Hasselblad 501c issue

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RalphLambrecht

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I really can't say. Just thought exercising the mechanism may have done it.

Unfortunately, I'm not getting to the point where I can exercise it. No matter how hard I try, I can't get the red dot perfectly aligned and the lens mounted. I'm sick and tired paying for CLA so often. I thought this was professional equipment that just worked but these are extremely moody and sensitive shelf queens one can not rely on working when needed. I'm not throwing good money after bad any longer. I'm going to sack 'em and get something that works.
 

jeffreyg

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As I mentioned earlier I had the opposite problem. I wanted to remove a lens. I have been using my Hasselblads for more than twenty-five years so I know how to change lenses etc. I have the special tool, opened the back and the screw was in the correct position and the release button on the body could be pushed in but the lens was locked on. No matter what I tried I could not remove the lens. I ended up sending it to Hasselblad for a repair which was costly but less than replacing the lens and body. They did repair and did a cla while it was there any ways. I never abused my equipment.
I think your camera has the same problem but in reverse. If the lens attaches to a different body and a different lens will attach to the body in question, I would call Hasselblad repair service for advice because that is a real puzzle.


 

John Wiegerink

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Ralph,
It's going to be very hard to find something that "works" forever 100% of the time. All the professional cameras I know of have their own share of problems as well. I've owned, bought and sold most of them in years past, so I have a little experience in that department. Now, I haven't owned many professional cameras made past say 2001, but many before that. I think the older Mamiya twin lens system was as reliable as anything I've ever owned, but even those had hiccups from time to time. I found from personal experience that electronically advanced modern cameras are great, but a nightmare when they malfunction. I kept two PRO systems cameras and have had no issues with either. My Hasselblad 500C (1968) was used by a professional that made some of Kodak's "How to" videos before I got it. It still works great and has had no authorized CLA in all those years. The EL series I have had has not been as reliable by far. The other system I kept was my Pentax 67, and it's just as reliable for me anyway. With the Pentax 67 if you don't follow proper procedure with changing the finders, you can break a small chain that syncs the internal workings. Also, the 165mm LS (leaf shutter) lens has to be operated in just a certain way, or you got big issues with that. So, nothing is perfect, and all things are prone to issues, some more than others I guess.
Now, if you want a trouble free camera I have a Ansco SureShot box camera that never fails, takes excellent photos under ideal conditions and delivers a bigger negative than the Hasselblad. I'd let it go for probably................
All kidding aside, it's very frustrating dealing with a problem you just can't figure out. I'd be willing to bet it is a simple fix and I could probably fix it, but I haven't seen the camera, so can't say for sure. One thing I will say is there should be nothing stopping that lens from lining up the red dot. Something is stopping that, and it's where your issue is at. Look very, very closely at that bayonet, the cocking area and make sure all are clean and lined up properly. Do this several times and maybe a lightbulb will light, so to speak. I know you're mad, but I still wouldn't abandon a Hasselblad if I could help it.
 

BrianShaw

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This is sad to read, Ralph. But at least you seem to know where your heart is. Good luck in however you proceed.
 

Arthurwg

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Great! What do you think may have changed from that process to make it right again?

Thinking about it, it's possible that the last time I removed the cocked lens from the camera it was not actually cocked all the way, even though the screw pointed correctly. It may have been caused by the relatively light usage of the 500mm, or perhaps the cocking spring has weakened?
 

BrianShaw

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The only real complaint I’ve had about my Hasselblad or its lenses is that on the back of the lens there is only one red dot. If there was a corresponding red dot on the winding rod I’d be just a bit happier since both ends of the coin slit look identical.

I can’t recall if I’ve ever experienced a half-cocked body yet it’s completely plausible.
 
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RalphLambrecht

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when I use the Hasselblad tool or a coin to cock the lens all the way, the drive shaft turnseasily but after letting go of it, it jumps back into a not properly aligned position. There is just no ay to align the red dot precisely.
 

Arthurwg

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when I use the Hasselblad tool or a coin to cock the lens all the way, the drive shaft turnseasily but after letting go of it, it jumps back into a not properly aligned position. There is just no ay to align the red dot precisely.

