Harman Kentmere 200 officially released 2025/05/08

[Lachlan Young]

Having tried a few rolls of 120, I think it's an interesting looking material - and one that is clearly derived from an intended use elsewhere, given its quite profound eccentricities (none of which are bad, if you work with them).

The base + fog is immediately obviously less dense than K400 (for example). The spec sheet pretty much describes it accurately in terms of contrast etc - and like the other Kentmeres it has a narrower window of exposure/ process usage than the Ilford range (i.e. don't try and get too far outside its intended contrast band via exposure/ process manipulation or it'll cause you issues). The halation seems more like an internal emulsion characteristic (and can be quite nice), rather than relating to bleed through the base. In fact, and this might depend on the size of the residual market for traffic surveillance film, I'd go so far as to say that were Harman to replace SFX with a version of K200 using SFX's deep red sensitisers, they may be able to produce a product that could make the IR enthusiasts very happy.

 

[Craig]

Interesting that Harman don't specify what the contrast index is when developed at their recommended times. Is the aim point 0.62 G bar like their other films?

 

[Milpool]

Interesting that Harman don't specify what the contrast index is when developed at their recommended times. Is the aim point 0.62 G bar like their other films?

The ISO speed includes a contrast parameter of ~0.62, though this is measured over a 4 1/3 stop range from the speed point. I would have therefore thought perhaps the “high contrast” description implied a characteristic curve shape with increasing contrast from midtones through highlights. But instead the Kentmere 200 description (not the technical data sheet) refers to a low density base and/or d-min enabling more contrast or a more contrasty look. I’m not sure what they mean by this.

 

[Cerebum]

This is such an interesting thread. I have a roll of 120 that I intend to shoot over the next few days. I was hoping to find some alternative dev times in the conversations but it appears that Xtol, DDX & ID11/D76 are peoples favourite developers, none of which I have. I love liquid developers. I have lost a few films to ID11 dying on me so, whilst I LOVE the results, I can’t relax with it. It’s a personal thing. My favourite developers are 510Pyro and Adox FX-39, but I am struggling to find a comparable film on which to base a starting point with these devs, so any suggestions in that regard would be great. Regarding the film itself, one or two people seem to be reporting a nicer contrast, grain and tonality than you get from pushing K100 or pulling K400, which is great. Kentmere films make film shooting affordable, but I haven’t fallen in love with either the 100 or 400. Regarding comparisons with Fomapan, I shoot the 200 all the time and get great results in pyro. I don’t think we can compare the tonality as like for like because the 100s and 400s are very different indeed to the Kentmere films. Effectively we have a new, different option and I am excited to see the results. One area which I do feel is significant is in quality control in 120. I have had several rolls of fomapan that had the well documented emulsion issues. I now will not buy fomapan 120 film. As for the Kentmere, I have not seen mention of any issues. If it is reliable, they have given us a decent quality, inexpensive 120 film that will allow me to shoot a lot more medium format, which has to be good. My plan is to follow the naked photographers lead and meter it at 160. I just need to get a dev time for either 510Pyro or FX-39. The option being 14mins in Caffenol CH (and my kitchen smelling like an old fish tank). I do love new toys to experiment with

 

[Don_ih]

I have lost a few films to ID11 dying on me

That's pretty odd. How could that die? Did you try to use it after a long time? ID11/D76 lasts a long time in less-than-perfect conditions.

 

[cmacd123]

Both do NOT have an anti halation layer only in 35mm, and it shows quite clearly when you use both their 120 and 35mm products IME.

I always thought that the grey base WAS the anti-Halo

 

[koraks]

I always thought that the grey base WAS the anti-Halo

Yeah, so it's different in 135 from 120 and sheet film. On the latter two products, there's an anti-curl gelatin layer on the backside of the film, which lends itself well to incorporating an anti-halation dye into as well. Although it can also be coated on a separate layer underneath the actual emulsion layer. On 135, the coloration of the base itself is intended to reduce halation and light piping effects; I'm not sure if there are additional reasons for the color as well. Either way, it seems that the approach in 135 is sometimes (often) not quite as effective as the stronger dye on the larger formats.

