Fixing or not fixing?

[norm123]

Hi all

I didn't use toning of any kind very very often. So I lack experience with it.

I'm a bit confused about if I should re-fix when I tone selenium and bleach after. See link.https://www.flickr.com/photos/norm1thestorm/16210385250/

I like to selenium tone briefly, 45 seconds, in a very strong solution (1+3) to preserve and enhance black. Wash 10 minutes and then bleach the print (FB) until the color is fine for my taste.

1) Should I use HCA somehere in the process?

2) Should I re-fix the print after the bleach? or after HCA?

Any tips are welcomed

Regards

 

[MattKing]

If you use a re-halogenating bleach on a print that has not been selenium toned, you will have re-converted at least some of the silver back into light sensitive silver salts - similar to how they were when you first pulled the unexposed paper out of the envelope in the darkroom.

If you have partially selenium toned the print, you will have insulated part of the image from the effects of the bleach.

The percentage of re-converted salts present will vary with the:
1) strength of the bleach;
2) time that you bleached; and
3) the extent of the selenium toning - selenium toned silver doesn't respond the same way to the bleach, so if you have selenium toned to completion, there is nothing left to bleach.

So you need to figure out what to do with the light sensitive silver salts that are left in the paper after bleaching.

Assuming that your toning and bleaching steps were done in the light, the silver salts have been exposed to light.

If you want them to just go dark again, develop, stop and fix the paper again - it will end up similar to the result if you had never used the bleach.

If you want to remove those light sensitive silver salts, and its a good idea to do so, you need to re-fix and re-wash the print.

The reason to use HCA is to speed up the washing process, and to help ensure that the washing process is fully effective. You want to use HCA immediately before washing.

Personally, I prefer to bleach first, rinse briefly, then selenium tone, then wash completely. I don't use HCA, but that is because I use RC paper.

Hope this helps.

 

[norm123]

If you use a re-halogenating bleach on a print that has not been selenium toned, you will have re-converted at least some of the silver back into light sensitive silver salts - similar to how they were when you first pulled the unexposed paper out of the envelope in the darkroom.

If you have partially selenium toned the print, you will have insulated part of the image from the effects of the bleach.

The percentage of re-converted salts present will vary with the:
1) strength of the bleach;
2) time that you bleached; and
3) the extent of the selenium toning - selenium toned silver doesn't respond the same way to the bleach, so if you have selenium toned to completion, there is nothing left to bleach.

So you need to figure out what to do with the light sensitive silver salts that are left in the paper after bleaching.

Assuming that your toning and bleaching steps were done in the light, the silver salts have been exposed to light.

If you want them to just go dark again, develop, stop and fix the paper again - it will end up similar to the result if you had never used the bleach.

If you want to remove those light sensitive silver salts, and its a good idea to do so, you need to re-fix and re-wash the print.

The reason to use HCA is to speed up the washing process, and to help ensure that the washing process is fully effective. You want to use HCA immediately before washing.

Personally, I prefer to bleach first, rinse briefly, then selenium tone, then wash completely. I don't use HCA, but that is because I use RC paper.

Hope this helps.

Thank you for reply

Is a KBr-K Ferricyanide a re-halogenating bleach or not?


Regards

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Thank you for reply

Is a KBr-K Ferricyanide a re-halogenating bleach or not?


Regards

Yes it is. Refix prints bleached with this solution or you risk the same kind of stains that underfixing causes.

FYI, the bromide in the bleach combines with the silver to make silver bromide, a light-sensitive compound. Since you tone in the light, it has also been exposed. You can "develop it back" as mentioned above if you bleach a bit too far. However, you won't get the original look since you are working with a different silver compound than you started with.

Best,

Doremus

 

[M Carter]

I would highly recommend a copy of "way beyond monochrome" - it covers this, and about a million more subjects. It will up your game big time!

 

[barzune]

I would highly recommend a copy of "way beyond monochrome" - it covers this, and about a million more subjects. It will up your game big time!

You can't go wrong with WBM, but you may also want to go further in depth for toning with Tim Rudman's "Toning Book".

 

[norm123]

Thank you all of you.