Hasselblad versions

[Benoitg]

Hi
I’m looking to buy a Hasselblad camera but have little knowledge of their pros and cons, the 500c seems possible affordable, how good are they in comparison to the 501 and 503, they appear to be quite pricey, does their cost just the higher price?
Many thanks Ben

 

[Hassasin]

There is only ONE Hasselblad to buy, but it is not the most universal - the SWC, any version with CF lens or later. It is in a range of 3k, but you buy it for two reasons: the unique lens and built quality, No other Hasselblad body feels like the SWC, likely due to more compact size and no mirror to move, nor lens to change. All that makes it a one rigid dude to hold..

I started with SWC/M to be astonished, only to go next for the 503CW, only to be hugely disappointed.

Of course all above just my 2 cents.

 

[Paul Howell]

Well the superwide is superwide so somewhat limited. So what do you think you will shoot? What is your budget? Do you think you will want a digital back? I've used a 500c (rented) time to time and think it is an excellent camera, and although the body is less expensive than other versions, what drives the price up is the system, lens, viewfinders, focusing screens and the like. But even with those added costs, the 500 and lines are professional grade, lens are sharp, and can be serviced.

 

[Don_ih]

Anticipate high costs to purchase body, back, and lenses or high cost to get all of them serviced. You'll want to know how recently everything was serviced if you're paying at the higher end, especially a body as old as a 500C.

 

[F4U]

I would stay away from the Hasselblads. Invariably the foam pads behind the mirror are turned to dust and focus accuracy is lost. You can't see these pads because they re inside the mirror frame between the mirror and the metal backing plate. Further, these camera bodies are in dire need of cleaning and lube and it's only a matter of time before you get a jam. Tryig to clear the jam wihtout knowing how to work on them can cause he whole mechanism to get out of time. If not that, but iff you do get it unjammed, it WILL jam again sooner or later. Hasselblad is a fine camera, but it's only for those with the means and dedication to have them professionally serviced every so often. I swore them off and just got an old Soviet Mockba.

 

[OAPOli]

From https://casualphotophile.com/2019/05/31/an-overview-of-the-hasselblad-500-series-v-system/

• Hasselblad 500C – 1957-1970 : Accepts all accessories, focusing screens can only be switched out by a technician (not really)
• Hasselblad 500 C/M – 1970-1994 : “M” denotes the ability to modify the camera system. Added the ability to quickly switch out the focusing screens to brighter models, different grids, specialty screens, etc.
• Hasselblad 503 C/X – 1988-1994 : Added an internal TTL flash meter, as well as a “Palpas” coating to eliminate internal reflections. Came as standard with the improved Acute Matte focusing screen.
• Hasselblad 501 C – 1994-1997 : An all-black variant that was sold as a complete kit, with an A12 magazine and 80mm C lens. Confusingly this C lens is actually a CF designation, not the older C-type lenses that were originally released with the 500 C.
• Hasselblad 503 C/W – 1996-2013 : Came equipped with a “Gliding Mirror System” which prevented viewfinder blackout (vignetting) with telephoto lenses. Came with the Acute Matte D screen, the final and best evolution of the focusing screens. Compatible with the Winder CW for those who need to shoot fast (with their slow cameras).
• Hasselblad 501 C/M – 1997-2005 : Equipped with Acute Matte D screen. Winder CW system compatible.

You likely won't need the flash meter or gliding mirror, so a 500 C or C/M would be fine.

 

[Sirius Glass]

From https://casualphotophile.com/2019/05/31/an-overview-of-the-hasselblad-500-series-v-system/

• Hasselblad 500C – 1957-1970 : Accepts all accessories, focusing screens can only be switched out by a technician (not really)
• Hasselblad 500 C/M – 1970-1994 : “M” denotes the ability to modify the camera system. Added the ability to quickly switch out the focusing screens to brighter models, different grids, specialty screens, etc.
• Hasselblad 503 C/X – 1988-1994 : Added an internal TTL flash meter, as well as a “Palpas” coating to eliminate internal reflections. Came as standard with the improved Acute Matte focusing screen.
• Hasselblad 501 C – 1994-1997 : An all-black variant that was sold as a complete kit, with an A12 magazine and 80mm C lens. Confusingly this C lens is actually a CF designation, not the older C-type lenses that were originally released with the 500 C.
• Hasselblad 503 C/W – 1996-2013 : Came equipped with a “Gliding Mirror System” which prevented viewfinder blackout (vignetting) with telephoto lenses. Came with the Acute Matte D screen, the final and best evolution of the focusing screens. Compatible with the Winder CW for those who need to shoot fast (with their slow cameras).
• Hasselblad 501 C/M – 1997-2005 : Equipped with Acute Matte D screen. Winder CW system compatible.

