Want to Buy Fuji GX680 III Kit

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Christopherjs

Christopherjs

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Hi Christopherjs

The 680 is a really amazing camera. I have two of the first model. I made a simple battery adapter on my 3D printer that allows me to use cheap and easy to find (on Amazon) rechargeable batteries. My point here is - if you can find a Model III at a good price, go for it! If you can't I wouldn't worry too much about getting a model I or a II. you might save some $$$$ you can spend on film. For me and my needs the I works fine. Your mileage may differ.

Best,

Paul

hi paul. are you saying you're willing to sell one of your model I's? or just letting me know that if i get one, the battery issue can be resolved?
 

pdccamerqs

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HI Chris,

I was posting to let you know the model I and II's are solid machines, and are often overlooked, and yes the battery is really not a big issue. Sorry, if I confused the issue, I am not interested in selling right now. However if you land a nice model I or II, I would be happy to walk you through a variety of battery solutions.

All the best,

Paul
 

pdccamerqs

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Here are my two model I's modified to use standard video camera batteries.

IMG_5806.JPG
 
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Christopherjs

Christopherjs

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Here are my two model I's modified to use standard video camera batteries.

View attachment 410936

thanks for clarifying, for the pics, and for the note of encouragement toward the earlier models. if i get impatient in my search, i might go for one of those. they are a bit of cost savings. i even saw someone with a rechargeable battery set up that seemed nice.
 

Sharktooth

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Just a note that the backs for the model I and II have a lithium battery that is soldered in. These batteries were not intended to be user replaceable, and most of them will have run out of juice long ago. Those backs will also work on a model III, so don't assume that a model III body will come with a model III back. The model III backs have a compartment for easy installation of standard lithium batteries. Unfortunately, the lithium batteries that are used in the model III backs are different from the ones in the model III body, so you need to keep two types of batteries on hand.

If you have a model I or II back with the soldered in battery, you can disassemble the back to install a replacement. The replacement is a 1/2 AA lithium battery. If I remember correctly it's either 3V or 3.6V. It's a pain in the butt to swap it out, but at least it's doable if you have some technical ability. These backs are often very cheap, since the batteries are usually dead. You can probably still use the back if the internal battery is dead, since it will draw power from the camera body to advance the film. The downside is that if you remove the back from the camera there is no power to store the frame count, so the camera won't know what frame you're on the next time you install the back.

Familiarize yourself with the appearance of the model III back, and how it differs from the model I/II back. Lots of sellers don't know the difference, and may throw the older model back on a model III camera. The model III backs always go for a lot more money, due to the easily replaceable battery, and will work on all versions of the camera body.
 

uranylcation

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Just a note that the backs for the model I and II have a lithium battery that is soldered in. These batteries were not intended to be user replaceable, and most of them will have run out of juice long ago. Those backs will also work on a model III, so don't assume that a model III body will come with a model III back. The model III backs have a compartment for easy installation of standard lithium batteries. Unfortunately, the lithium batteries that are used in the model III backs are different from the ones in the model III body, so you need to keep two types of batteries on hand.

If you have a model I or II back with the soldered in battery, you can disassemble the back to install a replacement. The replacement is a 1/2 AA lithium battery. If I remember correctly it's either 3V or 3.6V. It's a pain in the butt to swap it out, but at least it's doable if you have some technical ability. These backs are often very cheap, since the batteries are usually dead. You can probably still use the back if the internal battery is dead, since it will draw power from the camera body to advance the film. The downside is that if you remove the back from the camera there is no power to store the frame count, so the camera won't know what frame you're on the next time you install the back.

Familiarize yourself with the appearance of the model III back, and how it differs from the model I/II back. Lots of sellers don't know the difference, and may throw the older model back on a model III camera. The model III backs always go for a lot more money, due to the easily replaceable battery, and will work on all versions of the camera body.

Took me less than 30 min to replace and solder a new battery into the back, including watching YouTube tutorial and finding very improper tools to help unscrew the bolt. Another benefit of the new back is you can put 645, 66 or 67 mask into them and it automatically adjusts frame spacing so you get proper number of frames per roll for the format. I don’t know if the multi format function would work on older body though. The original masks are not cheap but 3D printing files are available.
 
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