FOMA B&W materials

[Keith Tapscott.]

I have recently become aware of a company called FOMA from the Czech Republic. I understand that they produce b&w film and paper (amongst other products).
Does anyone have experience with this brand? If so, how does it compare with Ilford or other brands available in North America?
Your reply will be greatly appreciated.

They`re probably more comparable with the films of the 1960`s such as Ilford FP3 and HP4 although perfectly serviceable. The 200T film seems to be popular with some.
I`ve used Paterson Acupan 200 which is said to have been made by Foma and is/was their 200T film.

 

[Mark Antony]

They`re probably more comparable with the films of the 1960`s such as Ilford FP3 and HP4 although perfectly serviceable. .

Keith i think you are being a little unkind there. The Foma emulsions I've used are much better than that, and unlike Adox they certainly aren't old 1960's emulsions. In fact i've seen somewhere that the 200 has some Fuji across tech all in all I rate them as highly as Ilford and .
http://www.photo-utopia.blogspot.com/

 

[Harrigan]

I use the fomatone mg variable contrast for my warm tone prints and I really like the paper. It has a brown green to brown olive color which can be toned down (the green) by using GAF 135 and following that with selenium @ 68-70 degrees 75cc/L for a minute or less. The prints will be very nice warm color that I really like. Longer selenium produces a strong red color that I don’t care for. Here is an example.

 

[Phillip P. Dimor]

I've used the foma 100 and 400 films. The Foma 100 in 4x5 sheets is awesome, I use D76 1:1 and it's great stuff.

For 120 I use both 100 and 400 but prefer the 100. Haven't tried it in 35mm and haven't tried to paper either.
The low prices scare me. Look at Agfa and Forte.

 

[Rich Ullsmith]

Can't tell you about the film. The MG Classic paper is great, I'm in the same boat as DrPablo, it looks so good in lith, bleaches and tones great, I haven't even tried it straight up. May I extrapolate from limited experience: any paper that liths well also prints well.

 

[ronlamarsh]

Foma

I use Arista Edu ultra(foma) in both my 4x5 and 5x7 and it works great! I have not had any quality issues like those experienced with the forte films. I use either rodinal or d-23 1:1. Both work great and have excellent flexibility and at the price its unbeatable. In 6x6cm in d-23 1:1 the sharpness is astounding(I use a water stop bath and just let is soak for about 2min).
The paper is extremely good also, very easy to work with, great tonality and great price. Again no quality issues yet.
I have not used Oriental,Agfa, Ilford papers for a long time now due to bugetary issues so I cannot say which would be best but that is an individual taste issue as far as I am concerned.

 

[Rolleijoe]

I've been using Foma off/on since '94, they've been around since the 1920s. Now that Agfa films are gone, they are the closest thing tonal-wise to APX.

They respond especially well to Rodinal, and their RC papers are nice, but for the recent past use Fotokemika fiber paper (fabulous stuff), and their Efke 25 & Efke 100 films.

Quite addicting.

 

[laverdure]

My box of 8x10 fomabrom was cut a little long- or rather half of it was, so it was a little squished up in the box. Doesn't sound like anyone else has had that problem, though. Their WT matte is gorgeous, with a cream base and just the right bit of sheen. Gives a great sense of depth. Very slow. The chamois is the most toothsome paper I've ever seen, though I haven't seen much in this line, and so ate up far too much detail to be acceptable for the kind of small printing I usually do. Their 35mm film lies perfectly flat- or at least the 200 and 400 do, and I like the stuff fine.

 

[Uncle Bill]

I can't speak for the paper but the Foma 100 and 200T is nice film to work with especially developed in Rodinal 1+50.

 

[Alex Bishop-Thorpe]

I'd been kept away by the Quality Control issues that seemed so common...but at $33 for 100 sheets of 200, Arista.EDU prices, I'll get a stack to learn 4x5 photography with later this year. And I had good results with Foma 400 in 120.

 

[fschifano]

Their 35mm film lies perfectly flat- or at least the 200 and 400 do, and I like the stuff fine.

