Can you give us what you have to do in specific terms in these alternative methods? ThanksOP: if you suspect that the TEA you've at disposal contains water, you can make a long lasting concentrate of 510-Pyro that uses Propylene Glycol instead of TEA and add appropriate amount of TEA directly to the working solution. Or you can leave out TEA and use a Carbonate-bicarbonate buffer to get the same pH as 510-Pyro working solution.
I finally got a new bottle of TEA from another supplier. This one is thick like syrup as expected, and the newly mixed 510-pyro works like it should, so I am very happy now. Thank you all!
Jay always said his photographic interest was in photographing his family. Thus he was most concerned with rendering Caucasian skin tones. I think he wasn’t as concerned with shadows as we landscape photographers are.
Thank you Ashley for this info. I have now put a small bottle in the fridge to see if it freezesThe only source in the US I've found of proper undiluted TEA is The Chemistry Store. I've bought TEA from 3 other sources, all were low freeze grade. Notable bad sources were Photographer's Formulary and Artcraft. You can confirm if your TEA is diluted by keeping a small amount in a closed container and putting that container in your fridge for a few days (for some reason the pure stuff is resistant to freezing sometimes). If the solution eventually freezes, then you have pure undiluted TEA. If the solution does not freeze then it is diluted or "low freeze grade". Furthermore, the solution should be clear or very slightly yellow. If it is a deeper yellow then it is likely 85% TEA which has a significant amount of DEA and MEA contaminant. You can also determine this by testing pH as DEA and MEA are significantly more alkali. It is possible that you can have diluted 85% TEA as well, I have some which I believe came from Artcraft. The freeze test is the best way to test for dilution though in my opinion. 99% TEA has a slightly lower freezing point than 85% TEA also. When getting new TEA, even from the same supplier, always test it. I had some TEA from 2018 which was purchased from Artcraft and is 85%, undiluted. and also some from 2020 which is diluted 85%
edit: as of my last purchase, Photographer's Formulary sells diluted 99% and Artcraft sells diluted 85%.
Lets hope that explains it. Are you going to make a new badge?It was I who complained about the loss of speed. But I found this at:
http://www.pictorialplanet.com/advanced_photography/510_pyro.html
I used the original formulation. Maybe the extra phenidone would have been better.
<start of quote>
Formula for 510-Pyro stock:
TEA (Triethanolamine) 75ml
Ascorbic Acid 5g
Pyrogallol 10g
Phenidone 0.375g *
TEA to make 100ml
* Updated from the original 0.25g of phenidone by Jay DeFehr "To optimise the three way relationship between pyrogallol, ascorbic acid and phenidone"
Lets hope that explains it. Are you going to make a new badge?
Bernt
It’s a while since there has been a post on this thread that I have just finished reading.
Like the first poster I have had a total failure after mixing 510 Pyro.
All chemicals were fresh and the Tea solution was supposed to be 100 percent pure.
It was clear and viscous and mixing was tedious even after heating to 80 deg C.
I followed carefully the instructions in the Pictorial Planet video provided earlier in this thread.
I developed 2 sheets of tri X in a Jobo expert drum and processor With slow rotation.
500ml water to 5ml Pyro 510 freshly mixed. Developed 9 mins @ 21
The Film came out completely clear! I have never had such a failure with Pyricat HD or PMK.
Is there bad TEA?
As posted above the TEA soon is 11.5.
‘The PH of the developer mixed at 500ml water to 5ml pyro 510 is 8.7
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?