Grafmatics and Septums

[glbeas]

I’ll just pass on that old Grafmatic sometimes hang up if you try to rack the film with the lens pointed down. I have never had that problem when operating the Grafmatic with the camera held in the shooting position.

Ive usually been able to unhang that by tipping the camera up and trying again. This problem is usually from the film sliding loose in the septum and can be alleviated by tightening the pinch point on the septum.

 

[Donald Qualls]

My septums hold the film correctly (slips in with slight resistance the last quarter inch, pulls out with that same resistance the first quarter); don't think there'll be a problem. Possibly the biggest issue is they're noisy in operation. Focal plane or leaf shutter are fairly quiet, and then there's this big old "Clack, clack!" with each cycle of the dark slide (once before, and once after the exposure).

 

[Sirius Glass]

Ive usually been able to unhang that by tipping the camera up and trying again. This problem is usually from the film sliding loose in the septum and can be alleviated by tightening the pinch point on the septum.

I agree, if the film slips loose then the pinch point needs to be tightened.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Okay, I got my Graflok back from 20th Century Camera today -- they make and sell a 3D printed replacement to fit a Pacemaker, even send tiny wood screws with it for mounting.

The three holes at the bottom of the back match up well with the originals (though the originals are tiny machine screws that go into metal brackets, at least on my Annie), but the two top holes are more than an inch too close together. Shouldn't be any big deal to drill new holes, though I don't look forward to the multiple iterations of "cut a little and try it again" it's likely to take to get the countersinks exactly the right depth (these are not very long screws -- I'd guess they're #0 or #2 and threaded length about 1/8") without making an oversize hole all the way through.

If I'd known there was this much difference, I'd probably have contacted 20th Century to ask if they could make one with Annie hole spacing; it should be trivial to change the locations of the holes in their print files (especially if I were to send them my spare spring back to measure). I'll get it to work, but it's a couple hour project, instead of fifteen minutes to remove and replace five screws).

 

[shutterfinger]

As you have found out a Pacemaker 4x5 back is not a direct fit for the Anniversary Speed.
The service manual https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/Graflex-Anniversary-Speedgraphic-Service.pdf shows the screws to be #2-56 x 3/16 inch.

I found the frame indicator wheel for film imprinting. You can have it to mangle with pliers for $25,000,000.

 

[grat]

They seem to be pretty reasonable people-- contact them, ask if they'll take it back, and send a template for the holes on your model.

For them, it's a few minutes of tweaking the 3D model, and then however long it takes to print a new frame.

 

[Donald Qualls]

As you have found out a Pacemaker 4x5 back is not a direct fit for the Anniversary Speed.
The service manual https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/Graflex-Anniversary-Speedgraphic-Service.pdf shows the screws to be #2-56 x 3/16 inch.

I found the frame indicator wheel for film imprinting. You can have it to mangle with pliers for $25,000,000.

Yep. Darned design changes 70 years ago... Anyway, price negotiation in progress, let's knock a few zeros off that figure.

They seem to be pretty reasonable people-- contact them, ask if they'll take it back, and send a template for the holes on your model.

For them, it's a few minutes of tweaking the 3D model, and then however long it takes to print a new frame.

I think I'll do that before i drill holes -- might be an issue drilling through 3D printed parts, anyway, due to infill levels (saves filament and print time).