I would try the HC-110, dilution B. As far as time goes.... it's a bit of a gamble. 7 or 8 minutes? Maybe even 9? It'll need more time than Verichrome pan. You might want to try a snip test before developing the whole roll.I have found an exposed Kodak Verichrome (not Verichrome Pan) in an old medium format folding camera that my local darkroom was about to dispose of.
I would like to attempt to develop it. Of course I have no idea of the storage conditions so just hoping for the best.
I have Rodinal and HC110. Any suggestion is welcome.
That's been my experience as well. Expired film typically has low contrast already and high fog. Extended developing increases fog and stand developing lowers contrast. A lose-lose proposition. John (jnantz) is right: a strong, active developer works better in this application.Greg told me that stand developments don't really work...
I don't know if you use Paterson tanks or not, but there's a way to arrange Paterson reels in a two-reel tank that's a little goofy, but it will enable the developing of 116 and 616 film. I recently tried it with a roll of 616 and it worked.....as a side note I actually have a 116 1946 expired verichrome, but no camera to use it or tank to develop- but I'd like to....
I tried an hc110 stand development with some unknown west german film simply called "Supre tone roll film" that no one could identify. haven't had the film scanned yet, but the results were OK.That's been my experience as well. Expired film typically has low contrast already and high fog. Extended developing increases fog and stand developing lowers contrast. A lose-lose proposition. John (jnantz) is right: a strong, active developer works better in this application.
I don't know if you use Paterson tanks or not, but there's a way to arrange Paterson reels in a two-reel tank that's a little goofy, but it will enable the developing of 116 and 616 film. I recently tried it with a roll of 616 and it worked.
This video shows how to arrange the reels:
I actually ordered a pre exposed 116 verichrome (not pan) to try and develop for this thread. Was going to try 8 minutes dil. b, but I think I'll try your ten.I have finally managed to attempt developing this old film. There are good news and bad news.
The good news is that it worked: there are indeed usable photos from what appears to be 1940 or thereabout. I was hoping something would show, but I was also skeptical about it so it was really a great surprise!
The bad news is that there are only two exposures (although the roll was fully wound when I've found the camera). I am not sure if indeed it was not exposed, or I somehow ruined it.
The film (or better the two shots) is now drying, maybe I'll be able to share these two negatives.
I can't hide that I genuinely felt a chill down my spine when the film came out after washing and I could recognize a man and a woman in what looked like a snapshot from a vacation. The image looks a bit soft, even for "older" cameras. But there is surprisingly very little fog and the image is clearly visible. The second photo is less clear, I can see a field with a black car and sheep.
The rest of the film does not seem to have anything of value, it's like it's not been exposed at all. I may have made some mistake during loading or handling the film in red safelight (more on this later) but I would have expected to see at least something. Instead, I can only see some very faint bars of alternating densities.
Thank you Pentode for sharing the video with the trick to load the film on "one Paterson reel and a half", that's what I have done. I tried initially using my changing bag, but it was impossible to get the film on the reels that were not locked in position; I then moved to the darkroom, where I risked using the red-light. Even then, it was not easy at all and it took me a few attempts until I was able to finally load the whole of the film onto the spiral (I decided to load the end of the film first). Unfortunately, I had not considered the increased vertical height of this contraption (2 half reels on one side and one on the other), and when I closed the lid of the tank I pressed down a bit too much and ended up squashing the top reel downwards, which has caused creases on the film.
I had briefly considered tank development under safelight, but this would have been a new technique for me so I finally went for spiral and tank. I regret my decision a bit now that I have ended up making creases the films in many places.
I developed with HC-110 dil B for 10 minutes at 20 deg (averaging a few things I have found online), followed by water bath (I needed two to get clear water, it was slightly pinkish) and fixed for 4 minutes.
It was such a thrill, I wish I had another one to try once more.
I actually ordered a pre exposed 116 verichrome (not pan) to try and develop for this thread. Was going to try 8 minutes dil. b, but I think I'll try your ten..
Is there really a market for very old exposed films? This is so fascinating!
Let me know how it works for you.
update- not tonight. until I can find a way to load this outside my darkbag, the film keeps jamming on the reel.
what's frustrating is I almost had it twice.
There's four kind of faint but seriously fogged frames, all at the beginning of the roll. my guess is the film may have been forgotten and eventually just wound through the camera.Are the exposed frames at one of the ends of the film? That is what happened with mine.
I wonder if the ones just happened the most internal one whenthe roll had been finished and thus more "protected", if that makes any sense.
I can't hide that I genuinely felt a chill down my spine when the film came out after washing and I could recognize a man and a woman in what looked like a snapshot from a vacation. The image looks a bit soft, even for "older" cameras. But there is surprisingly very little fog and the image is clearly visible. The second photo is less clear, I can see a field with a black car and sheep.
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