Rest assured that the 100 speed stuff lies just as flat. I've shot a few more rolls of the stuff over the weekend and I think I'm really onto something good with this one.

 

[Peter Schrager]

fomabrom WT matte

can't find this paper on the freestyle site. where is it?? is this a graded or VC paper??
thanks, Peter

 

[kraker]

Their 35mm film lies perfectly flat- or at least the 200 and 400 do, and I like the stuff fine.

Here's my EUR 0,02:

I've used Fomapan 200 in 120 format. I like the tonality, I like the (lack of) grain, I like the price. But now that you bring up the flatness issue... The Fomapan 200 in medium format curls like h*ll. Maybe it's the way I process it, but then again: I process it in the same way as other films, and they do lie flat. (The film really feels thinner than your average Ilford film, maybe that has something to do with it.)

 

[Aurelien]

I have learnt that lots of PET base coated films are curly. If you want to avoid this issue, you may dry it by heating the film @ 60-70°C for 20 minutes. And then, flat...

 

[jlehmus]

I'm thinking about moving to graded papers and bought some Fomaspeed to begin with.

 

[david b]

Can anyone recommend a start time for Arista.edu Ultra 200 (4x5) in rodinal 1:50?

 

[Fotohuis]

Dead Link Removed

and this is 35mm!

Dead Link Removed

Fomapan T200 E.I. 125-160 Rodinal 1+50 around 9:00 Min. at 20 degrees C.

Best regards,

Robert

 

[laverdure]

"fomabrom WT matte
can't find this paper on the freestyle site. where is it?? is this a graded or VC paper??"

It's VC. Freestyle has it, or they did a few months ago.

 

[Kathab]

Fomapan 200 film and D-23 Developer

Can anyone please supply me with the development time for the above using stock solution, rating the film at advised 200ASA. There seems to be little pertinent info. on the Massive development charts.
Thanks to anyone who may be able to help.

Regards Kathab

 

[Rolleijoe]

Can anyone recommend a start time for Arista.edu Ultra 200 (4x5) in rodinal 1:50?

10min @ 20gradC seems to be alright, (depending on the contrast of the scene shot vs the contrast you want). But this will get you in the ballpark. Just did some of the same testing out an Ektar lens (lens will be going in for CLA) that's for sure!

 

[Olivier]

I have learnt that lots of PET base coated films are curly. If you want to avoid this issue, you may dry it by heating the film @ 60-70°C for 20 minutes. And then, flat...

Oups ! You are sur that heating the film so longer doesn't damage it ?

 

[Chazzy]

How is the Foma 400 speed film? I need a walking-around film for the folder that has numbers I can actually read, and it doesn't appear that Ilford is interested in fixing the problem.

 

[srs5694]

How is the Foma 400 speed film? I need a walking-around film for the folder that has numbers I can actually read, and it doesn't appear that Ilford is interested in fixing the problem.

I don't mean to seem glib, but you'll just have to try it yourself. Lots of people like Fomapan 400, including me, but others don't. The same can be said for just about any other film. At least on APUG, queries like yours tend to bring forth those who like a given product, so you get lots of "it's the best thing since sliced bread" responses.

That said, Fomapan 400 is is traditional emulsion (it's not a T-grain film) with a rather old-fashioned look to it. Most people say it's a bit grainier than other ISO 400 films, but I personally don't see much difference. In 35mm, it's got poor anti-halation characteristics, but I've heard this isn't true of the film in other formats.

 

[Aurelien]

Oups ! You are sur that heating the film so longer doesn't damage it ?

I didn't try yet. But in fact it may not affect the film, since it's coated on PET base. It seem the only way to dry flat.

 

[poutnik]

How is the Foma 400 speed film? I need a walking-around film for the folder that has numbers I can actually read, and it doesn't appear that Ilford is interested in fixing the problem.

As per srs5694, you will have to test yourself.

As a hint, my best results so far have been with this film shot at EI 250 or EI 320, developed in R09 1:40 (don't remember the time and don't have the notes at hand). I have also shot this also at EI 1600 (and developed accordingly longer), but will not do that again