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Handholdability of medium format cameras

I do very well hand held with my Mamiya M6 and 50mm and M7 with 60mm. Also, I find my Hasselblad with a 60mm lens is also excellent. Of course, wider lenses make this easier.
 
I have at least one of each main style of medium format camera. My TLRs are the best for handheld shooting at slow speeds. The Bronica SQ-A with or without speed grip is in the middle as are the folders which have body release buttons. The worst is actually the heaviest—a Koni-Omega. The left finger release has a very long travel and needs lots of force. I am uncomfortable below 1/250 with that one and its normal 90mm lens.
 
I've not found any of my MF cameras except for one, to be difficult to shoot hand held.

I have the Hasselblad 501CM...no problems there.
I have the Fuji GSW690 III, no problems there.
I have the Yashica MAT 124G...no problems there.

Really the only MF camera I have trouble hand holding is the Shen Hao 6x17.....just a bit of a PITA to try to hand hold that view camera, especially on a windy day with the dark cloth blowing around all over trying to hold it and the camera....haha.

cayenne
 

I'm with you on this one. The most awkward camera for handholding I ever owned was a Mokva 5 6x9 folder, exactly the same issues with movement on shutter release. Holga and Diana were not much better; the lightweight, flimsy-feeling stuff just doesn't work for me.

Never had a problem with my Pentax 6x7, Bronica S2A or ETRs, Hassy 500 C/M, Koni-Omega, my TLRs or anything else that I can get my hands around. TLRs in particular, I'm very confident at 1/15.
 
I have largely used my Zeiss Ikon Nettar for handheld work, but my ability to frame shots in the viewfinder is so-so at best, and ability to guesstimate focus with a cold-shoe rangefinder that falls out of calibration in a slight breeze is even less so.

I've tried handholding my Zeiss Ikoflex TLR with a pistol grip, but still add too much shake with the shutter release button on anything slower than 1/100. Using the release cable is much better, but at that point I might as well just use a lightweight tripod, as either way I'm still restricted to waist-level shots.

Therefore I took the plunge on an ARAX 60 (Kiev 60 rebuild), currently on the way, which I hope to become my primary handholding camera since it has both the eye-level finder and mirror lock-up.
 
Although I can hand hold my Mamiya Universal without issue, my Yashica 124 and D are also very easy to hand hold, just the way it is built, for interchangeable lens maybe a Mamiya 220, little lighter than the 330.
 
Rolleicords and such. Super light little sexy babies.
 
Lady demonstrating the way to brace a TLR for handheld shooting

---actually, this is from the Diacord manual. She's demonstrating the "hidden" technique.

 
I tested most of the rangefinder folders (and I have mamiyas of the C series and the universal/press series as well). it's true that holding a C steady is very easy. my favorite choice hand held are 6x4.5 format: the fuji GA series for easy shooting (wide in my case) or a pearl III
 
There's one medium format camera I would definitely say is difficult to hand-hold: a Fuji GX680. That thing is a beast- all the burdens of a 4x5 without all the benefits. Yes, it offers a little bit of movement, but only on the front standard. And it's heavier than many 4x5's, without the square inches of film.
 
I have had varied success through the years hand-holding MF cameras. Some were much better than others.
Some were only good for flash photography when hand held. Others gave reasonably sharp images at 1/30 second.
I have never used a stabilization gyro like this but have considered it. I wonder if anyone else has used one.

I did just get a Rollei Hy6 but don't have enough film through it to see if it is the 'end all' camera for medium format hand held. It has a very convenient mirror lock up button (that lets you put the mirror back down if you decide not to expose!) and electronic shutter release with an electronic in-lens leaf shutter with light-weight blades.

When I release the mirror first, I can't detect any motion with my hands as I hold the camera and release the shutter. Seems absolutely amazing but I still need to print the pictures to see.

 
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I hardly ever hold my Rolleiflex at waist level when shooting, except for some candid shots. Used it often as illustrated by picture of girl with camera. What makes Rolleiflex an excellent candid camera is the undetectable sound of shutter release. I’ve always held it close to my eye looking down finder. I sometimes use pistol grip with prism finder. Otherwise I don’t see how pistol grip would make much sense unless using sportsfinder application of viewfinder hood.
 
