I wonder in which camera it does perform well, I had the scratches with a Mamiya M645, Mamiya C330 and my Fujica GW690. In the RB67 the film travels the same path as in the M645 so I guess I don't need to try that. I recently got a Rolleiflex, maybe it works beter in that camera.
Foma offered a 800 speed Tgain for a bit, as I recall Kodak was not happy when they called it T800. I think it was sold by Ultrafine as T grain 400, I quite liked it. The 200 is ok, as noted by others it does not push that well, in my testing it tested at 200.
I bought a bulk roll a few months back, my first. Just as nice as the 120 version, but I've only shot probably 45 exposures of it so far. I just don't shoot much35mm anymore. I didn't encounter any problems with the 35mm stock, but like I said, I haven't really tested it much.
FWIW, I use Foma 100 and 200 in 120 purely for testing out cameras, and all of the last three rolls of 200 have had the dreaded purple spot issue.
The recent batches I am using work fine in my Fuji GW690III, Fuji GA645, and my Rolleicord Va (which I purchased in an almost unused state). With my other TLRs (more beat-up samples) I still get some of these parallel hairline scratches.
Again, mechanical and chemical stress on the emulsion seem to exacerbate any issues.
Replace stop bath with water, don't touch the emulsion when wet, no ham-fisted loading on the reels, no high energy agitation during development/fixing.
I've only used Kodak and some Fuji and Ilford b&w film so far.
I have some questions about Fompan 200.
-Is the 35mm on triacetate or polyester base?
-How is the quality control?
-Does the bulk film have frame numbers and edge markings?
-Is it true that it uses a grain type that's in between tabular and T-grain, or am I thinking of some other product?
-How does it compare to Plus-X and Tri-X in terms of contrast, tones, sharpness, etc.? Seems similar from photos and descriptions online, but I also read something about it being less sharp, possibly.
5) less sharp for sure, some halos around white objects due to weak anti halation layer (this is peculiar with all Foma films).
I need to develop a roll of Fomapan 200 (135 format, exposed @125) and I'm out of my go-to developer (Xtol). What do people with more experience with this film think would be the next best developer (considering that those few I developed in Xtol 1:1 worked nicely for me)?
Currently I have:
- T-Max Dev
- Rodinal
- HC-110
- D96
Any chance you can mix up some D23? Foma 200 just looks great in it IMO.
I'm sure HC110 will be great too but I have never tried it with Foma 200. I'm having some surprisingly good negatives from the most basic of combos: Kentmere 100 in 35mm e.i. 80 (using my SLR's own meter and centre-weighted) and Fotoimpex HC110 1+31 5 minutes, one inversion per minute. Pretty high contrast light.
I know this is not the most appropriate thread to ask, but @albireo , since I’ve seen you in numerous threads talking about Fomapan films developed in D 23, I’d like to ask if you could give me some development times for all three panchromatic Foma films, i.e. 100/200/400, both in stock D23 and 1+1 if you can (I don’t trust massive Dev that much because you can never know which gamma the developer tried to achieve)
I’m also not sure whether to use D23 one-shot or reuse it.
Thanks
Thanks koraks! pics look nice!
however, I just mixed D23, so I have to go with that. And first I'll give Foma400 a shot. A first since a few years.
Definition of dirt? Whitish spots, dark spots, lint? I had that with some foam film years ago and started using a pre-rinse and filtered my reused fixer. I honestly think it was from my reused fixer, but never proved it.Today, I developed Foma 400@250 in D23 1+1 for 11mins 24°C, rotary, and I really like the results. The negatives are a touch underexposed, so next time I’ll use EI 200, but otherwise, it’s a distinct look I didn’t get with XTOL or a pyro developer.
So, thanks to those recommending D23.
One thing, though: I seem to get more dirt on the negatives in comparison to other films. Just bad luck today or is there a special routine for Foma films when using a wetting agent and drying cabinet?
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