You likely won't need the flash meter or gliding mirror, so a 500 C or C/M would be fine.

All of the Hasselblad V versions are good. Which features you choose are up to you. I choose the 503 CX almost 20 years ago. Not that the 200 and 2000 series cameras were bad, rather that Hasselblad has withdrawn to parts and services for the 200 and 2000 series. The 503 CX could use the "Gliding Mirror System" and does show a band across the top of the viewfinder for the 250mm and longer lenses. I quickly learned to ignore the band and it does not effect the negative or slide. I chose the CX of the CW because I have not desire to use a power winder. Again a personal choice.

I use CF lenses, the later lenses have some advantages that you may or may not be interested in. I have two C lenses which frankly I do not like how the C lenses work. So why do I have those two lenses? They are the 30mm Fisheye lens and the 500mm telephoto lens. I use them when useful and put up with the C features I do not care for because they were optically high quality [the same prescription of their later versions] and we offered at a price that I could not walk away from.

 

[Benoitg]

From https://casualphotophile.com/2019/05/31/an-overview-of-the-hasselblad-500-series-v-system/

• Hasselblad 500C – 1957-1970 : Accepts all accessories, focusing screens can only be switched out by a technician (not really)
• Hasselblad 500 C/M – 1970-1994 : “M” denotes the ability to modify the camera system. Added the ability to quickly switch out the focusing screens to brighter models, different grids, specialty screens, etc.
• Hasselblad 503 C/X – 1988-1994 : Added an internal TTL flash meter, as well as a “Palpas” coating to eliminate internal reflections. Came as standard with the improved Acute Matte focusing screen.
• Hasselblad 501 C – 1994-1997 : An all-black variant that was sold as a complete kit, with an A12 magazine and 80mm C lens. Confusingly this C lens is actually a CF designation, not the older C-type lenses that were originally released with the 500 C.
• Hasselblad 503 C/W – 1996-2013 : Came equipped with a “Gliding Mirror System” which prevented viewfinder blackout (vignetting) with telephoto lenses. Came with the Acute Matte D screen, the final and best evolution of the focusing screens. Compatible with the Winder CW for those who need to shoot fast (with their slow cameras).
• Hasselblad 501 C/M – 1997-2005 : Equipped with Acute Matte D screen. Winder CW system compatible.

You likely won't need the flash meter or gliding mirror, so a 500 C or C/M would be fine.

Heh, thanks a lot for that overview of the different models, that’s really helpful and a good start for my research, exactly what I need.

 

[btaylor]

If you’re in a budget you might also think about the motorized 500 EL and ELX bodies. I recently picked them up for peanuts, and both work perfectly. If you can put up with their additional size might be worth it to get into the system. I have the “C” lenses and am happy with them, they can be had quite reasonably.

 

[bdial]

If you plan to target any of the later models that come with acute matte screens, you will want to learn how to identify the screens, so that you can verify.
My experience has been that the jamming reputation is wildly overstated.

Yes, the motorized bodies can be a great value, if you don’t mind the extra weight. My primary camera is a 553 ELX, If I could only have 1, it would be the ELX

 

[Benoitg]

Well the superwide is superwide so somewhat limited. So what do you think you will shoot? What is your budget? Do you think you will want a digital back? I've used a 500c (rented) time to time and think it is an excellent camera, and although the body is less expensive than other versions, what drives the price up is the system, lens, viewfinders, focusing screens and the like. But even with those added costs, the 500 and lines are professional grade, lens are sharp, and can be serviced.

Paul thanks a lot for your response, very helpful, currently I do mainly street photography with Ilford hp5 using a couple of small Olympus xa’s, but I also have started taking black and white studio shots of flowers using a Yashica mat with close up lenses, I often take out the Yashica when I do street but use it now less often, but it doubles as a camera/prop to show people that I’m a film photographer which can make people more relaxed as it’s a pretty looking camera and good to start a conversation, the Hasselblad I plan to use in my darkroom/studio but also take it outside to shoot various subjects, besides being a good camer again like the Yashica it looks great and will help as a talking point to break the ice with street portraits, sounds like the 500 line could fit the bill, don’t have a specific budget currently as I’m new to these cameras
Thanks Ben

 

[Benoitg]

If you’re in a budget you might also think about the motorized 500 EL and ELX bodies. I recently picked them up for peanuts, and both work perfectly. If you can put up with their additional size might be worth it to get into the system. I have the “C” lenses and am happy with them, they can be had quite reasonably.

