First Time w/ Delta 100

[NB23]

Kodak sells two different fixers. There's a powdered, plain, slow fixer and a liquid rapid fixer. The powdered one would certainly require longer fixing times, whereas the liquid one would be just as fast as any other typical rapid fixer.

No, kodak’s is not a rapid fixer. Also, it has a hardener in it which requires A LOT more washing time.
The hardener in it also requires extended fixing times.

 

[Arklatexian]

That is the secondary reason I stopped using tabular grain. The primary reason is that I like traditional grains much better.

If Kodak or Ilford or anyone else says a MINIMUM of six minutes in fresh fixer, then I shall continue to fix for ten minutes like I have been doing since the 1940s with no bleaching, etc. Take heed of that word "Minimum". It is not the same as "Maximum".......Regards!

 

[Arklatexian]

That’s not been my experience. The fixer I’m using now was mixed up nearly a year ago and still works just fine. Kodak’s capacity values with it are extremely conservative. Yes it takes longer. I use that time to write my notes, clean stuff up, or prep for the next batch/roll, which is all stuff I’d be doing anyway,

I have mixed up some "plain fixer" (sodium thiosulfate and sodium sulfite, NO hardner). Because of no hardner (modern films do not need it), it washes out faster, or so I read. I shall still fix for ten minutes. I sure hope it lasts for a year. We shall see..Plan to use it on everyone's 100 speed film.....Regards!

 

[mshchem]

For getting purple out of TMY using 2 minutes with Kodak HCA really helps. I use Kodak Rapid Fix but Ilford Hypam or Rapid Fix works the same. I use fresh fixer and if I'm using the Jobo I go at least 5 minutes with the t grain films.
The KHCA really helps with the dye. And as others have noted it takes time . A change in concentration over a distance is called a concentration gradient, this takes time . Blasting huge amounts of water while washing film or paper is a waste of water .

Bottom line try Hypo clearing agent , and yes Acros is wonderful film, I have a lot of 120, but didn't put any sheets away.
MHO Best Regards Mike

 

[ericdan]

Longer fixing with fresh fixer removes most of the stain. Longer washing will not remove the rest. Longer sitting in still water without agitation however gets it out somehow.

 

[NB23]

Look at a Tmax/delta film leader: it is alwayswashed out compared to unexposed film to uv rays.

This shows us that UV rays clears the pink in a few minutes.

No need to wash like crazy. Place your printfile sheet outside and it’s done.

 

[Lachlan Young]

C-41 fix for 5-6 minutes & a normal Ilford wash, allowing a few minutes standing time before dumping the water after each agitation cycle will get the residual dyes out of current Ilford & Kodak films very efficiently. The thiocyanate makes a big difference I think. I'd avoid using C-41 fix on Foma films, but otherwise it's great stuff for getting almost all the dye out very quickly. Just don't be alarmed if the fixer goes the colour of the residual dyes.

 

[Sirius Glass]

If Kodak or Ilford or anyone else says a MINIMUM of six minutes in fresh fixer, then I shall continue to fix for ten minutes like I have been doing since the 1940s with no bleaching, etc. Take heed of that word "Minimum". It is not the same as "Maximum".......Regards!

+10

 

[ericdan]

Can you buy C41 fixer separately? I think the only thing I ever saw was developing kits that included everything.

 

[Lachlan Young]

Can you buy C41 fixer separately? I think the only thing I ever saw was developing kits that included everything.

Yes - but it's usually only in quantities to make 20L or more. Kodak, Tetenal, Fuji all supply it, usually as a boxed pack of 2 identical bottles in the 3-5L range. It lasts pretty well after opening & if it's too much for your own needs, you could split a pack with someone & get a bottle each.