Getting Fiber Based Paper Flat

[gone]

Almost one year ago to the day I was trying different methods to get FB paper flat (RC has never been an issue). I still dry FB papers by hanging them at one corner w/ a clothes pin in the bathroom.

You know, it works really well, and the papers have a gentle curve towards the emulsion side w/ no wavy edges. The main thing is to let them dry as slowly as possible. When they're dry, they go under some books and come out flat as the RC papers a few days later.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I take the FB and PC papers off my drum dryer and lay them flat to finish drying and cool. Using a drum dryer solves most of the flatness problems.

 

[logan2z]

I still dry FB papers by hanging them at one corner w/ a clothes pin in the bathroom.

I assume that leaves a permanent 'dent' in the paper.

Not that this applies to me, but I would think that could be an issue when selling a print.

 

[Philippe-Georges]

Almost one year ago to the day I was trying different methods to get FB paper flat (RC has never been an issue). I still dry FB papers by hanging them at one corner w/ a clothes pin in the bathroom.

You know, it works really well, and the papers have a gentle curve towards the emulsion side w/ no wavy edges. The main thing is to let them dry as slowly as possible. When they're dry, they go under some books and come out flat as the RC papers a few days later.

How do you do that?

I tried that hanging method different times with even different FB papers, and never ever achieved 'manageable' results. All the sheets curled, towards the emulsion side, in a way I had to wet them again so at least I could have a look at the images.

 

[Bill Burk]

Someone like Bob Carnie might and he dries his fiber prints emulsion side down:

Best method for drying fibre paper?

I suspect this topic has been discussed before, but I couldn't find a proper thread. Question: What are your best/most efficient/easiest methods for drying fibre based photo paper? Reveal your McGyver-in the darkroom-skills here and now. Personally I have boiled it down to two methods that I...

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I do it because the prints dry significantly flatter that way and are then much easier to completely flatten in a dry mount press.

I haven't seen any signs of the screen pattern transferring to my prints, but you obviously have and I've heard of other cases in which this has happened too. Maybe as you suggested, it depends on the screen material and how tautly it is stretched, which could affect how much contact there is between the screen and the emulsion during the drying process.

You may have read my complaint before (there’s probably no “others”). As far as I know, I am the only one with bug mesh screens. It just happened to be the material I had on hand when I made them.

 

[Philippe-Georges]

You may have read my complaint before (there’s probably no “others”). As far as I know, I am the only one with bug mesh screens. It just happened to be the material I had on hand when I made them.

Polyester bug screens here too, dry the carefully wiped prints emulsion down, no problems at all and the flattest result!
But, I systematically thoroughly clean the screens with warm water and a little bit of an enzyme resolving detergent added to it to get rid of the emulsion's gelatine leftovers...

 

[removedacct2]

I ran out of old type gummed paper tape, for holding fiber paper on glass plates for drying. I have to order by some art supplies shop. So I was thinking what alternative could work.

I grabbed a roll of Micropore-like surgical tape. After I press the photo sheet on the glass and wipe the excess water, I dry with a bit of absorbing kitchen paper the glass around the edges.
Works well and in fact it's better than gummed tape: no need to wet it, no risk of liquified gum sneaking around.

 

[koraks]

Neat!

Does it work on somewhat larger prints as well, do you reckon?

 

[CMoore]

I ran out of old type gummed paper tape, for holding fiber paper on glass plates for drying. I have to order by some art supplies shop. So I was thinking what alternative could work.

I grabbed a roll of Micropore-like surgical tape. After I press the photo sheet on the glass and wipe the excess water, I dry with a bit of absorbing kitchen paper the glass around the edges.
Works well and in fact it's better than gummed tape: no need to wet it, no risk of liquified gum sneaking around.


View attachment 322231

View attachment 322230

On a side not....
Can you talk about those photos.?
From days gone by i assume.?
The shot of the building looks nice.!

 

[GRHazelton]

Way back in the day my Father and I used a commercial print flattening solution which was diluted with water; the prints got a final brief soak and then were ferrotyped or whatever. The active ingredient of the solution was ethelyne glycol, rather poisonous! But I imagine that propolyne glycol would work as well; it is used to treat wood salad bowls to prevent splitting. Both compounds are hygroscopid, thus they help keep the print from drying so completely that it curls.

 

[removedacct2]

Does it work on somewhat larger prints as well

the prints on this picture are 8x10, I don't print larger than 24x30,5 (cm). But I guess there should be no problem, the tape sticks well on the glass (or plexiglass), enough to hold a bigger piece of paper.

 

[Paul Verizzo]

Way back in the day my Father and I used a commercial print flattening solution which was diluted with water; the prints got a final brief soak and then were ferrotyped or whatever. The active ingredient of the solution was ethelyne glycol, rather poisonous! But I imagine that propolyne glycol would work as well; it is used to treat wood salad bowls to prevent splitting. Both compounds are hygroscopid, thus they help keep the print from drying so completely that it curls.

Ethylene glycol is just anti-freeze. Yes, toxic in relatively large quantities.

 

[GRHazelton]

Ethylene glycol is just anti-freeze. Yes, toxic in relatively large quantities.

My Father, PhD in ChemEng from Michigan, knew that! He commented that one could dip a finger tip in E Glycol and safely note the sweet taste...that taste has killed many pets who found where E Glycol was dumped after changing radiator coolant. I wonder why antifreeze makers haven't switched to P Gycol....cost perhaps?

 

[removedacct2]

On a side not....
Can you talk about those photos.?
From days gone by i assume.?
The shot of the building looks nice.!

