchorage, just went for the first ride of the year today. Sounds like fun but I'd be hard-pressed to find enough snow here in San Diego.
Don't forget, that 1.5 ml of concentrate per sheet means just 48 ml of dilution B per sheet.
For this to be meaningful for developing a single sheet, you need a tank that will ensure even immersion and development flow with just 48 ml of developer - I don't think that such a beast exists.
Using the 1:49 dilution I developed Tri-X @1600 for 16 minutes, agitate every couple of minutes. It turned out pretty decent although quite contrasty. If I do it again I might try agitating even less.
Also 400 -> 1600 is only a two-stop push.
Here are a couple of samples:
Meat the Vegans by Dead Link Removed, on Flickr
River Runner by Dead Link Removed, on Flickr
You can do stand development 1:100 from concentrate to tame contrast.
This is an old thread, I realize, but I wanted to add a correction. I develop all of my B&W 4x5 sheets in Cibachrome 4x5 drums. These only hold 40ml of solution so I have standardized my HC-110 dilution at 1:39. I get perfectly even negatives with this set-up and have yet to process one so dense that it exhausted the 1 ml of concentrate per single sheet.
So yes, this beast exists!
Jonathan
Why is it we all talk about time and dilution, but never mention temp?
Unless there is something unusual with the combo developer + film, the temperature chart says it all.Why is it we all talk about time and dilution, but never mention temp?
It's assumed the temp is 68/20 degrees unless otherwise specified
Unless there is something unusual with the combo developer + film, the temperature chart says it all.
Pet peeve of mine too - you'll never get close to that in summer here without a water chiller. I settled on 75F because I can (almost - occasionally ambient solutions will be 76-77 in the worst of summer heat) always use my Jobo to heat UP to that temperature.
Fortunately Ilford publishes a neat chart that makes equivalent conversion for starting points simple, then after the initial conversion I fine tune as usual except using 75F.
At the risk of answering for Roger, it's probably because the cold water out of the tap is that warm. AC doesn't help much with that.
When I lived in the desert our cold water was as warm as bath water in the summer.
But the city water pipes need to be below 6 feet, and if you have a well that would also be WELL below the 6 foot mark and would be cold... all tapwater is about 55 degrees from tap... Just run the water a little bit to get to the colder water? Or am I daft? Unless he has some kind of water from a water bucket on his roof?
Yes Stone, you are daft.
There are lots of places in the world that, during the warm months, have "cold" tap water that is a lot warmer than 55F.
So then they aren't burying their pipes below 6 feet then... Hmmmm... Seems odd ... Ah well, such is life...
Nope.
They don't have the type of soil/geology that maintains a cool temperature at that depth, or they cannot bury their pipes in solid rock or ground water.
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