Hasselblad FE lense + 2000 FCW problem

[edinator]

Hi guys,

I just got an 80 F2.8 FE and 2000 FCW and I've been having some issues. Let me try to describe the issue:

The camera fires on C mode and all shutter speeds without the lense.
The camera fires on C mode with the lense
The camera does NOT fire on regular shutter speeds with the lense on. Instead, only the mirror flips up without returning (this is on mode 2), the shutter also does not fire. I can't advance the crank after pressing the shutter button. To recock the camera, I have to use the multiexposure button which will bring the mirror down.

I tried two different batteries so that also doesn't seem to be the issue. I don't have another lense to test the camera unfortunately. The camera also seems to be acting normally when I take the back off.

So what could be the issue? At first I thought it was the interlink between the lense and body but the rotating axle works in C mode so I'm not sure what the issue is when using the focal plane shutter. I don't know when I can get ahold of another lense to test it. I really hope it isn't an issue with the body.

Cheers,

Ed

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Strange problem. I have only 500-series, not 2000 or 200 series, so sorry for not being much help.

Obviously, it's not useful to select the C setting on the body with an F or FE lens. I can't imagine why your regular speeds would stop functioning when you mount the FE lens.

I know the 80/2.8 FE has to have a connection on the rear of the lens to stop down the aperture before exposure, just like a 80/2.8 C or CF lens. I notice that in addition to the FE lens' electrical contacts there also seems to be a cocking screw on the 80/2.8 FE, although I have no idea why it's there since the lens has no shutter. Is the slot of that screw aligned with the red dot?

 

[Sirius Glass]

I too have only the 500 series, but there are several here that have the 2000 series. They should see this thread soon and help.

 

[Richard Man]

I have a 203FE, the only time I had similar issue is when the battery is weak/out but that does not sound like the case here. So B also works in addition to C? How about cleaning the contacts on the lens and on the body?

 

[itsdoable]

I have not replied yet as I don't think I can diagnose your problem. However, this information may help you.

2000fcw have no electrical connection between the lens or film back, the communication is purely mechanical. The "C" mode is also purely mechanical, as it works with no battery installed. The B and all other shutter speeds require the battery to trip both shutter curtains.

Thus if the camera works on "C" but not the other modes, the likely place to look is the power supply, and very rarely the electromagnets that trip the shutter curtains. The power is easy, and the 2000 series bodies use so little power that a mostly dead battery will usually work fine. Electromagnet failures are very rare, and not repairable (no parts available). However, if the shutter fires correctly with the lens removed, the electromagnets are probably fine.

The lens couples with a rotating key that arms the shutter and closes the aperture. If the mating part in the lens is stuck (ie: will not complete the aperture cycle), then that can halt the mechanical process in the body and not allow the camera to get to the point of triggering the shutter.

The 2 mechanical connections to the back is the winding gear and the dark slide shutter button block. Since you can trip, or start the shutter tripping process, the dark slide interlock is probably OK. The back wind mechanism may be jammed, but those symptoms are not what you have described.

Best I can advise it to take it to someone who understands the mechanics and interlocks on the body, and they can then tell you if it needs servicing.

 

[edinator]

I figured out the problem. I got the lense for a pretty good deal, glass was clean but the helical was very rough. I decided to take it apart to lubricate it. It isn't my first time doing something like this but this lense is a bit strange to disassemble. When I put the rear cover back on (which didn't actually need to come off with my way of lubricating it), I didn't properly wind back the rotating key that controls the aperture stop down. I had a feeling this was the issue but I dismissed it since it seemed like the body also wound the key in C mode. I guess it is different in the focal shutter plane mode. Anyways, I decided to take it apart again and tried a different configuration. It's hard to explain the issue without taking pictures of it all but I can't be bothered right now. Running a test roll through the camera now. Sorry for the bother!

PS I am anticipating flak for messing around with a Hasselblad lense so post away Reason I didn't mention it in the original post was because I really thought I had put it together correctly.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Glad to hear it's working.

Earlier I had wondered a bit about how you ended up with an FE lens for a 2000FCW since that body can't make use of all the electronic functionality of that lens. It's perfectly compatible, of course.

 

[edinator]

Glad to hear it's working.

Earlier I had wondered a bit about how you ended up with an FE lens for a 2000FCW since that body can't make use of all the electronic functionality of that lens. It's perfectly compatible, of course.

Is there much of a price difference between F and FE? These lenses don't seem very common so I'm not even sure what a fair value is. I still kind of want a 80 CF for the leaf shutter shooting option but this will do for now.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Is there much of a price difference between F and FE? These lenses don't seem very common so I'm not even sure what a fair value is. I still kind of want a 80 CF for the leaf shutter shooting option but this will do for now.

Looking around, it seems like the F lenses and FE lenses are equally rare, though I'd expect the FE's to sell for more. People who have a 203FE or 205FCC pretty much have to have an FE lens to make full use of their camera.

The selling point for the F/FE lenses and bodies was that the lenses were generally a stop faster. For the 80/2.8 F/FE they didn't do that, so you can actually get more functionality with a CF or CFE lens. You could probably sell your 80/2.8 FE and replace it with an 80/2.8 CF and have money left over. 80/2.8's are as common as rocks.

Actually, you could even use an old C lens: to use the lens shutter, set your body's speed to C and set the shutter speed you want on the lens itself. To use the body's focal plane shutter, set the speed you want on the body and set B on the lens (if this were a CF lens, set F).

 

[edinator]

Yeah the plan is to get a CF, I think the ergonomics of the lense are better than the C. Didn't know an FE would sell for that much but I guess it's finding the right buyer at the right time.

 

[aoresteen]

FE lenses sell from 50 to 100 percent more than the f lenses. The 110 f/2 is very hard to find in FE thus it is very costly at around $2400