 

[Craig]

I hadn't though of it until you mentioned it, but 35mm is fundamentally different to roll and sheet films. Those always are handled in total darkness, 35mm has to be able to tolerate daylight exposure to the leader while being loaded in the camera.

I can see why having anti light piping property is necessary for a 35mm base and not needed for 120 or sheet film.

 

[Cerebum]

That's pretty odd. How could that die? Did you try to use it after a long time? ID11/D76 lasts a long time in less-than-perfect conditions.

I presume it is something I did differently, but I don't know what. I used it stock because that worked for me. It was stored in the dark, in a brown glass bottle with a vacuum stopper. The first couple of batches did ten rolls each but the third failed at eight and I lost a very important roll. It was well within the time limit for stock, the stopper still sealed very securely, maybe it was the mix. I know Bellini do a liquid Xtol but there is no liquid version of ID11. I may well go back to it because it is excellent, but I now love 510Pyro and FX-39, both of which are economical, and neither of which will die unexpectedly, so I may just stick. I will always be a big fan though of what ID11/D76 produces. Lovely stuff.

 

[albireo]

I know Bellini do a liquid Xtol but there is no liquid version of ID11. I may well go back to it because it is excellent, but I now love 510Pyro and FX-39, both of which are economical, and neither of which will die unexpectedly, so I may just stick. I will always be a big fan though of what ID11/D76 produces. Lovely stuff.

I never got FX-39 to work well for me. I tried it 1+9 as per datasheet with some Foma 100 in 120 given all the hype ('best developer EvER for Foma 100!') and got some terrible negatives. Rodinal or D23 are much better for my taste. But I didn't really play with it long enough of course.

You really don't need to use Pyro 510 and give money to James L*ne. Try Adox D76. I'm still using a 1L bottle I prepared a month ago with no issues. No marbles, no gas, just a dark plastic bottle stored in a dry cool place. I use it 1:3 one shot. Fantastic developer and so easy to prepare, and this comes from a 'liquid dev' guy like you. It's just ONE bag. You pour the content of the bag in 700ml of the hottest water you can get from your tap, mix for 1 minute, top up to one litre. Done. Much easier than making my own D23, and just as quick as dosing HC110 or Rodinal.

Also, the results are incredible with all films I've used. I don't know if it's me, but I'm getting better negatives with Adox D76 than with anything else, including Adox XT3/Xtol.

 

[Cerebum]

I never got FX-39 to work well for me. I tried with some Foma 100 in 120 given all the hype ('best developer EvER for Foma 100!') and got some terrible negatives. Rodinal or D23 are much better for my taste. But I didn't really play with it long enough of course.

You really don't need to use Pyro 510 and give money to James L*ne. Try Adox D76. I'm still using a 1L bottle I prepared a month ago with no issues. I use it 1:3 one shot. Fantastic developer and so easy to prepare, and this comes from a Rodinal guy. It's just ONE bag. You pour the content of the bag in 700ml of the hottest water you can get from your tap, mix for 1 minute, top up to one litre. Done. Much easier than making my own D23, and just as quick as dosing HC110 or Rodinal.

Also, the results are incredible with all films I've used. I don't know if it's me, but I'm getting better negatives with Adox D76 than with Adox XT3.

Not a fan of the Pyro man eh! Lolol. After my failed batch of ID11 I got some Bellini EuroHC and that gave me comparable results to the ID. It was also great for de-fogging expired film. That bottle done I saw a good deal for Kodak HC110. Same stuff right? ....no it isn't! I never got on with it at all! Isn't it funny how some developers don't mesh with some people. After some horribly thin negatives I bought some Adox CHS100ii film and the recommended FX-39. The results were astronomical and I was hooked. The Pyro came soon after. I use different developers for different films (510Pyro/Foma200, FX-39/UN54, Pan F/Rodinal, Foma400@200/HC110, Caffenol/all of the above) so the eternal shelf life works for me. Having said that, I do rather fancy giving Adox D76 another bash

 

[Sanug]

Some more sample images, taken in Düsseldorf.

