Alan Edward Klein
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Are there any lenses or shutters that come with hard 1/3 or 1/2 stops that click in place has you move the aperture setting lever?
I'd expect most large format shutters not to have any click stops in support of the ability to mount any lens with the correct thread (more or less standardized) and engrave an aperture scale for the specific focal length. Click stops would make sense only on a shutter (almost) exclusively used with a single lens.
Aren't all let's say Copal 0 aperture settings marked the same regardless which lens they're mounted on?
Alan, why did you ask? Do you have application that requires such, um, precision? If so, consider using a TTL light meter such as the Horseman or Sinar.
It's inconvenient.
I have a Schneider Kreuznach 150/5.6 that has 1/4 f-stop clicks. Shutter clicks a single stop.Are there any lenses or shutters that come with hard 1/3 or 1/2 stops that click in place has you move the aperture setting lever?
Anyone can do 4x5 if they have the interest. The concepts and mechanics aren't difficult. Your results might not be that great, but that's not limited to 4x5. Think of it this way, at least your lousy results with 4x5 will have finer grain than 35mm or 120.Don't forget, "if it were easy, anyone could do it."
Dan, I started LF during Covid. Mainly I had been shooting a Mamiya RB67 MF for decades and of course SLR 35mm as well. RB67 lenses have 1/2 stop aperture clicks. It's very convenient if you want to bracket a shot or change the aperture when you add a filter. You don't have to strain your eyes when you adjust the settings. It locks in. It seems that's why camera manufacturers have them in the first place.
Now with LR (I have four lenses), I really have to look clearly at the dials. Sometimes they're hard to see because the lens is high up. I;ve turned the lenses in their mounts if it's possible to do that so I can see the dials better from the side. That helps a little. If you want to adjust a setting if the light changes or you add a filter, you just can't do that by touch, feeling the full stops or 1/3 or 1/2 stop changes. You have to come around the front, line up the dial to see and adjust, much easier to make a mistake. It's inconvenient. The full stop shutter speeds help. But often you only want to change the stop partially, so you need to adjust the aperture.
Anyone can do 4x5 if they have the interest.
Donald, I'm a little confused. Aren't all let's say Copal 0 aperture settings marked the same regardless which lens they're mounted on? Couldn't those hash marks have click stops?
Anyone can do 4x5 if they have the interest.
those little metal plates that have the f-numbers engraved in them are easily interchangeable - that's because they're specific to focal length and many differnt focal length cells can be fitted to the same shutter.
Dan, I started LF during Covid. Mainly I had been shooting a Mamiya RB67 MF for decades and of course SLR 35mm as well. RB67 lenses have 1/2 stop aperture clicks. It's very convenient if you want to bracket a shot or change the aperture when you add a filter. You don't have to strain your eyes when you adjust the settings. It locks in. It seems that's why camera manufacturers have them in the first place.
Now with LR (I have four lenses), I really have to look clearly at the dials. Sometimes they're hard to see because the lens is high up. I;ve turned the lenses in their mounts if it's possible to do that so I can see the dials better from the side. That helps a little. If you want to adjust a setting if the light changes or you add a filter, you just can't do that by touch, feeling the full stops or 1/3 or 1/2 stop changes. You have to come around the front, line up the dial to see and adjust, much easier to make a mistake. It's inconvenient. The full stop shutter speeds help. But often you only want to change the stop partially, so you need to adjust the aperture.
Surely, but between handling sheet film in the dark (vs. roll film), dealing with film holders, learning "the dance" as Matt Marrash calls it, and dealing with the larger, heavier, less automated cameras and so forth, 4x5 isn't even the kind of "easy" 120 in, say, a 1950s TLR is. There's a learning curve, and a fairly steep one, even for experienced manual photographers in smaller formats, and the more of the "real" 4x5 experience you go for (movements, for instance, ground glass focus and composition, or color) the less "easy" is left in this form of photography. And never forget the cost, which makes learning more stressful, but without the instant feedback of similarly or higher priced Polaroids.
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