Hasselblad V series - best focussing screen

[kal800]

Hi,

It's time to upgrade my non Acute Matte screen with the brighter one. I've tried to find some sort of compendium describing all of the models that were released, but could not find any. Could you advise, which model number should I pursue? I want the screen to the brightest as possible and split screen aid. Also, I noticed that there are models with double notch on the frame, does it mean anything? Are they better, brighter in any way?

Thanks, kal800

 

[etn]

The Acute Matte D is said to be the best. One of my bodies has an Acute Matte non D , honestly i don’t see much difference - you can save some bucks going for one of those.

As for the different models, (plain, grid etc), let me check if I find this in my catalog. This info might be available on the web somewhere too.

 

[etn]

Also, I noticed that there are models with double notch on the frame, does it mean anything? Are they better, brighter in any way?

Thanks, kal800

The double notch indicates the Acute Matte D.

 

[kal800]

From my short research, I have found the following models available:

42204 - Acute Matte D - cross
42215 - Acute Matte D - prism, split
42217 - Acute Matte D - prism, split, grid
42165 - Acute Matte - cross
42170 - Acute Matte - split, grid

Any others? It seems that 42215 is a ultimate dream screen, while 42170 should be value for money choice.

Am I right?

Kal800

 

[Grim Tuesday]

Are you on a 500C or a 500CM? This will affect your options. Also watch out for screens on eBay, often people buy new screens and put the old one in the case that their new one came in. Unwitting sellers who are not the original owner will then try to sell a standard screen as an acute matte or whatnot and you have to go through the hassle of returning it.

 

[kal800]

That's a good point - there is no way to tell the difference between standard and Acute Matte from the auction photos. So, it seems, D models are safest to buy, unless somebody make those notches himself .

I've got 501C body.

 

[itsdoable]

... there is no way to tell the difference between standard and Acute Matte from the auction photos... .

The standard (old) Hasselblad screens have cross hairs in black painted, while the acute mattes have scribed cross hairs. Of course there will be some 3-rd party screens with scribed lines too, but for the most part, the the after-market people did not use cross hairs.

 

[AndyH]

I'm also interested in replacing the screen in my 1970 (last year model) 500C. I've read varying accounts of the degree of difficulty, and necessity for shimming, but it appears to be within my repair abilities. Does anyone have advice on which models will retrofit to the 500C, and how to distinguish the genuine article from something mislabeled or mispackaged?

Andy

 

[Grim Tuesday]

I'm also interested in replacing the screen in my 1970 (last year model) 500C. I've read varying accounts of the degree of difficulty, and necessity for shimming, but it appears to be within my repair abilities. Does anyone have advice on which models will retrofit to the 500C, and how to distinguish the genuine article from something mislabeled or mispackaged?

Andy

I did a little research on this a few months ago and I concluded the best replacement screen would be Rick Oleson's BrightScreen, because of its relatively low price. He will cut you one for a 500C if you contact him. I believe it is descended from Beattie's BrightScreen. That said, I have heard that one should take great care when replacing a screen in a 500C. They are held in with 4 screws that have a reputation for being fragile. If the screws break, the camera is a brick. Someone in an old thread said that Hasselblad in NJ stopped doing screen swaps on 500Cs at some point for this reason. I don't know if that's true but I didn't trust myself to do it myself, so I decided if I do it I'll take it to a professional. My local camera repair shop, Camera Center of York, said they'd do (and they have an autocollimator!) for $50.

In the end, I ended up getting a 500C/M that I saw on sale for $200 to avoid the hassle. No pun intended with Hassleblad. Interestingly, my biggest issue with the 500C screen, which is how coarse the fresnel is, is resolved in the 500CM screen!

 

[Pieter12]

I did a little research on this a few months ago and I concluded the best replacement screen would be Rick Oleson's BrightScreen, because of its relatively low price. He will cut you one for a 500C if you contact him. I believe it is descended from Beattie's BrightScreen. That said, I have heard that one should take great care when replacing a screen in a 500C. They are held in with 4 screws that have a reputation for being fragile. If the screws break, the camera is a brick. Someone in an old thread said that Hasselblad in NJ stopped doing screen swaps on 500Cs at some point for this reason. I don't know if that's true but I didn't trust myself to do it myself, so I decided if I do it I'll take it to a professional. My local camera repair shop, Camera Center of York, said they'd do (and they have an autocollimator!) for $50.

In the end, I ended up getting a 500C/M that I saw on sale for $200 to avoid the hassle. No pun intended with Hassleblad. Interestingly, my biggest issue with the 500C screen, which is how coarse the fresnel is, is resolved in the 500CM screen!

My personal opinion: I don't like the split rangefinder on Mr. Oleson's screens, the ones I have are not as nice as OEM. I would suggest one of his screens without.

