Hasselblad PME90 rubber eye cup replacement

[Hassasin]

Just a side conversation on the PME90... I have been thinking of getting one for my 501C camera and was looking at the PM90 and the PME90 the other evening... Clearly, they aren't exactly that same but size-wise, they are similar and the PME90 adds in the diopter adjustment which would be very handy. Considering the PME90 isn't much more expensive than the PM90 in the market, I feel it is probably the way to go.

So, I have to ask; how do you like the PME90 that you have and can you compare it to any other viewfinders you have used? I currently have a WL finder and a PM45. I don't particularly like how bulky and high the PM45 is (in part because it can accommodate the old Polaroid backs).

How do you feel the meter in the PME90 works? I use the gridded screen, so I won't be using the spot meter, so I'm curions more about how the averaging meter seems to work.

Are they worth the $400 to $500 that they seem to fetch through the onnline sources?

1. PME90 is not small at all, and it is rather heavy, keep that in mind, with 45 I only have the old style NC2, which is rather compact, lighter and really like it. The PM90 is just a different design, not related to PME90 at all (PME90 being a brother of the PME45), all in all most older finders have a need for diopter lens to adjust for vision, PME90/45 have it built in as well as chimney.

2. Meter in PME90 to me is all one would need in majority of cases (spot? well these kind of meters have a spot that directly relates to lens used, so often times that spot isn't one at all, it surely closes in on an area, but not often in ways handheld spot meter does), I'm not a tester guy, so this needs to be taken with some grain of salt, I am more than satisfied what average meter does, but I also only shoot B&W.

3. 400 USD is a good price (I can see it going less if one puts it on actual bidding war, but that hardly happens), but note (& ask) LCD display develops bleeding over time, I cannot say all of them do, but it is a common problem, (also with LCDs of that era in general, but seems like Olypmus got it right in OM4) so a clear photo of that display is a must to see prior to purchase, some small bleeding won't affect use, but once there is a trace of any, it is likely to grow, and unfortunately it is anyones guess how long before it becomes useless.

4. 90 prism is to me a must in the bag, for those higher up tripod shots where one cannot look down the way 45 requires (let alone WLF), the 45 certainly makes handholding more natural (90 degree is quite odd to me for handheld shots), of course this can be easily taken care off with the featherlight straight chimney.

In the end, if you can put your hands on one before purchase, it would be advisable. It is a good chunk to put on top of your 501C. it does have a lower profile than PME45 though.

For me there is usually a price to pay for convenience, and PME90 surely delivers and despite yet to be resolved eye cup issue, no regrets.

Have found this comparison photo PM90 to PME95

 

[etn]

Just a side conversation on the PME90... I have been thinking of getting one for my 501C camera and was looking at the PM90 and the PME90 the other evening... Clearly, they aren't exactly that same but size-wise, they are similar and the PME90 adds in the diopter adjustment which would be very handy. Considering the PME90 isn't much more expensive than the PM90 in the market, I feel it is probably the way to go.

So, I have to ask; how do you like the PME90 that you have and can you compare it to any other viewfinders you have used? I currently have a WL finder and a PM45. I don't particularly like how bulky and high the PM45 is (in part because it can accommodate the old Polaroid backs).

How do you feel the meter in the PME90 works? I use the gridded screen, so I won't be using the spot meter, so I'm curions more about how the averaging meter seems to work.

Are they worth the $400 to $500 that they seem to fetch through the onnline sources?

Next to Hassassin's excellent post, few points from my side too, in random order:

- I tried the PME90 next to a PME45 in a store; I ended up with the PME45. I found handling the '45 better. Holding the Hassy at eye-level with the PME90 did not feel "natural" to me. Again, my own opinion only - it works well for other people. If possible try it before you buy and if you order one, be sure to have a return policy in case you don't like it. The PME90 is probably better suited for tripod work, the PME45 for handeld (=my use case).

- The PME45/90 meter is very accurate. It features integral, spot and even incident meter, although the latter is cumbersome. I can't imagine anyone using it. But you have it if you need it and do not have any other incident meter at hand.

- To answer your question on focusing screens: you can dial in permanent exposure compensation in the PME45/90, to accommodate for different screens. In my experience exposures were spot on with the screens I have, namely Acute-Matte non-D gridded (42170), Acute-Matte D not gridded (42215), and the Acute Matte D for digital back. The manual provides details about the different focusing screens and possible restrictions.

- The PME45/90 does not do flash metering.