I used a Kenyon Gyro stabilizer years ago with a 16mm movie camera. It keeps the camera pretty steady, weighs a ton and you have to wrestle with it to move the camera for composition purposes. I believe motion picture steady-cam rigs have gyros. An every steady-cam operator I have met is a sturdy, strong person. Even the women.
 
How do you find your Hy6 handles slow shutter speeds?
 
ic-racer said:
How do you find your Hy6 handles slow shutter speeds?
Click to expand...
I haven't really tried hand-holding at speeds below 1/60, but it seems fine there with some bracing against my body. I need to make the mirror lock-up/self-timer thing part of my repertoire. It certainly doesn't have the mass and inertia of the 6008i, but the mirror action seems a bit less harsh. I am starting to find the high-pitch whine of the motor wind at the end of the roll bit bothersome--not that that would affect anything but me and the subjects.
 
When handholding my Agfa Record I bypass the shutter release button and use the lever at the lens itself. With my miniature Crown Graphic when handholding I also use the lever itself and not the body shutter release or a shutter release cable.
 

I came to the same conclusions both about how easy it is to handhold (1/15th is achievable), the optical excellence - and the dislike for the particular focal length/ format of the GW690! I keep wondering about getting a GSW680 or GW670, both of which have format shapes/ focal length relationships I prefer...

Then again, I've had decent results with Pentax 6x7's handheld down to quite low shutter speeds & with wider lenses - I suspect that cheap/ lightweight tripods are more to blame for all the problems people seem to have with them at middling shutter speed ranges...
 
There are many handholdable MF cameras: Hasselbald, Mamiya TLRs, Rollei SLRs and TLRs for starters.
 
Bormental said:
No, for starters there's this.
Click to expand...

I easily used all the cameras that I mentioned in low light level settings without needing a tripod. You are hung up on the fallacious mirror bounce myth.
 
Sirius Glass said:
I easily used all the cameras that I mentioned in low light level settings without needing a tripod. You are hung up on the fallacious mirror bounce myth.
Click to expand...

I was speaking from experience, i.e only about cameras I own. Unfortunately couldn't afford a Hasselblad, but still dreaming Also, the video is unimpressive:
  • Camera is already stabilized on a flat surface
  • The mass of the moving parts doesn't go left/right, so the penny had nothing to worry about
 
Rotation along X and Y is the main contributors to camera shake.
To a lesser extent rotation around Z.

And shifting movement along any of the axis, is of little concern.

But of course, the closer you get to the subject the more important any kind of motion is.

This is worth keeping in mind when trying to stabilize your camera.

Don’t create a hinge point at any side of the camera by resting it against something and then have it wobbling at the other end, with a free floating hand holding it.

A string tripod only tied to the tripod bushing will only stabilize X and Z rotation. Not Y.
Better to secure the string to two points on a bracket.

Flash/handle brackets actually help, even with no flash, since it works as kind of a lever reduction gear for your hand trembling on the handle.
Support the camera from underneath with lightly a clenched fist to your chest, to not create the aforementioned hinge though, and trigger the camera with a remote trigger/wire from the handle.
 
Right.
A coin on edge is also actually surprisingly stabile. You can bang along with your hands on a table with a balancing coin on it, without having it fall over.

The main problems with the mirror is the high frequency, spiky mechanical/sound shockwave it sends through everything, including film.

And secondly, not to be underestimated, the psychological and psychoacoustic (very visceral, instinctive behavior) anticipation and exertion of the pushing of the button, that also in its travel initiates the triggering of the mirror.
The little click of only a leaf shutter is a much more relaxed experience.
 
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I can shoot my Hasselblad 501c handheld at 1/60 and even at 1/30 and get remarkable results. With the 250mm lens I can get away with you handheld.
 

I have handhold my Pentax 67II with the 105 mm at 1/30 without noticeable blurr several times, and with portraits, but the camera weight could be inconvenient for some persons. That is why I don't name it among the MF handholdable kings, but it is my default camera for everything that does not involve flash.

I agree that the tripod is the one to blame, and it is also one of the reasons because many of them have a hook to hang some weight to increase stability and decrease vibrations.

 
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