Foma Variant III FB paper

[chuckroast]

Selenium toner nearly always trends brown unless only briefly used and highly diluted. The only paper I can recall where is simply deepened the DMax without noticeably warming it was Ilford Galerie Graded.

I normally use it 1:40 with Variant 111 and then only for 3-5mins. This does reinforce the DMax somewhat, but, as you say, it can trend toward warming. In this case I accidentally made it at 1:20 and got a LOT of that warming effect.

 

[Philippe-Georges]

I normally use it 1:40 with Variant 111 and then only for 3-5mins. This does reinforce the DMax somewhat, but, as you say, it can trend toward warming. In this case I accidentally made it at 1:20 and got a LOT of that warming effect.

This I don't understand.
I use ADOX SELENTONER 1+9 at 20/22°C for 3 min and don't see any warm/brown colour changes, on the contrary, the DMax is getting very good and the image colour is turning neutral-to-coldish.
Before ADOX I used K.R.S.T the same way, with the same results.

And to test it, I left it for 9 min in that dilution and besides some very slight DMax upgrade, nothing happend.

This is done on FOMABROM FB 111.

 

[DREW WILEY]

If I want a bit of warm I typically use a home brew equivalent of Kodak sulfide Brown Toner instead. I might use supplemental selenium in relation to other toners for certain papers and images, but it's typically 1:20 for only 15 seconds or so. I let gold chloride toner do the heavy lifting instead to achieve more DMax, with its actual cooling effect to the print. Than any supplemental toners add their own bit of spice, with the potential for split toning too if that is what I want.

It's been a long time since I've used Foma papers, and back then it was a warm version. So I have some catching up to do.

 

[chuckroast]

This I don't understand.
I use ADOX SELENTONER 1+9 at 20/22°C for 3 min and don't see any warm/brown colour changes, on the contrary, the DMax is getting very good and the image colour is turning neutral-to-coldish.
Before ADOX I used K.R.S.T the same way, with the same results.

And to test it, I left it for 9 min in that dilution and besides some very slight DMax upgrade, nothing happend.

This is done on FOMABROM FB 111.

This depends a lot how much of the print is low key/zones below V. The effect isn't really noticed in the highlight zones.

 

[chuckroast]

Here is a scan of the final print on Variant 111. I rather like the effect

https://www.tundraware.com/Photography/Gallery/Silver/media/large/20240125-1-12-Treeceding.jpg

Leica M2
Summicron 35mm f/2 ASPH
Fomapan 200 exposed at EI 200
Pyrocat-HD 1.5:1:250 semistand for an hour

 

[removedacct3]

This I don't understand.
I use ADOX SELENTONER 1+9 at 20/22°C for 3 min and don't see any warm/brown colour changes, on the contrary, the DMax is getting very good and the image colour is turning neutral-to-coldish.
Before ADOX I used K.R.S.T the same way, with the same results.

And to test it, I left it for 9 min in that dilution and besides some very slight DMax upgrade, nothing happend.

This is done on FOMABROM FB 111.

Philippe, did you use Fomabrom 111 or Fomabrom Variant 111? Just asking, because I get that warming effect as well when using Fomabrom Variant 111.

 

[Philippe-Georges]

Philippe, did you use Fomabrom 111 or Fomabrom Variant 111? Just asking, because I get that warming effect as well when using Fomabrom Variant 111.

It is the Variable Contrast (Baryta) variant I use...

Perhaps this might be an indication: the developer I process this paper in is home brewed E-72 {2 à 3 min at 20 à 22°C (thermostat set at 21°C}) which is a human friendly variant of the famous DEKTOL.
I have the (very personal-) impression that the type of developer in which the paper, regardless the kind/brand, is processed, could determine whenever the Selenium treatment will or will not change the image colour and D-max.
For a short while I developed the FOMABROM FB in Fomatol P (due to Phenidone not being in stock) and the image colour, after my usual Selenium toning, wasn't that "neutral-to-coldish" and the D-max was a little less.

Also, when on the rare occasions I develop the paper for twice or three times the usual time as I really wanted very deep blacks, then the paper doesn't change colour nor the D-max 'deepens' when Selenium toned.

PS: I looked it up and the real way to write 'maximum of optical density' is 'D-max', no capital 'm' and a hyphen...