- Usage is as easy as with any non-coupled meter (well, apart from taking incident readings!) Press a button, read the EV, report the EV on your lens. Having everything in one device (camera+prism) is a plus; you don't have to get your light meter out of the pocket and put it back there after taking your reading. Definitely helps when your family is waiting for you

- When you change lenses, don't forget to program the lens max aperture into the meter!!!

- $400-500 is in the same ball park of a top-of-the line Gossen or Sekonik spot meter. PME45's are even more expensive.

- Such a prism adds a big bunch of size and weight to the Hassy, which I am not keen on carrying. But when I entered the age of reading glasses, I realized I needed a prism. Alternative would be to change to reading glasses every time I want to take a picture. (No thanks.) My reasoning is: if I need to carry a prism anyway, I might as well have a metered one and leave the meter at home.

- Metering through the lens is very handy for macro. No need to calculate the required exposure compensation anymore.

Bottom line, I like mine very much and it is now permanently glued onto my Hasselblad.

Hope this helps

 

[Sirius Glass]

Next to Hassassin's excellent post, few points from my side too, in random order:

- I tried the PME90 next to a PME45 in a store; I ended up with the PME45. I found handling the '45 better. Holding the Hassy at eye-level with the PME90 did not feel "natural" to me. Again, my own opinion only - it works well for other people. If possible try it before you buy and if you order one, be sure to have a return policy in case you don't like it. The PME90 is probably better suited for tripod work, the PME45 for handeld (=my use case).

- The PME45/90 meter is very accurate. It features integral, spot and even incident meter, although the latter is cumbersome. I can't imagine anyone using it. But you have it if you need it and do not have any other incident meter at hand.

- To answer your question on focusing screens: you can dial in permanent exposure compensation in the PME45/90, to accommodate for different screens. In my experience exposures were spot on with the screens I have, namely Acute-Matte non-D gridded (42170), Acute-Matte D not gridded (42215), and the Acute Matte D for digital back. The manual provides details about the different focusing screens and possible restrictions.

- The PME45/90 does not do flash metering.

- Usage is as easy as with any non-coupled meter (well, apart from taking incident readings!) Press a button, read the EV, report the EV on your lens. Having everything in one device (camera+prism) is a plus; you don't have to get your light meter out of the pocket and put it back there after taking your reading. Definitely helps when your family is waiting for you

- When you change lenses, don't forget to program the lens max aperture into the meter!!!

- $400-500 is in the same ball park of a top-of-the line Gossen or Sekonik spot meter. PME45's are even more expensive.

- Such a prism adds a big bunch of size and weight to the Hassy, which I am not keen on carrying. But when I entered the age of reading glasses, I realized I needed a prism. Alternative would be to change to reading glasses every time I want to take a picture. (No thanks.) My reasoning is: if I need to carry a prism anyway, I might as well have a metered one and leave the meter at home.

- Metering through the lens is very handy for macro. No need to calculate the required exposure compensation anymore.

Bottom line, I like mine very much and it is now permanently glued onto my Hasselblad.

Hope this helps

The bold and enlarged edit shows my only major complaint about the PMEs other than weight.

 

[Michael Mutmansky]

The bold and enlarged edit shows my only major complaint about the PMEs other than weight.

Hahaha... Yes, that is a funny shortcoming of all the Hasselblad V gear. They never bothered to develop a physical or electronic interlink in the lens mount to sync with body electronics until the CFe lenses that came out at the very end. Something that had been done since the 70's at least in 35mm gear.

This quirkiness is endearing to the system, but I can remember in the late 80's looking at the Hasselblad gear and thinking "this gear is so old-school... they don't even have metering in the bodies that syncs with the lenses, and yet, it's so expensive!". Little did I know...

While doing research last year on the system, I found a digital version of the old B&H Photo Pro Sourcebook from the late 90's... I think it is from '98 or '99... The 501CM is in there but the 501C isn't and there is no mentio of the millenial body. The Hasselblad gear starts on page 36...

https://static.bhphotovideo.com/FrameWork/Product_Resources/SourceBookProPhoto/Pro-Photo-SourceBook.pdf

It's shocking how insanely expensive the lenses were back then.

-----

Thanks so much for the feedback everyone... There is some great input in there, in particular the comment on the LCD screens going bad. I wasn't aware of that to consider, so I'll look into that as I look around.

I do need reading glasses now (actually, if I'm wearing glasses, I can pop them off and then get close), and this is specifically what I was thinking as one of the reasons that I felt I should be looking into the PME90. I'd be fine with an external meter, but if it has one in the prisim, I'll use it if it works well.

