Interesting that Harman don't specify what the contrast index is when developed at their recommended times. Is the aim point 0.62 G bar like their other films?
I have lost a few films to ID11 dying on me
Both do NOT have an anti halation layer only in 35mm, and it shows quite clearly when you use both their 120 and 35mm products IME.
Yeah, so it's different in 135 from 120 and sheet film. On the latter two products, there's an anti-curl gelatin layer on the backside of the film, which lends itself well to incorporating an anti-halation dye into as well. Although it can also be coated on a separate layer underneath the actual emulsion layer. On 135, the coloration of the base itself is intended to reduce halation and light piping effects; I'm not sure if there are additional reasons for the color as well. Either way, it seems that the approach in 135 is sometimes (often) not quite as effective as the stronger dye on the larger formats.I always thought that the grey base WAS the anti-Halo
That's pretty odd. How could that die? Did you try to use it after a long time? ID11/D76 lasts a long time in less-than-perfect conditions.
I know Bellini do a liquid Xtol but there is no liquid version of ID11. I may well go back to it because it is excellent, but I now love 510Pyro and FX-39, both of which are economical, and neither of which will die unexpectedly, so I may just stick. I will always be a big fan though of what ID11/D76 produces. Lovely stuff.
I never got FX-39 to work well for me. I tried with some Foma 100 in 120 given all the hype ('best developer EvER for Foma 100!') and got some terrible negatives. Rodinal or D23 are much better for my taste. But I didn't really play with it long enough of course.
You really don't need to use Pyro 510 and give money to James L*ne. Try Adox D76. I'm still using a 1L bottle I prepared a month ago with no issues. I use it 1:3 one shot. Fantastic developer and so easy to prepare, and this comes from a Rodinal guy. It's just ONE bag. You pour the content of the bag in 700ml of the hottest water you can get from your tap, mix for 1 minute, top up to one litre. Done. Much easier than making my own D23, and just as quick as dosing HC110 or Rodinal.
Also, the results are incredible with all films I've used. I don't know if it's me, but I'm getting better negatives with Adox D76 than with Adox XT3.
The distortion in the sky of this image is caused by faulty photographic paper (Easy Print).
OK, thanks; I was just wondering. I didn't know it was discontinued (again?); I was kind of surprised it popped up again a year ago or so, but apparently that was only temporary.It is fresh bought paper. I have the issue in different sizes, charges and surfaces. The issue is visible in flat grey surfaces like the sky only, therefore I still use it up. Anyway, Easy Print has been discontinued now. Only a small rest is still available.
Nice examples. I really like the church interior, where I think the halation works to your advantage. Compared to previously posted examples, contrast is on the high side, but perhaps due to your processing?Kentmere 200, 120, @160, developed in Bellini euroHC 1:31 @20°c for 6 mins
I overdeveloped this. I think I over agitated. Also, the Bellini is a touch more potent than Kodak HC110. I should have remembered, but it's been a while. I found the film to have more body than the 100 or 400 with nice shadow retention, but the halation is very strong if you aren't careful. On close inspection it was a bit grainy, but that could be because I had to fix my dev results in post. I really like this film and will buy it again in 120. Similar price to Foma but without the risk of emulsion issues, that'll do for me.
Nice examples. I really like the church interior, where I think the halation works to your advantage. Compared to previously posted examples, contrast is on the high side, but perhaps due to your processing?
I am anxious to finish up the roll of Kentmere 200 in 120 that I started two weeks ago, but the weather -- and life -- are conspiring against me. :-(
Well when you put it that way, I guess I don't really have an excuse, other than not having grown accustomed to your English sort of weather.you need to get out and shootgrab the drama of shooting whilst being blown sideways I have just been out shooting a Werra Mat on the Lancashire coast where it could rain at any moment and it's blowing up a hooley happy days
The halos around the spear the statue is holding is a bit distracting. Nice photos otherwise.
Is that effect halation or some sort of development edge effect?
Just finished processing my first roll of Kentmere Pan 200 (120). I used fresh Ilford Microphen diluted 1+1 for 7:00 minutes at 20*C, and Ilford's recommended agitation. Much of it was shot under my typical mid-day, mid-continent sunshine, though slightly moderated by a faint haze from the Canada wildfire smoke. I don't think the contrast was anything excessive, and the grain was definitely finer than what I usually see from Kentmere 400. My first impression is that Kentmere Pan 200 is good all-around film. And I do like the shutter speed and aperture combinations I get when shooting at around EI 200 -- for this roll, I metered at EI 160.
Here are a couple of photos that show some halation, but at this level, I kind of like it.
If you want to see the rest of the rest of this roll, it is posted here:
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