Thank you very much I shall research that sounds interesting

 

[Benoitg]

All of the Hasselblad V versions are good. Which features you choose are up to you. I choose the 503 CX almost 20 years ago. Not that the 200 and 2000 series cameras were bad, rather that Hasselblad has withdrawn to parts and services for the 200 and 2000 series. The 503 CX could use the "Gliding Mirror System" and does show a band across the top of the viewfinder for the 250mm and longer lenses. I quickly learned to ignore the band and it does not effect the negative or slide. I chose the CX of the CW because I have not desire to use a power winder. Again a personal choice.

I use CF lenses, the later lenses have some advantages that you may or may not be interested in. I have two C lenses which frankly I do not like how the C lenses work. So why do I have those two lenses? They are the 30mm Fisheye lens and the 500mm telephoto lens. I use them when useful and put up with the C features I do not care for because they were optically high quality [the same prescription of their later versions] and we offered at a price that I could not walk away from.

Lots to look up their, thanks

 

[bags27]

The 500 c/m is a great camera. I bought it when my Mamiya 7 was taking forever to be repaired and I figured after I got it back I'd sell the Blad, and it would be kind of a rental. But 2 years on, and I'm selling the Mamiya. The 500 c/m is a masterpiece.

I recently bought a SWC 903 and I haven't picked up the 500 c/m or any of my other cameras since. Sure it's ultra wide, but it is so very sharp that cropping in post is available. And it is the essence of photography. No meter, no focusing screen. Everything has to be done mentally. I can't put it down. The greatest camera I've ever owned, without doubt.

MOST IMPORTANT: whatever you choose, it'll need maintenance sooner or later. Buying any film MF camera requires you to know whom you will be sending your camera to for, at a minimum, a CLA (cleaning, lubrication, adjustment). Based on my earlier experiences, I did things with the Blad in reverse order. I found a repairman I trusted and bought a Blad off him when one was available (https://barnowlcameras.net/). Never regretted that for a moment. Find a repair person and then buy a camera you know he can repair accurately, quickly, and reasonably.

 

[Paul Howell]

If you need a set of lens for studio and street then, and only if, the price is out of reach then I would consider a Mamiya 220 or 330. These are TLRs, built in bellows work well for close ups, nice range of lens, no mirror black out as with most MF SLR,s and quite a bit cheaper. Downside is they are heavy. BTW, just a personal note, I do have Kowa SL 66 and super, had both for many decades now, but did rent Hassy from time to time to please a client. I also have a Yaschica 124 and D, for street work I much prefer the Yaschica over the Kowa, for me it is the mirror blackout.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Like has been said above, the motor driven Hasselblads are in my opinion the best bargain in medium format used bodies. They will do everything an 500C or 500CM will do and more. The only real drawback is a gain in size and weight. My first Hasselblad was a 500C with non-T 80mm and a 12 back. It was all made in 1968 and in great shape. It was owned by a professional photographer in Grand Rapids, MI that had passed away. The family was selling off all his equipment and a friend of mine bought it and since he knew I wanted one and sold it to me for what he paid for it. He didn't do weddings, so it wasn't really heavily used. He did a lot of work for Kodak and made some of their "How to" videos about different aspects of photography. It came with all its boxes and last CLA slip. I've had it since around the late 70's, and it works just as well today as it did when I first got it, I've never had it sent out for service, but I did overhaul the shutter on the 80mm myself. After the 500C came a SWC, then an EL, two ELM's and finally a 553ELX, which I really like a lot. If I find a good deal on a 555ELD I'll grab it. I have other medium format systems, but will always keep my Hasselblad system, so I guess you know how I feel about Hasselblad. Backs are fairly reasonable, but lenses can set you back some. The later CF and CFi lenses sometimes cost more than some bodies do. I always say that if you can't do it with excellent Zeiss glass and a good Hasselblad body, then you should certainly look into a new hobby or different profession.
If you say you mainly do "street" photography, then the 500C/CM would be your best bet if you can't swing a SWC. My 500C with 12 back, 80mm with the waist level find isn't much bigger than my Rollei 3.5F. Of course, it's not as silent as my Rollei or your Oly XA, but it's not real bad either.