I'm going into the optometrist soon and intend to take my camera with me to help get some resolution on what my vision options are, so i'd be nice to have this resolved when I go in. I guess I can use the PM45 as it has the same or simlar diopter in it, so I don't have to have a PME90 in my hands at that time.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Hahaha... Yes, that is a funny shortcoming of all the Hasselblad V gear. They never bothered to develop a physical or electronic interlink in the lens mount to sync with body electronics until the CFe lenses that came out at the very end. Something that had been done since the 70's at least in 35mm gear.

This quirkiness is endearing to the system, but I can remember in the late 80's looking at the Hasselblad gear and thinking "this gear is so old-school... they don't even have metering in the bodies that syncs with the lenses, and yet, it's so expensive!". Little did I know...

While doing research last year on the system, I found a digital version of the old B&H Photo Pro Sourcebook from the late 90's... I think it is from '98 or '99... The 501CM is in there but the 501C isn't and there is no mentio of the millenial body. The Hasselblad gear starts on page 36...

https://static.bhphotovideo.com/FrameWork/Product_Resources/SourceBookProPhoto/Pro-Photo-SourceBook.pdf

It's shocking how insanely expensive the lenses were back then.

-----

Thanks so much for the feedback everyone... There is some great input in there, in particular the comment on the LCD screens going bad. I wasn't aware of that to consider, so I'll look into that as I look around.

I do need reading glasses now (actually, if I'm wearing glasses, I can pop them off and then get close), and this is specifically what I was thinking as one of the reasons that I felt I should be looking into the PME90. I'd be fine with an external meter, but if it has one in the prisim, I'll use it if it works well.

I'm going into the optometrist soon and intend to take my camera with me to help get some resolution on what my vision options are, so i'd be nice to have this resolved when I go in. I guess I can use the PM45 as it has the same or simlar diopter in it, so I don't have to have a PME90 in my hands at that time.

Get soft contact lenses and then you will not need to have the PME adjusted.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

with 45 I only have the old style NC2, which is rather compact, lighter and really like it.

I use the NC2 also, and you are right, it is bright and compact. Does anyone know of a source for the eyecup? Is it a size that might be common with some 35mm camera or one of the Soviet med. format prisms? Thanks!

 

[Hassasin]

I use the NC2 also, and you are right, it is bright and compact. Does anyone know of a source for the eyecup? Is it a size that might be common with some 35mm camera or one of the Soviet med. format prisms? Thanks!

I will check that Arax version because I think that will actually fit. Will get back on that.

 

[Hassasin]

@Kodachromeguy The Arax eye cup fits NC-2 perfectly. I believe all older Hasselblad finders will be in same boat. What this cup does NOT fit properly is the PME90 & PME45, the late metered prism finders.

Above: Original set up, 2-piece with eye cup removed

Above: Arax cup installed with original rubber ring intact, Arax cup is a bit tighter and does not swivel around too easily, but that may be due to new rubber.

 

[etn]

I do need reading glasses now (actually, if I'm wearing glasses, I can pop them off and then get close), and this is specifically what I was thinking as one of the reasons that I felt I should be looking into the PME90. I'd be fine with an external meter, but if it has one in the prisim, I'll use it if it works well.

I'm going into the optometrist soon and intend to take my camera with me

Eyes and reading glasses are very unique to each individual. Good idea to take your camera with you to the optometrist!

My Dad had glasses even before I was born. Age shifted his vision back to normal (i.e. compensated his myopia) - he does not need glasses at all for reading! I'm sure he could use a Hasselblad without prism if he wanted
I have astigmatism, which means shifting between 2 pairs... and using a prism with the camera!

 

[Michael Mutmansky]

I have been wearing glasses since I was in 2nd grade or maybe even earlier, so about 6-7 years old. Astigmatism and myopia are my daily limitations. I never really worried about it with cameras much until I turned 45 and like a switch, my near focus started to fail me so I now need to have both near and far correction (but super near as a-OK). This is where the use of the WL VF is a problem and I really don't want to resort to bifocals. I can't bear to have the FOV broken up with dead zones like that.

Anyway, I picked up a PME90 for a good price and just got it over the weekend. Nice clean VF with no seperation and the meter appears to be functioning well. I need to do some tests to see how it works in different lighting conditions. Thanks for the advice/recommendations everyone... I will work with it and decide how I feel about it. Other than inserting a film back being somewhat fiddly, I don't feel it is too much of a burden to use for my shooting needs, but if course, I'd much prefer the size and weight of the WL VF.