 

[itsdoable]

I'm also interested in replacing the screen in my 1970 (last year model) 500C. I've read varying accounts of the degree of difficulty, and necessity for shimming, but it appears to be within my repair abilities. Does anyone have advice on which models will retrofit to the 500C, and how to distinguish the genuine article from something mislabeled or mispackaged?Andy

Changing the screen is pretty easy, 4 screws and the whole thing comes out (frame, screen, fresnel, springs). Putting a new screen back in isn't that difficult either, but re-calibrating it is the tricky part. The 4 screws are spring loaded and set the height of each corner of the screen, you need a optical bench, or a Hasselblad calibration jig, or a very good infinity object with a known lens that has and accurate infinity stop to get the screen back in place. I have used the moon on a clear night with a good telephoto lens to get the screen right.

Because calibrating the screen is a lot of work, it's not that easy to try screens. I've used Chinese and Russian screens (mostly pretty good), bright screens, Bosc wax screens. Some are bright but grainy, some have course fresnels, all work, but obviously some are nicer than others. The best are the genuine acute mattes, you can disassemble then to use the screens in the 500c. The Maxwell and Oleson are good, I've never liked the Beattie. For the most part, you get what you pay for...

 

[GLS]

Any others? It seems that 42215 is a ultimate dream screen, while 42170 should be value for money choice.

I own both the 42215 and 42217. My 501CM came with the 42217 (which by the way does not contain a microprism array as you stated, but only the split-image), and the grid can be quite handy for composing, but it does of course introduce some potential visual distraction. The etched lines are quite subtle though.

I most recently bought the 42215, and the microprism array is definitely a boon when focusing on fine details. It is the screen I currently have installed, and I am undecided yet whether I will keep the other as a spare or sell it.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

From my short research, I have found the following models available:

42204 - Acute Matte D - cross
42215 - Acute Matte D - prism, split
42217 - Acute Matte D - prism, split, grid
42165 - Acute Matte - cross
42170 - Acute Matte - split, grid

Kal800

What is the visual or transmission difference between D and non-D screens? I have a 501CM body with an Acute-Matte screen and will check if it has the notches.

Side note: I installed one of Rick Oleson's screens in a Rolleiflex 3.5E, and it was a tremendous improvement over the original Rollei screen.

 

[Alan Gales]

I used to own a 500/cm with both a Beattie Intenscreen and the original screen. The Beattie was fantastic and a huge improvement over the original. I've since been told (on this forum) that the Acute Matte is even better than the Beattie.

If I were you I'd buy an Acute Matte.

 

[itsdoable]

What is the visual or transmission difference between D and non-D screens?...

Transmission is the same. Visually, the "D" is supposed to "snap" a little better at the moment of critical focus. One of the complaints about the Acute Matte prismatic screens was that there was a tiny bit of aerial image, and to achieve critical focus, you had to compare the view with the cross hairs. The "D" resolved this issue.

 

[GLS]

What is the visual or transmission difference between D and non-D screens?

According to the Hasselblad Manual by Ernst Wildi:

"Compared to the original Acute-Matte, the D-type screen is slightly more diffusing for stable exposure metering and the out-of-focus portions of the image are more blurred and truer to the way they are recorded on the film with all lenses"

I don't think there is an appreciable difference in the brightness of the two types of Acute-Matte, unlike when compared to the original screens, which are at least 1 stop dimmer.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I like and have the Acute-Matte D with the cross hairs for lining up horizontals and verticals.

 

[kal800]

How do you focus using cross hairs? I use to focus using split screen in most cases.

 

[GLS]

How do you focus using cross hairs? I use to focus using split screen in most cases.

You don't. You just have to focus directly on the screen without any other aids.

 

[kal800]

Just bought mint condition with box and manual - Acute Matte D with grid and split screen - 42217 for a very good price. As a matter of fact, I've got the same configuration, so I will have opportunity to compare.

Kal

 

[campy51]

What's a good price? I can't seem to find any much below $400 and I refuse to pay that much since my whole 500 C/M only cost about $800.

 

[logan2z]

What's a good price? I can't seem to find any much below $400 and I refuse to pay that much since my whole 500 C/M only cost about $800.

Unfortunately that appears to be the going rate at the moment. I agree, awfully expensive.

 

[kal800]

The prices are crazy. When I was building my Hassy set in 2011, I paid about $500 for 501C with Planar 80 CF and A12 with matching numbers. Year later I’ve bought very good condition Distagon 50 LFE for $300 and now I’m buying a focusing screen for $350...

Parts are becoming really scarce while demand is constant.

 

[logan2z]

The prices are crazy. When I was building my Hassy set in 2011, I paid about $500 for 501C with Planar 80 CF and A12 with matching numbers. Year later I’ve bought very good condition Distagon 50 LFE for $300 and now I’m buying a focusing screen for $350...

Parts are becoming really scarce while demand is constant.

It is what it is. I just bought a 500 C/M with 80mm CF T* and A12/matching numbers and paid just about 3x what you paid. You only live once...

 

[kal800]

It’s awesome, that people still want to buy that gear, second hand prices are skyrocketing and still nobody would ever consider to restart production...