FUJI HUNT Environeg Developer Replenisher C41 Air Control

[calvinshootsfilm]

Hello guys I'm new here and have started shooting 35mm Film recently, to develop I previously used simple starter kits to develop film in my paterson tank and it came out fine,

just recently I decided to purchase bulk developer the "FUJI HUNT Environeg Developer Replenisher C41 Air Control" I am so lost in how to use this as I have read developer and replenisher are two different things, I just want to make developer that's all.
it came with some instructions however it didn't come with developing times and other important instructions. If someone could assist me on the process I would be appreciate it very much. Thank you.

 

[halfaman]

I use the same chemistry, it works great and it is is really cheap.

You need to mix the "developer", and you need also the starter to do it (Environeg Universal Starter AC). Development times in C41 are standarized, 3 minutes and 15 seconds at 37.8º C +/- 0.3º C if I recall correctly.

Find below the latest Fuji Hunt technical bulletin of C41 chemistry.

TB C41 E01_10-20 (fujifilm.com)

 

[koraks]

I use the same chemistry, it works great and it is is really cheap.

Same here. And indeed, the starter is also needed.

it came with some instructions however it didn't come with developing times and other important instructions.

So you've got the mixing instructions; I assume those are clear for you.

Otherwise it's just a regular C41 process, so develop for 3:15 at 100F/37.8C with continuous or at least very frequent agitation.
Other process steps are according to the chemistry you use for that, with temperature requirements considerably less strict than for the development step, and bleach + fix times in accordance with the specifications that come with the chemistry used. Both bleach and fix go to completion so don't be afraid to over-bleach or over-fix as that's simply impossible. So in case of doubt, bleach and fix for say 7 minutes each and you should be good regardless of the chemistry you use (rapid access chemistry will be much, much faster).

Can you specify what questions you have in particular? It seems to me you're pretty much all set and if you successfully used the consumer-level chemistry this new developer won't be a challenge whatsoever apart from mixing it correctly, which is easy enough as well.

 

[calvinshootsfilm]

ahh thats amazing thank you I really appreciate it!

 

[koraks]

You're welcome. Don't forget to shop for the starter though. You negatives WILL be way off the mark if you try it without the starter, which artificially ages the developer, making it perform as if several rolls of film have been run through it already. Without starter the developer is far too active and won't yield correct color balance. It'll be a mess although I'm sure someone will come in at some point claiming it works fine without the starter...

 

[AgX]

At a replenishing kit there is no developer in the proper sense. To avoid another unnecessary concentrate in larger volume, a smaller volume concentrate is part of such kit.
By adding a small amount of this concentrate to the replenisher you get the developer concentrate you are used to as amateur.
Only if you do not discard the resulting developing bath after a run (runs), but want to replenish, you add to this bath some replenisher after each run.
Thus at a replenished proces you only once need a starter, from then on you add and add just replenisher. Only if such proces runs out of tolerance, you have to make a new batch, with a bit of starter.

 

[calvinshootsfilm]

Same here. And indeed, the starter is also needed.


So you've got the mixing instructions; I assume those are clear for you.

Otherwise it's just a regular C41 process, so develop for 3:15 at 100F/37.8C with continuous or at least very frequent agitation.
Other process steps are according to the chemistry you use for that, with temperature requirements considerably less strict than for the development step, and bleach + fix times in accordance with the specifications that come with the chemistry used. Both bleach and fix go to completion so don't be afraid to over-bleach or over-fix as that's simply impossible. So in case of doubt, bleach and fix for say 7 minutes each and you should be good regardless of the chemistry you use (rapid access chemistry will be much, much faster).

Can you specify what questions you have in particular? It seems to me you're pretty much all set and if you successfully used the consumer-level chemistry this new developer won't be a challenge whatsoever apart from mixing it correctly, which is easy enough as well.

what bleach and fix do I have to use as there are so many? could you link the it please. thank you.

 

[calvinshootsfilm]

At a replenishing kit there is no developer in the proper sense. To avoid another unnecessary concentrate in larger volume, a smaller volume concentrate is part of such kit.
By adding a small amount of this concentrate to the replenisher you get the developer concentrate you are used to as amateur.
Only if you do not discard the resulting developing bath after a run (runs), but want to replenish, you add to this bath some replenisher after each run.
Thus at a replenished proces you only once need a starter, from then on you add and add just replenisher. Only if such proces runs out of tolerance, you have to make a new batch, with a bit of starter.

okay I understand thank you

 

[calvinshootsfilm]

would you guys recommend creating a Blix solution to make it easier or should I separate the two steps to yield better control and quality?

 

[calvinshootsfilm]

which one of these ratios should I be following and also what does tank and tank from rep mean, sorry im new to this haha just want to learn as im really getting into film and want to develop at home.