I was visiting few days sister in a small town in France earlier this year, was carrying a 8x10, few film holders and a box of 50 Fomapan 100. It's cheap film and I was taking random shots here and there.
The house pictured there was built in 1548 for Diane de Poitiers, the mistress of king Henri IV of France. It has kept its Renaissance features like the entrance door of the tower, some windows stone framing and other small details.
The place has a story related our own childhood and I lived there as a 4 years old. I had an Apo-Gerogon 240mm in the bag. So i tried to capture most of the house, with sister and nephew posing in front. I could not have more perspective because this is inside a small square, I was standing at the very opposite corner.

I did previous prints on RC, as well as A3 hi-quality injkets from scan, but nothing is like fiber paper...
This is Fomabrom 112 (matte) in Fomatol P (phenidone ascorbate)

a contact print of the 8x10 negative, and, the 2nd sheet is an enlarging of sister and nephews by sneaking into my Opemus 6x6 the bottom of the 8x10 negative , sandwiched between 2 strips I cut in a 3mm plate of glass, for planarity and hold.

 

[Paul Verizzo]

My Father, PhD in ChemEng from Michigan, knew that! He commented that one could dip a finger tip in E Glycol and safely note the sweet taste...that taste has killed many pets who found where E Glycol was dumped after changing radiator coolant. I wonder why antifreeze makers haven't switched to P Gycol....cost perhaps?

Indeed. A well known mystery plot, the sweet syrup on ice cream.

The trope about pets lapping it up has been around since forever, not sure if it is a real thing. Speaking as a 60 year amateur mechanic, I can't imagine draining antifreeze and then letting it sit in a puddle. A guy would flush it away with a hose.

I had a sister-in-law who tried to kill herself with antifreeze. She failed, although as best as I can recall, it messed her up enough that she then qualified for disability. Sadly, she met her goal a few years later by hanging herself.

I really don't know about the poly vs ethylene glycol business. Poly is used for winter proofing RV pipes and toilets and in summer homes. The use of ethylene is probably just inertia. Don't forget, antifreeze is a witch's brew of many additives beyond the basic glycol.

 

[CMoore]

I was visiting few days sister in a small town in France earlier this year, was carrying a 8x10, few film holders and a box of 50 Fomapan 100. It's cheap film and I was taking random shots here and there.
The house pictured there was built in 1548 for Diane de Poitiers, the mistress of king Henri IV of France. It has kept its Renaissance features like the entrance door of the tower, some windows stone framing and other small details.
The place has a story related our own childhood and I lived there as a 4 years old. I had an Apo-Gerogon 240mm in the bag. So i tried to capture most of the house, with sister and nephew posing in front. I could not have more perspective because this is inside a small square, I was standing at the very opposite corner.

I did previous prints on RC, as well as A3 hi-quality injkets from scan, but nothing is like fiber paper...
This is Fomabrom 112 (matte) in Fomatol P (phenidone ascorbate)

a contact print of the 8x10 negative, and, the 2nd sheet is an enlarging of sister and nephews by sneaking into my Opemus 6x6 the bottom of the 8x10 negative , sandwiched between 2 strips I cut in a 3mm plate of glass, for planarity and hold.


View attachment 322244

Very Interesting
Thank You

 

[IMetodiev]

I use the gummed tape on glass method, it works well but it's rather fussy, and requires larger sacrificial margins on the print

 

[rodstew]

Maybe I missed something, but I'm surprised that I haven't found any mention of the method we use quite often here in this part of the world. After washing, put the print face up on a plate of glass (with appropriate thickness) and fix the border with an adhesive tape, the whole perimeter, about 5mm on the print should be sufficient. It must be the old fashioned brown paper tape which is usually licked to get wet (or passed over a wet sponge, but do not wet it too much). Let the whole thing dry until the next day (don't hurry too much) and then cut the print with the stuck tape from the glass and then cut off the border strip with the tape (or hide it under a passe-partout). Especially with "F" papers the surface will get a very nice smooth look and will be perfectly flat.
The forces which try to contract the print when drying may be quite big with large prints, that's why the glass should be thick enough (5mm for 30 x40 cm will do).

Great tip! Thanks for sharing. Simple is best!

 

[Sirius Glass]

Great tip! Thanks for sharing. Simple is best!

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!​

 

[silvercloud2323]

Hi,

I like to print with baryta paper but am aware that it seem to curl a lot.

What is your advice for drying baryta paper so it becomes flat. Without a heated, expensive press.
Is it enough to put it for example between a book for a night?

thank you

 

[UnderwoodPhoto]

1/4" thick piece of glass, buffed with car wax. Squeegee print to the glass and place in a barely warm oven. Cheep ferrotyping without the ferro.

 

[russgorman]

Wash it. squeegee it. dry it face down on plastic mesh window screens. occasionally wash screens with bleach+ water and then rinse twith water horoughly to avoid carryover contamination.

to flatten I use a dry mount press with print between to archival boards. lacking that, I use the reverse curl thingy from Zone VI (it's a clamp to hold prints as a small stack slightly curled towards the silver surface of print so they lay flay when released. alternatively once dry, press prints betwen books.

 

[Maris]

In a pinch it is possible to get a curly fibre base print tolerably flat by "breaking" it. I do this by giving it a slight reverse bend and pulling it down (emulsion side up !) across the edge of my work bench. Work steadily and repeat in several directions until it is flat enough. Some small practice required.

 

[Old_Dick]

You might want to google youtube for "diy book press". I also looked at Amazon, interesting, low budget solution from both.

 

[Don_ih]

Let it dry however and then use a regular clothes iron. Put a piece of parchment paper over it (not wax paper) and iron it on something hard and flat.