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flatulent1

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I have a IN-RS I sometimes think would be pretty cool to shoot skateboarders with. Set metering to manual, mount a 16-35 zoom, follow-focusing shouldn't be too difficult.
 

Wade D

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I already mentioned air shows so how about rodeos? Lots of action there as well.
 

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When I saw this thread title, I thought it was going to be about something listed in the classifieds at a really good price :smile:.
 

ntenny

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I already mentioned air shows so how about rodeos? Lots of action there as well.

That's the first thing I thought of too. Or just a turned-out horse in a bucking fit. I'm forever trying to catch the moment when the horse is up in the air looking dramatic, and *just* missing.

-NT
 
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Top speeds of around 7 (EOS 3) to 10fps for an EOS 1N-RS with PDBE1 often used in research situations like crash-testing to follow the impact sequence of the dummy in during and after impact. Rapid expenditure over many / all frames was once very useful also in modelling to catch each and every rapid pose and pout, but it is (probably was) a hell of an expensive way to burn film...

The 2CR5 batteries for the EOS cameras don't have very good longevity compared to AA alkaline or the lighter FR6 lithium and as you point out, availability is hard. AA batteries are abundant, but try getting a fresh, reliable 2CR5 in Kathmandu!
 

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Also try multiple exposures with that fast speed... I use it a lot with my 50e (Elan IIe) that's a lot slower. Just set it to 8 exposures per frame, compensate exposure by 3 stops downward and click away. I got more than 3 seconds that way, but 1 second of life in one picture sounds very interesting. Of course you'd still need to find something fast to see a noticable movement - there are more than enough suggestions in this thread.
 
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rcam72

rcam72

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try getting a fresh, reliable 2CR5 in Kathmandu!

I ran into a similar situation in Colombia last year. That's what got me thinking about the PB-E2.

You mean men in skirts and high heels running

Being somewhat close to Greenwich Village, it would probably be easier for me to shoot this than a rodeo or airshow:D Though all three are interesting options.

There's a lot of great ideas here. Thank you all for exposing my lack of creativity. I'd go set my darkroom on fire but it's in closet mode right now.

-Raul
 
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rcam72

rcam72

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Also try multiple exposures with that fast speed... I use it a lot with my 50e (Elan IIe) that's a lot slower. Just set it to 8 exposures per frame, compensate exposure by 3 stops downward and click away. I got more than 3 seconds that way, but 1 second of life in one picture sounds very interesting. Of course you'd still need to find something fast to see a noticable movement - there are more than enough suggestions in this thread.

It sounds interesting. Sequential frames with multiple exposures of the sequential action within each frame. I'd like to see an example of that.

8x36=288/5.15=56, so slowest shutter speed would be 1/60?? in order to finish the roll in the shortest time (for EOS 3 w/PB-E2). I think I'm calculating it right.

-Raul
 

hpulley

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My 1N RS will rip through a 36 roll in 3.6 seconds. This is useful for wildlife especially something like a pair or group of birds flying in for a landing to catch all the splashes or similarly when taking off; or attack sequences. In sports it can be useful for all kinds of things, every move from windup to hit/pitch/throw to follow through to reactions afterward. Timed stuff like water drop effects from before to hit to after-ripples.

With the pellicle mirror of the 1N RS there is no mirror blackout so they other thing you can do is stop taking shots as soon as the desired action has stopped and you can focus manually while it is shooting as well. With normal SLRs I find the blackout means it is tough to follow as the precise moment you were anticipating is blacked out and you don't always know if you got it or if it didn't occur yet.
 

moki

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It sounds interesting. Sequential frames with multiple exposures of the sequential action within each frame. I'd like to see an example of that.

8x36=288/5.15=56, so slowest shutter speed would be 1/60?? in order to finish the roll in the shortest time (for EOS 3 w/PB-E2). I think I'm calculating it right.

-Raul

Here's an example: http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff252/mogul-/foddo/IMG_4964.jpg
It's somewhat like a long exposure, but with the "ghosts" being sharp, not smeared. I think, that picture wasn't at full speed either, more like one exposure per second, but the principle is the same. It can also be done with a stroboscopic flash and long exposure, but I find this method easier and a lot cheaper.

And something similar, but without tripod and only 4 exposures (minus two stops): http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff252/mogul-/foddo/IMG_4947.jpg
Holding the camera steady enough for that time (about 1,6 seconds) is obviously not possible.


1/60 is probably too long, because the mirror needs to go up and down each time, unless you can turn that off with some custom function. 1/100 seems more realistic when you want to go full speed.
 

bblhed

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I say go old school, remake one of Edison's first movies The Sneeze.

Sneeze
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Laurent

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Top speeds of around 7 (EOS 3) to 10fps for an EOS 1N-RS with PDBE1 often used in research situations like crash-testing to follow the impact sequence of the dummy in during and after impact. Rapid expenditure over many / all frames was once very useful also in modelling to catch each and every rapid pose and pout, but it is (probably was) a hell of an expensive way to burn film...

The 2CR5 batteries for the EOS cameras don't have very good longevity compared to AA alkaline or the lighter FR6 lithium and as you point out, availability is hard. AA batteries are abundant, but try getting a fresh, reliable 2CR5 in Kathmandu!

Experience told me that AA batteries in a PBE2 and EOS3 can last a long time... but will die very suddenly ! When I'm to shoot something important, I will charge the batteries just before, as I cannot trust the battery tester.
 
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rcam72

rcam72

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I say go old school, remake one of Edison's first movies The Sneeze

With all the press Uncle Mo is getting here in New York, I was thinking about pulling a Muybridge and going to Belmont after it opens in a couple of weeks. I think that's older school than Edison:D.

-Raul
 
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Experience told me that AA batteries in a PBE2 and EOS3 can last a long time... but will die very suddenly ! When I'm to shoot something important, I will charge the batteries just before, as I cannot trust the battery tester.


I have never had AA batteries die suddenly on me, certainly not if alkalines. I do not know if there is any truth to stories that the EOS 3 has a higher power drain than its earlier brethren (1-series). Lithium FR6 batteries, while saving weight in the PDBE1 (small design modifications for this between EOS 3 and the earlier EOS1-series) and indifferent to the cold and heat, will certainly go into a death dive abrubtly, sometimes at the most critical time — winding on (e.g. incomplete/frozen). When that happens, it's into the changing bag and coerce the roll out of the camera, rewind it, change the batteries, reload the film, expose blanks to the stop and continue. <gurmble> All in a day's work... :smile:
 
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