Did you release the shutter first?
 

BrianShaw

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when I use the Hasselblad tool or a coin to cock the lens all the way, the drive shaft turnseasily but after letting go of it, it jumps back into a not properly aligned position. There is just no ay to align the red dot precisely.

I rarely uncock my lenses but when I don’t seem to recall having to go ever so slightly past the red dot before it latches.
 

Sirius Glass

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when I use the Hasselblad tool or a coin to cock the lens all the way, the drive shaft turns easily but after letting go of it, it jumps back into a not properly aligned position. There is just no ay to align the red dot precisely.

The reason the lens does not stay cocked is that at least one part, possibly the shutter shaft is worn or bent. Have a Hasselblad repairman adjust or repair it. I had that happen to one of my Hasselblad lenses.
 
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RalphLambrecht

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The reason the lens does not stay cocked is that at least one part, possibly the shutter shaft is worn or bent. Have a Hasselblad repairman adjust or repair it. I had that happen to one of my Hasselblad lenses.

It seems whenever one buys a Hasselblad, it is advisable to get a repairman right with it. How did such an unreliable system ever get so sought after?
 

Hassasin

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It's sad to hear issue like these, yet amusing all the same time, looking back at all the unequivocally "certified" comments about Hasselblad - greatest camera system ever - and that's from a lot of people.

I'm not poking fun at anyone, I own a bunch of these now, several bodies, many lenses. As much as I like a good part of it, this is one of the things that always kept me at a distance, while appreciating pretty much every other MF system made to date. Just got Bronica GS and am not sure why I held back for so long.

There is no best out there. Is there a more reliable one than a Hasselblad? The key question is how do we keep any comparison fair, before we speak to a long term reliability.

And here I'd have to say: I don't know if there is another system that requires "milking" it at almost any point of getting a lens on/off or inserting a dark slide into the back (so it doesn't get mangled up).

I've never had to worry about either of these aspects with Bronica or Mamiya,

So I suppose for Hasselblad to remain in a contention for reliability, that extra mind set needs to be considered, and the CLA's at regular intervals (as majority claim is necessary to keep it going), but then it is not a fair comparison.
 

Kino

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Sorry for your troubles, but this makes me feel better about my Kiev 88's...
 

Saganich

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As advised my my Hasselblad repairman, every three months remove the back from the camera and fire every lens 10 to 15 times at 1 second to keep the Hasselblad lens shutters from getting sticky or stuck.

LOL, I have a quarterly reminder on my calendar...'exercise hassy at 1 sec 15x each lens' I often forget anyway. When I jumped in as a novice to the MF equipment world, the 'mystique' of form and function being such an aspect of the identity of the thing was totally a factor in wanting an original 500. The one I purchased was well used and thankfully I sent it straight away to NY for an overhaul, which cost twice what I payed. Sadly, I 'm not sure I would do it again, and so share in the frustration.
 
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Sirius Glass

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It seems whenever one buys a Hasselblad, it is advisable to get a repairman right with it. How did such an unreliable system ever get so sought after?

When I buy a Hasselblad camera body, lens or back I automatically take to my Hasselblad service man at Samy's Camera and he checks it at no cost and makes any necessary adjustments. I do the same with used Nikon equipment and any other camera. A quick trip and I have peace of mind.

I bought a Hasselblad 500mm C lens from KEH at a ridiculously low price. I put it on my camera, fired the lens and it jammed. I could not recock the lens and it was jammed on. So I took it to Samy's Camera and they released the lens from the camera at no charge. I shipped the lens back to KEH and they had to remove all the optics to get to the shutter, do a CLA, reassemble the optics and collimate the lens and ship it back to me. If it had not been under the KEH purchase coverage, that would have been an expensive repair. That can happen with any camera or lens that has sat unused for too long. I had a Mamiya C330 that had a lens free up because it sat for years and it had to be sent out for a CLA.
 
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BrianShaw

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It seems whenever one buys a Hasselblad, it is advisable to get a repairman right with it. How did such an unreliable system ever get so sought after?