 

[AgX]

Maybe you read again what I posted above, and then what follows here:

"Replenisher" means the working solution of replenisher

"Tank" means the working solution of the classic developer amateurs are used to.

"Tank from Replenisher" means "Tank"-solution made from "Replenisher"-solution

 

[AgX]

Concerning BLIX:
having Bleach and Fixer apart is benefitial for the image quality

 

[calvinshootsfilm]

Maybe you read again what I posted above, and then what follows here:

"Replenisher" means the working solution of replenisher

"Tank" means the working solution of the classic developer amateurs are used to.

"Tank from Replenisher" means "Tank"-solution made from "Replenisher"-solution

okay I understand now thank you

 

[koraks]

what bleach and fix do I have to use as there are so many?

Any kind will do. Just buy whatever you can get your hans on. Separate bleach and fixer is nice, but blixes work fairly well too. You don't have to pick a particular bleach and/or fixer depending on the developer; those steps are pretty much disjunct so no worries.
I do recommend using an acetic acid stop bath between developer and bleach. Cleaning vinegar (the type you find in the supermarket) diluted 1+5 or so works very well. Don't get the kind that has nice smelling perfume added to it; the cheapest pure stuff is the right stuff.

 

[brbo]

I'm about to run out of my FujiHunt X-Press C-4 developer, but still have bleach and fixer, so I'm thinking I should get FujiHunt Environeg developer replenisher with appropriate starter. Starter comes packed in 6x1L which means that I'll use it up sometime in my next life (as I understand 1L of working solution needs 15ml of starter).

Is there somebody in EU that's in the same situation and would need a starter? Or even better, someone that has excess starter and would like to sell me a bottle?

 

[Tom Kershaw]

Starter comes packed in 6x1L which means that I'll use it up sometime in my next life (as I understand 1L of working solution needs 15ml of starter).

I've used the Kodak branded starter I had in-stock with the Fujihunt C-41 developer. May be possible to obtain a single 1l for starter from Bellini or Champion?

 

[koraks]

Is there somebody in EU that's in the same situation and would need a starter?

https://fotofilmfabriek.nl/product/fujifilm-fuji-hunt-enviroprint-universal-developer-starter/

Page is in Dutch, but he'll ship within EU if you ask him.

 

[brbo]

https://fotofilmfabriek.nl/product/fujifilm-fuji-hunt-enviroprint-universal-developer-starter/

Page is in Dutch, but he'll ship within EU if you ask him.

Thanks, I've already written to him and he's out of starter and Fuji is also out of stock. At this time my best bet is to find a dealer that has starter in stock and just buy the whole kit. Your guy would be perfect since he's willing to split the kits, alas...

 

[koraks]

Your guy would be perfect since he's willing to split the kits, alas...

Well, in fact, Fuji Netherlands are OK with selling individual bottles, even though the 6x1L pack is indeed the common list item. So many retailers should be able to sell you a single bottle, I'd say.
I might have some left but I'd have to dig it up...

 

[brbo]

That is good to know, thanks @koraks!

 

[Robert Ley]

I used to develop C-41 with my Jobo CPA-2 and used Fuji chemistry. I just looked and I have about 2/3 of a one liter bottle of Negacolor Developer Starter. I can ship it to any member that might be able to use it. I would assume that the bottle is still good, but others might chime in if they think it might not be still good.

 

[koraks]

I would assume that the bottle is still good

It's essentially a solution of potassium or sodium bromide. It doesn't go off very easily, not even after years.

 

[Robert Ley]

I did some more digging and came up with another partial bottle of starter, a bottle (1 lt) of developer replenisher part A and a unopened bottle of part B and 10 small bottles of c-41 stabilizer (had to buy a dozen bottles at one time) If anyone can use them shoot me a PM.

 

[lamerko]

I also use EnviroNeg chemistry but am struggling with the stabilizer. Can you suggest any solution? I see there's an EnviroPrint one, but I'm guessing it's only for the RA-4 process…

 

[koraks]

I see there's an EnviroPrint one, but I'm guessing it's only for the RA-4 process…

Yes, and that's not really something you'd need in a home darkroom.

An alternative to the 'official' final rinse for a C41 would be a combination of:
1 A dye coupler stabilizer (but this is optional/unnecessary for modern films).
2 A surfactant to reduce the risk of drying spots.
3 An antifungal/antibacterial compound to prevent biological damage to the film later on.

There are many ways to skin these three cats. A simple solution that will work well in a low-volume environment (e.g. home darkroom) is to use demineralized water, add some photoflo (according to the mfgr's instructions) and a few drops of formalin solution. The demi water + photoflo address #2, while the formalin addresses #1 and #3. If you can find something that will address #3 only (and isn't nastier than formalin and doesn't leave residue on the film), you'd be good for modern (post ca. 2000) films, too.