 

[popel75]

On my PME I have an eyecup but the original rubber ring was quite rotten so I removed BUT the base metal ring is loose even with an eyecup on it.Someone mentioned an O-ring is that what it was meant for (= to replace the original rubber ring) ?

 

[Sirius Glass]

On my PME I have an eyecup but the original rubber ring was quite rotten so I removed BUT the base metal ring is loose even with an eyecup on it.Someone mentioned an O-ring is that what it was meant for (= to replace the original rubber ring) ?

Since you use a Hasselblad we all know that you are very wise.

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!​

 

[eli griggs]

On my PME I have an eyecup but the original rubber ring was quite rotten so I removed BUT the base metal ring is loose even with an eyecup on it.Someone mentioned an O-ring is that what it was meant for (= to replace the original rubber ring) ?

I talked about making a eye cup out of a black rubber, hollow N.Y. handball ball and using a Harbor Freight "O" ring from one of the several inexpensive "O" ring assortments like this, for a more secure attachment to the prism eyepiece metal ring.

O-Rings & Grommets - Harbor Freight Tools

These O-ring & grommet kits include some of most commonly used sizes. Built-in, easy-to-read width gauge. Includes sturdy molded storage case for organization.

www.harborfreight.com

I hope this helps.

Cheers and Godspeed Everyone.

 

[popel75]

Since you use a Hasselblad we all know that you are very wise.

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!​

Can't imagine your wisdom and cash level as mulifomat shooter ;
I am neither wise and nor rich I inherited the camera and ask dumb questions

 

[popel75]

I talked about making a eye cup out of a black rubber, hollow N.Y. handball ball and using a Harbor Freight "O" ring from one of the several inexpensive "O" ring assortments like this, for a more secure attachment to the prism eyepiece metal ring.

O-Rings & Grommets - Harbor Freight Tools

These O-ring & grommet kits include some of most commonly used sizes. Built-in, easy-to-read width gauge. Includes sturdy molded storage case for organization.

www.harborfreight.com

I hope this helps.

Cheers and Godspeed Everyone.

Thanks yes it does !

 

[popel75]

I talked about making a eye cup out of a black rubber, hollow N.Y. handball ball and using a Harbor Freight "O" ring from one of the several inexpensive "O" ring assortments like this, for a more secure attachment to the prism eyepiece metal ring.

O-Rings & Grommets - Harbor Freight Tools

These O-ring & grommet kits include some of most commonly used sizes. Built-in, easy-to-read width gauge. Includes sturdy molded storage case for organization.

www.harborfreight.com

I hope this helps.

Cheers and Godspeed Everyone.

I guess you meant 1.5 X 1 1/4 (not 1.4) inch in your earlier post ? Part number 218.
You put that O-Ring between the prism body and the lose bare eyecup metal ring
Cheers and thanks again !!

 

[eli griggs]

Cheers.

 

[Edgy01]

I contacted Hasselblad not too long ago and their report was that they don’t have any backstock in those things. Ditto for thr actual manufacturer of those viewfinders for the superwodes. I’m a bit surprised no enterprising Chinese company hasn’t started to crank them out.

dan.

 

[EgawaShiro]

May have to try 3D printing one. I actually want to see how many people would be interested in finding a rubber company and requesting a custom made from China.

 

[Michael Mutmansky]

There was a company selling some SWC rubber viewfinders on Ebay a year ago or so. I presume they weren't original because they wer coming out of China. I think there should be a large enough market for these that a batch could be made every 10 years or so. I'd buy backups for the finders I have.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I contacted Hasselblad not too long ago and their report was that they don’t have any backstock in those things. Ditto for thr actual manufacturer of those viewfinders for the superwodes. I’m a bit surprised no enterprising Chinese company hasn’t started to crank them out.

dan.

Those supplies have been depleted long ago. Not just for Hasselblad but for me in the past with the eye cups for the Mamiya C series. Therefore I use Pliobond 30 to carefully put together my eye cup for my 903 SWC view finder.

 

[Sirius Glass]

There was a company selling some SWC rubber viewfinders on Ebay a year ago or so. I presume they weren't original because they wer coming out of China. I think there should be a large enough market for these that a batch could be made every 10 years or so. I'd buy backups for the finders I have.

Let me know if you find a source for those again, please.