First Time w/ Delta 100
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I had a love/hate relationship with Acros. But one thing I could say is that it cleared like glass.
Kodak sells two different fixers. There's a powdered, plain, slow fixer and a liquid rapid fixer. The powdered one would certainly require longer fixing times, whereas the liquid one would be just as fast as any other typical rapid fixer.
The best solution I've found is C-41 fixer - it's residual dye you're seeing, & either C-41 fix & a good wash or regular fix & the Ilford wash sequence with standing intervals after each agitation to enable the dye to diffuse out are both good approaches. The C-41 fix is so effective in getting the dye out that it usually comes out of the tank purple or whatever colour the dyes are. Great with Kodak films etc too, though I'd be wary about using it on Foma.
No need for pre-washes of any extent, or any of the more eccentric (& pointless) things people tend to suggest.
I like Delta 100 vastly better than Acros - it's one of my absolute favourite films. Main thing you should be looking at is getting your development time down to 4-5mins at 20c at 1+31 in HC-110 - though I'd strongly suggest 1+47 or more & an adjusted dev time for better consistency. Delta 100 & ID-11/D-76 is an excellent combination too & the grain is actually quite beautiful if you don't develop it in something stupid for grossly excessive periods.
OP
OP
I like using Dilution E for HC-110. What time would you recommend at 20C?
OP
OP
up the temp on the wash. That seems to help.
It’s standard Kodak professional fixer. It’s not a rapid fixer. The standard fix time is 5-10 minutes with most films and 2-4 minutes with paper. I’m not a fan of rapid fixers.
You should really be using rapid fixers with most films on the market today, especially the current generation controlled crystal growth ones like Delta, TMAX etc - their higher iodide content makes it questionable as to whether sodium thiosulfate fixers are really able to adequately fix them. Colour neg is even more demanding & ammonium thiocyanate is used alongside ammonium thiosulfate in current C-41 fixes.
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1+47 = Dilution E
The calculation is pretty much a case of +50% or thereabouts on top of Dilution B times - thus 4-5 mins at 'B' = 6-7.5 mins at 'E' - all at 20c. For what it's worth, Ilford suggest in the HC datasheet 6.5 mins at 1+47/'E' at 20c & a suggested EI of 50, though this depends greatly on how you meter etc.
Questionable eh? According to who? It doesn’t seem to be questionable to Kodak with their own films.
Grant Haist in 'Modern Photographic Processing', vol 1.
I’ve heard of him, but that’s about it. I’ll go look, though I imagine if I were doing any great sin, Kodak wouldn’t put TMAX fix times on the package of the fixer.
In any case, Kodafix powder fixer doesn't have any advantage over a rapid fixer. It's a slower, hardening fixer that also takes more time to wash.
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- Feb 9, 2010
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- 4x5 Format
I can say when I develop 4x5 TMY2, the pink stain comes out in my wash water, I wash about 20 minutes, passing the film back and forth between two 5x7 white enamel trays of fresh wash water at 68 to 72 degrees F.
It seems that the pink is gone by the fourth or fifth pass, it goes faster when the water is warmer. But it definitely washes out from Kodak film.
I hope you find the same but since the brands are different I know there might be no way to tell.
It seems that the pink is gone by the fourth or fifth pass, it goes faster when the water is warmer. But it definitely washes out from Kodak film.
I hope you find the same but since the brands are different I know there might be no way to tell.
OP
OP
Weird. I've never noticed pink when I developed TMAX400. It's been quite a long time since I used that film regularly but for many many years that was my go-to film for anything Acros could not handle so I did use quite a lot of it. Maybe developing in DD-X helped wash out any pink.
MattKing
Moderator
Whether or not the pink washes out quickly or slowly is probably most related to variations in the water used and the pH of the stop/fixer/washaid/wash sequence.
The tap water here is really soft and reliable and of near neutral pH, and I use an acidic stop bath and acidic rapid fixer and Kodak HCA so I've never had problems with T-Max films.
Washing is a diffusion process, so slowing it down and lengthening the time a bit is probably the most effective way of dealing with the "pink". I would consider, however, lengthening your time in the fixer to three times the clearing time.
The tap water here is really soft and reliable and of near neutral pH, and I use an acidic stop bath and acidic rapid fixer and Kodak HCA so I've never had problems with T-Max films.
Washing is a diffusion process, so slowing it down and lengthening the time a bit is probably the most effective way of dealing with the "pink". I would consider, however, lengthening your time in the fixer to three times the clearing time.
As you said, you wash your film by agitating and dumping the water. If you'd just let it stand there after agitating, it would release dyes in the wash water. An otherwise "clean" film can turn water pink if left for 15 minutes for example, but it also depends on the film itself. TMax films will do so.
Kodak powder fixer has the annoying property of losing its efficacy after two months.
I have found this to be true for the Kodak powder fixer. Hence the long fixing and washing times to get rid of the pink tint.
That’s not been my experience. The fixer I’m using now was mixed up nearly a year ago and still works just fine. Kodak’s capacity values with it are extremely conservative. Yes it takes longer. I use that time to write my notes, clean stuff up, or prep for the next batch/roll, which is all stuff I’d be doing anyway,
When I used Delta films, I used TF4 and TF3 for 4 minutes, followed by a 20 minute running tap water wash. Never any problems.
J
J
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It’s because I tray develop and turn on the lights after the fix step. So I see the film when it’s pink. And the white porcelain makes it more apparent.
Anyone who develops in tanks might do some washing before looking.
TF2 for me and no problems either. I starting using TF2 when I went to pyro developers, but it works great with all the films I've tried it with. I like making my own fixer. Is it cheaper than store bought? Not really, but I still like making my own anyway. JohnW
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Switch to an alkaline fixer like TF4. The residual dye of certain Ilford films is more stubborn than Kodak TMax films; but ten minutes final wash gets all the pink off Delta for me.
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