 

[MTGseattle]

Another unfortunate side of the used Hasselblad market these days(this may only apply to ebay) is the cannibalization of the bodies. The Acute-matte screens sell for decent money on their own, and some of the newer bodies that shipped with them have had the nice screens removed. There's also a lot of "bodies" for sale that are essentially useless until you buy a finder and a film back.
Hasselblad is a storied name and there is a pretty silly amount of gear available. I wish you luck in your search.

 

[4season]

I consider Hasselblad an inherently expensive system due to maintenance requirements: The 500-series cameras and lenses were largely handcrafted, and complete overhauls may require extensive disassembly. Silly me, the 500c body/back/lens was one of the first cameras I attempted to DIY, but it's only within the last few years that I think I've gotten pretty good at it. Maintenance-wise, Bronica ETR-series is lots easier.

 

[retina_restoration]

I have a 1984 vintage 500C/M. I bought it in 2012 as a serviced camera and it has worked flawlessly ever since. Of course the Hasselblads do require servicing periodically! Show me a modern, sophisticated camera that doesn't. But claims that they are troublesome, finicky, and prone to failure is grossly exaggerated.

I second the recommendation for Jim at Barn Owl Cameras. He serviced a friend's 500C/M before she sold it and he has serviced a lens for me as well. I would go to him before anyone else. He also sells serviced cameras, so you may want to ask him.

 

[btaylor]

Another vote for Jim at Barn Owl Camera. I had a focus issue with my 500 c/m that David Odesa failed to address when he serviced the camera. Jim corrected the problem. I then sent him a 150mm C lens for service. He turned both jobs around relatively quickly and at reasonable cost.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I consider Hasselblad an inherently expensive system due to maintenance requirements: The 500-series cameras and lenses were largely handcrafted, and complete overhauls may require extensive disassembly. Silly me, the 500c body/back/lens was one of the first cameras I attempted to DIY, but it's only within the last few years that I think I've gotten pretty good at it. Maintenance-wise, Bronica ETR-series is lots easier.

Advice from my Hasselblad repairman who services many cameras, it that he recommends for Hasselblad, and all other cameras, to once every three months, to fire each lens at 1 second [the slowest clocked speed] ten to fifteen times. The advises that one should put that one their calendar. According to him, exercising the shutter, either in a lens or on the camera is a good way to move the lubrication around the shutter and help prevent or at least forestall the need for service.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I would stay away from the Hasselblads. Invariably the foam pads behind the mirror are turned to dust and focus accuracy is lost. You can't see these pads because they re inside the mirror frame between the mirror and the metal backing plate. Further, these camera bodies are in dire need of cleaning and lube and it's only a matter of time before you get a jam. Tryig to clear the jam wihtout knowing how to work on them can cause he whole mechanism to get out of time. If not that, but iff you do get it unjammed, it WILL jam again sooner or later. Hasselblad is a fine camera, but it's only for those with the means and dedication to have them professionally serviced every so often. I swore them off and just got an old Soviet Mockba.

That's painting a darker picture than these beautiful cameras deserve. Thousands of V-series cameras have worked for decades without ever receiving service, and a jam only happens if wrongly used. Of my three 501cs, one jammed once, and I was able to fix that myself! Learn proper camera operation, and you'll never have to.

 

[Don_ih]

Thousands of V-series cameras have worked for decades without ever receiving service

Ehhhhh, that's not very likely. I don't know what kind of miracle would need to occur to keep the grease from getting muddy over even ten years, let alone decades.

A Hasselblad is a camera that is worth servicing. It's not a Canon SureShot.

 

[John Wiegerink]

That's painting a darker picture than these beautiful cameras deserve. Thousands of V-series cameras have worked for decades without ever receiving service, and a jam only happens if wrongly used. Of my three 501cs, one jammed once, and I was able to fix that myself! Learn proper camera operation, and you'll never have to.

I'm with you Ralph! These cameras are built with some of the absolute best materials any camera could be built with.

 

[Sirius Glass]

That's painting a darker picture than these beautiful cameras deserve. Thousands of V-series cameras have worked for decades without ever receiving service, and a jam only happens if wrongly used. Of my three 501cs, one jammed once, and I was able to fix that myself! Learn proper camera operation, and you'll never have to.

I agree. Since I have been following the advice I referred to in post 21, I have not had any Hasselblad lens problems for many, many years. If I were to have a problem, I would bring it to my repairman to check it over and adjust as necessary.