They usually come with Novar-Anastigmat lenses, don't they? Are they adequate?I liked small Nettar 515 the most. For use and results.
I'm guessing that it's something bad to service? Then how does one use, let's say, Portra 400 on sunny day? (not to mention attaining any kind of shallow DOF in the pricess)High speed in those shutters is not something pleasing to engage. Second spring is in use.
They usually come with Novar-Anastigmat lenses, don't they? Are they adequate?
... Then how does one use, let's say, Portra 400 on sunny day? ...
Those look amazing! And it's got a good shutter which goes up to 1/500 if I recall correctly. But still, have to ask: did you ever need to use a Neutral Density filter and if so, then what did you do?They are - this is with the Novar 3.5/75mm on a Super Ikonta III - 531/16 - stopped down to f/11 I guess
This was with Portra 400 on a bright day
I guess fast speeds are problematic on most leaf shutters. I have Olympus 35RC and even its shutter doesn't give 1/500, but something around 1/300-ish instead. Copal-SV on the other hand, which I have on Yashica 124, performs adequately on all speeds above 1/30. HOWEVER 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15 all fire at 1/30 as well.I tried a couple of Perkeo II's, but had to send 'em back because of the fiddly and, often, unreliable shutter lockout mechanism. I know others have never had an issue here...I guess I was just unlucky. Anyway, wound up with an Agfa Isolette III, a Zeiss Super Ikonta III, and a Zeiss Mess Ikonta (6x9). I finally sold off the Agfa--great camera, though--because I didn't need two 6x6 folders and preferred the coupled rangefinder of the Zeiss Super Ikonta. I've measured the shutter speeds on both of my Zeiss folders, and they're pretty much dead on, with the fastest speeds being just a touch slow. I don't use the higher shutter speeds so it's never been an issue for me. In general, though, I think you'll find that these older shutters don't do the high speeds so well. For example, my 190mm Kodak Wide Field Ektar in Ilex shutter that I use for 8x10 is dead on up to 1/100 sec, at which point the speeds get slower as you go up. The fastest speed is about 1.5 stops slow; and this was after a CLA by Carol of Flutot's Camera Repair.
So it is then pointless to pay more for higher end shutters, unless I want a better lens?At best your only going to get one stop past 1/250. The easiest solution may be to shoot a faster film. When I was looking, I found that a lot of folders were available with multiple shutters. Usually, the faster shutters were paired with the better lenses.
My old Voigtlander Bessa I has a 1/400 shutter. I suspect the later Bessas has at least a 1/400.
... And it's got a good shutter which goes up to 1/500 if I recall correctly. But still, have to ask: did you ever need to use a Neutral Density filter and if so, then what did you do? ...
Interesting. I thought relatively modern cameras would be more consistent. So much for Fuji... Seiko on my Bronica was as precise as my late grandmother's wrist watch, which was also Seiko. But electronically governed shutters should be precise after all.Yes, shutter speed 1/500 - same ''problem'' with my FUJI GW670iii; FUJI GA645, Rolleiflex 3.5F ... I have and use ND filters with the Rolli and my FUJI's but not for/with the Super Ikonta (though I never missed one).
In Germany f/11 and 1/500 is great for sunny weather -
If you go close enough you can get a nice bokeh even with a stopped-down lens. I rarely shoot the Super Ikonta (wide) open - this is not what the Novar was build for I guess.
But I agree, slow shutters are often paired with 3 element glass, whereas faster ones often have 4 element lenses. Or even better.I’m just saying that is what I saw when I looked—three element lenses with 1/125 shutters, 4+ element lenses with 1/400 shutters. I’m sure there are plenty of exceptions to this, Voightlander was one, but it was common. And not all Bessas are expensive. I paid USD$100 for mine with a Voigtar and a Compur-Rapid 1/400 shutter.
These photos look ancient! Probably from the days when Perkeo was still modern eh? But yes, photos look outstanding. Perhaps it was stopped down to 11 or something.The Perkeo I my father-in-law used was 1/300 with the Vaskar triplet (a more'' economic'' version compared to the Perkeo II with 1/500 and the Color Sopar.
Nevertheless - in the right hands the Perkeo I was a great tool. Two photograps my father in-law took a few decades ago :
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These photos look ancient! Probably from the days when Perkeo was still modern eh? But yes, photos look outstanding. Perhaps it was stopped down to 11 or something.
They usually come with Novar-Anastigmat lenses, don't they? Are they adequate?
I'm guessing that it's something bad to service? Then how does one use, let's say, Portra 400 on sunny day? (not to mention attaining any kind of shallow DOF in the pricess)
Hello all
...
The question is: am I missing some decent models with fast shutters, or it's common for folders to have slow speeds simply because there were no fast films and fast lenses available? I even saw one Balda camera with f/2.9 lens which had 1/200 or 1/250 max. speed.
... yellow filter (for B&W), and hood is a nice accessory to have.
I have serviced several leaf shutters and tested them. The average leaf shutter goes from full close to full open in .0003 seconds. The timing delay holds the shutter in full open for the specified time then the main spring forces the blades fully closed. During the time from full closed to full open or from full open to full closed the shutter leafs form a variable aperture that will stop down to 2 stops or more below taking aperture and have very little effect on total exposure.Folders (or any cameras) in the 50ies simply were not buildt for film as fast as iso 400, I think? The fastest leaf shutter that I have from the 50ies is a Prestor on a Werra. That's 1/750. And that is a 35mm camera. Another thing with leaf shutters is that they deliver different speeds for i.e. f:2.8 and f:22! The reason is that the leafs takes time from closed to fully open and from fully open back to closed. This makes perfect (slide) exposure difficult with top speeds without knowing your shutters behaviour very well.
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