Good question. Apparently professional photographers have been completely duped… for a long, long time. Thanks for the enlightenment.
 

MarkS

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Probably because the "unreliable system" had been used professionally for some decades before it came to you.
I used Hasselblads, new and old, on the job for twenty years (some lenses were from the 1960s) and they always worked. I didn't choose the system; it was well established by the time I was hired, but I was happy to work with them.
 

Ai Print

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I started using Hasselblad cameras for work in 1989 and to varying degrees, I have been using them ever since. Any issue I ever had was either by me not getting into the groove of how best to handle and operate them or the big gremlin of bad light seals on a film mag.

In 2010, I decided to replace my otherwise fine late serial number 500 C/M's with 501 C/M's in mint condition. By 2015 I had 4 of them and each one got a full CLA from the late Dave Odess once they passed my initial inspection. They get rotated regularly and all get fired several times every other month along with all my lenses and Flexbodies.

If they are unreliable, then I have been exceptionally lucky because of all the camera systems I have ever used, the Hasselblad V system is the last I could imagine parting with.
 

chuckroast

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As advised my my Hasselblad repairman, every three months remove the back from the camera and fire every lens 10 to 15 times at 1 second to keep the Hasselblad lens shutters from getting sticky or stuck.

This ... so this. Hassys are made for heavy duty pro use. These mechanical bodies and shutters will get grumpy if you let them sit there and the lubricants dry out. Every lens of mine gets take out routinely and fired at various speeds along with working with every back in that same process.
 

Steven Lee

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I don't understand why lubricants would dry out in a Hasselblad but not in a Nikon, especially since high quality synthetic oils and greases have been available for a very long time.
 

MattKing

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I don't understand why lubricants would dry out in a Hasselblad but not in a Nikon, especially since high quality synthetic oils and greases have been available for a very long time.

Having the shutter mechanism in the lens - in some cases a considerable distance from the camera body - presents a significantly different mechanical environment than what you would find in the body of a 35mm SLR.
A better comparison might be between a Hasselblad and a Pentax 67, but even then the complexity of in-lens leaf shutter synching with a moderately complex, larger medium format body is a somewhat different "kettle of fish".
 
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RalphLambrecht

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I don't understand why lubricants would dry out in a Hasselblad but not in a Nikon, especially since high quality synthetic oils and greases have been available for a very long time.

Yes, and I don't understand why I should spend more time on maintenance and CLA than on actually using the cameras. I had a three-months work-them-through cycle too but now, I'm getting scared of it! Will they jam or work?
 

eli griggs

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Really? The only system, from most made, you can name it and I likely have it, Hasselblad is the only one that gave me a wobbling lens in the mount. Never happened with Bronica, Pentax MF or Mamiya.

It sounds like some casual handling has slipped into your lens and body handling and it might be useful, no matter how much experience you have, to go "by the book" or manual and step by step your attempts again.

Also, check your magazine and darkslide positions and the Mirror lockup, just to be certain they are not somehow in play.

One more thing, use your shutter tool to release both the shutter on body and on the lens.

If only one is cocked, releasing it and putting it in place on the camera or lens, should be simple enough and you can then cock the both of them to see if this works.

As far as a lens locked on a body, there is a good video on YouTube on how to remove the back, lock up the curtains and release the mechanism by a simple uninstalling and reinstalling of the lower camera, front bottom panel.

It works and just needs one or two longer shafted jewelers/electrician's/camera repairer's screwdrivers and the Hasselblad cocking tool

Good luck.
 
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Bill Burk

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Yes, and I don't understand why I should spend more time on maintenance and CLA than on actually using the cameras. I had a three-months work-them-through cycle too but now, I'm getting scared of it! Will they jam or work?

Nobody knows Hasselblads better than you. You deserve one that functions as good as new.

I think you should send two candidates for service estimate and let the technician tell you which is the one worth performing a complete overhaul.

Get that one brought up fully to spec.

Let the other be a shelf queen.
 

campy51

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I read once in the service manual on a adjustment of some kind. It states to bend the arm or lever or something like that. Doesn't sound like a precision instrument to me. Remember "bend you break, form you fix".
 
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