Fogging: Fixer or Insufficient Agitation?

[rubyfalls]

So, here is a poor iPad shot of the negatives in question:

D3200 120, DD-X for 9:24 (18C). I thought it was a problem with the fixer. But then I noticed it was the center only of the frames, and only on the interior frames (ie, the frames on the outside of the reel were fine).

Questions:

Poor agitation? It is quite chilly in my darkroom, if that makes a difference. Otherwise I always follow the same agitation scheme - 4 inversions for 10 seconds every minute. Stainless reels and tanks.

Poor fixer? The next roll was just fine - done right after, same developer, fresh fixer, but tri-x.

In this case, I didn't feel inclined to re-fix. But in the future, what is the best way to do so? I was thinking about sliding cut negatives in a sheet developer tank or in a print developer tray rather than re-reeling.

Thanks, y'all....


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[rubyfalls]

I'll post a scanned shot when they finish if that might help.


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[bdial]

It looks like it could be under fixed. Do the negatives have sort of hazy-milky appearance?

T-grain films need more fix time than "conventional" films like Tri-X. Temperature and agitation in the fix could be factors as well. The fix may have warmed somewhat for the second roll too.
Try re-fixing them, no need to do it in a tank, a print tray will do, if the roll is cut already.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Increased opacity near the center of the film is a tip-off that the film has not been fixed long enough.

 

[randyB]

Looking at your photo it seems like the film base+fog is quite high. I've seen this with noticeably out of date film, so my question is: How old is your film? I have seen age fogged film that that looked like yours, I've also seen age fogged film was good on the edges and fogged in the center. I would suggest refixing the film in fresh fixer, don't skimp on the fix time, 10 minutes should clear any left over silver. By doing this you will eliminate the fixer as the possible problem and you can look elsewhere for the cause.

 

[Chris Lange]

Delta 3200 has a distinctly more "grey" base than other films, but the yellowish tinge towards the center indicates underfixing.

 

[Xmas]

refix immediately.
It is only the pain of refixing that will allow you to fix for long enough in future.
All T grain films need longer by 2 times.
Fixing is temperature sensitive do it by inspection and time.
Open tank after 3 mins inspect agitate inspect agitate when film is clear of milk fix for as long again
Fixing and washing both critical.
Use a wash aid to reduce time and water

 

[rubyfalls]

Thanks all. The film doesn't expire until march of 2014. I fixed with ilford rapid for 3:30. Usually that is fine, and the two other rolls of D3200 turned out just fine. Though admittedly my darkroom and chemicals were over 20C when I did those rolls. Any feelings on what fixer to use with D3200? How long with the ilford rapid? Can I use the same conversion (temp/time) that I use for developer?

FWIW, here is a scanned negative where you can see the flaws

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[Kawaiithulhu]

Ilford rapid fix says 2-5 minutes for regular films at the standard dilution. Going by the 2x time recommendation for T-grain emulsions that should have gotten 4-10 minutes with the cooler temp leaning towards the top end of that time range. Did I interpret that right?

I currently use TF-5 and it specifically documents times with an extra minute or two for T-grain films so it's not just Ilford rapid.

 

[Xmas]

the problem is not a stain with gross under fixing but the longer term potential damage...
fix by inspection allows for temp, exhaustion and tgrain
the other option is to use two baths which still needs inspection

a partly used
b new

replace a by b when a slows make up new bath b

washing is just as critical and also temperature dependent, a hypo clear reduces risk and over washing is low risk with today's hardened films

I use plain hypo, inspection and a hypo clear normally all tempered at 20C.

 

[photo buddy]

Try this on the next roll agitate constantly for the full five minute fixing period.
I can also tell you that you can remove fog with a very dilute ferricynide solultion [it is a very light yellow in color], cut the film into strips ,and agitate them one at a time in a tray, liquid temp is 68 degrees F pay particular attention to the printed edge when that is clear you are done. I can also tell you if the printing on the edges is not clearly black you have not developed your roll long enough, make sure your solution is 68 F regardless of room temp. use a hot water bath if necessary to keep the solution around 68F

 

[Xmas]

You cannot fix by time unless you control temperature and exhaustion and five mins is not long enough for tgrain and archival storage...