The distortion in the sky of this image is caused by faulty photographic paper (Easy Print).

Rolleicord V
Kentmere 200
Adox XT-3, 1+2, 13 Min.
Silver Gelatine Prints

 

[Sanug]

Some other samples.

Pentax ME super, SMC Pentax-M 1.7/50
Kentmere 200, Adox XT-3, 1+2, 13 Min.
Plustek Opticfilm 7300

 

[koraks]

The distortion in the sky of this image is caused by faulty photographic paper (Easy Print).

The mottling? How old is that paper? I used to run into this with EasyPrint about a decade ago. I was under the impression that recent EasyPrint is an improved product that doesn't suffer from this problem, bit perhaps it still does after all, or is this old stock?

 

[Sanug]

It is fresh bought paper. I have the issue in different sizes, charges and surfaces. The issue is visible in flat grey surfaces like the sky only, therefore I still use it up. Anyway, Easy Print has been discontinued now. Only a small rest is still available.

 

[abruzzi]

The halos around the spear the statue is holding is a bit distracting. Nice photos otherwise.

 

[koraks]

It is fresh bought paper. I have the issue in different sizes, charges and surfaces. The issue is visible in flat grey surfaces like the sky only, therefore I still use it up. Anyway, Easy Print has been discontinued now. Only a small rest is still available.

OK, thanks; I was just wondering. I didn't know it was discontinued (again?); I was kind of surprised it popped up again a year ago or so, but apparently that was only temporary.

 

[Cerebum]

Kentmere 200, 120, @160, developed in Bellini euroHC 1:31 @20°c for 6 mins

I overdeveloped this. I think I over agitated. Also, the Bellini is a touch more potent than Kodak HC110. I should have remembered, but it's been a while. I found the film to have more body than the 100 or 400 with nice shadow retention, but the halation is very strong if you aren't careful. On close inspection it was a bit grainy, but that could be because I had to fix my dev results in post. I really like this film and will buy it again in 120. Similar price to Foma but without the risk of emulsion issues, that'll do for me.

 

[runswithsizzers]

Kentmere 200, 120, @160, developed in Bellini euroHC 1:31 @20°c for 6 mins

I overdeveloped this. I think I over agitated. Also, the Bellini is a touch more potent than Kodak HC110. I should have remembered, but it's been a while. I found the film to have more body than the 100 or 400 with nice shadow retention, but the halation is very strong if you aren't careful. On close inspection it was a bit grainy, but that could be because I had to fix my dev results in post. I really like this film and will buy it again in 120. Similar price to Foma but without the risk of emulsion issues, that'll do for me.

Nice examples. I really like the church interior, where I think the halation works to your advantage. Compared to previously posted examples, contrast is on the high side, but perhaps due to your processing?

I am anxious to finish up the roll of Kentmere 200 in 120 that I started two weeks ago, but the weather -- and life -- are conspiring against me. :-(

 

[Cerebum]

Nice examples. I really like the church interior, where I think the halation works to your advantage. Compared to previously posted examples, contrast is on the high side, but perhaps due to your processing?

I am anxious to finish up the roll of Kentmere 200 in 120 that I started two weeks ago, but the weather -- and life -- are conspiring against me. :-(

It is more contrasty than it's siblings, but you're right, I do err on the side of contrasty processing you need to get out and shoot grab the drama of shooting whilst being blown sideways I have just been out shooting a Werra Mat on the Lancashire coast where it could rain at any moment and it's blowing up a hooley happy days

 

[runswithsizzers]

you need to get out and shoot grab the drama of shooting whilst being blown sideways I have just been out shooting a Werra Mat on the Lancashire coast where it could rain at any moment and it's blowing up a hooley happy days

Well when you put it that way, I guess I don't really have an excuse, other than not having grown accustomed to your English sort of weather.