First time Leica owner: advice?

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FoidPoosening

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I've been shooting film for a few years (mostly on the Canon FD system, but some rangefinders in the past too), but I just recently caved and bought myself an M3.

In short, what are the finer points of advice you all think I should know? Anything is welcome, but some of my more specific questions I have include:
  • Advice on a lens? I don't have one yet, but know I want 50mm. Very torn between newer version f2, f1.4 pre-ASPH and f1.4 ASPH.
  • Any important advice on things I CAN'T do? I know all cameras have their quirks (for example on a Zenit I own, it's advised to change the shutter speed only AFTER the shutter is cocked). I'd rather not make any "dumb" (IE completely avoidable) mistakes and break this beautiful thing by accident.

Thanks all, really looking forward to using this one soon.
 

Huss

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Congrats!
Manual here:

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/leica/leica_m3/leica_m3.htm

#1 most important - do not leave the lens uncapped and pointing at the sun!!! It takes literally just a moment for a hole to burn through your shutter.
#2 - see #1
#3 do not keep your shutter cocked for days at a time. Pretty much like most cameras.

I use Leica, Zeiss and Voigtlander glass. All are excellent. Really depends on how much you want to spend and the look you are going for.
50 1.4 Asph is the tops. Zeiss Planar 50 is really really good too, but with better flare protection. CV 50 1.5 Asph almost as good as 50 1.4 Asph.

But I like to use the lenses from the era of the M3, and there the V1 collapsible Summicron is great, as is the 50 DR Cron.
You are spoiled for choice..
 
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FoidPoosening

FoidPoosening

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Congrats!
Manual here:

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/leica/leica_m3/leica_m3.htm

#1 most important - do not leave the lens uncapped and pointing at the sun!!! It takes literally just a moment for a hole to burn through your shutter.
#2 - see #1

#3 do not keep your shutter cocked for days at a time. Pretty much like most cameras.

I use Leica, Zeiss and Voigtlander glass. All are excellent. Really depends on how much you want to spend and the look you are going for.
50 1.4 Asph is the tops. Zeiss Planar 50 is really really good too, but with better flare protection. CV 50 1.5 Asph almost as good as 50 1.4 Asph.

But I like to use the lenses from the era of the M3, and there the V1 collapsible Summicron is great, as is the 50 DR Cron.
You are spoiled for choice..

Thanks so much for #1 and #2. I assume this means do NOT change lenses in broad daylight? I only plan on getting one lens for this camera, but this is important so still.

As for the second bolded point, why is that what you prefer? The previous owner was telling me he much prefers the Pre-ASPH f1.4 over the ASPH version because the images with the latter come out "overly technical."
 

Ko.Fe.

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Advice? Post in rangefinder sub-forum.
M3 is not just 35mm Leica. :smile:

Oh, ASPH means clinically shaper and more object in focus separation.
And f1.4 means you have to watch it under bright sun. Or you'll get the hole in the curtain.
 
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FoidPoosening

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Advice? Post in rangefinder sub-forum.
M3 is not just 35mm Leica. :smile:

Oh, ASPH means clinically shaper and more object in focus separation.
And f1.4 means you have to watch it under bright sun. Or you'll get the hole in the curtain.

Even with the lens on the camera? If you could explain that in more detail I'd appreciate it!

Also, posted there, thanks for that distinction. :smile:
 

Ko.Fe.

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Even with the lens on the camera? If you could explain that in more detail I'd appreciate it!

Also, posted there, thanks for that distinction. :smile:

With so fast lens on the camera you have classic magnifying glass with burning point on the curtain. And it is not uncommon to see curtains with damage-repair due to this.
I only forgot to close the 50 1.5 lens aperture once, under bright sun and above white snow. Left outside for few minutes leaving lens open at 1.5. It was enough to have curtain toasted even without pointing camera to the sun.

http://leica.nemeng.com/025b.shtml
 
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FoidPoosening

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With so fast lens on the camera you have classic magnifying glass with burning point on the curtain. And it is not uncommon to see curtains with damage-repair due to this.
I only forgot to close the 50 1.5 lens aperture once, under bright sun and above white snow. Left outside for few minutes leaving lens open at 1.5. It was enough to have curtain toasted even without pointing camera to the sun.

http://leica.nemeng.com/025b.shtml

Thanks for the pointers. Been researching which 50mm lens to get for a few weeks. Saw an opportunity for a Summicron-M 50mm f2 type 4 lens and pulled the trigger (rationale being price, I like the focus tab and if I need a really fast lens I'll just use my FD system w/ 50mm f1.2L) so I cannot wait to get shooting!
 

Theo Sulphate

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Don't forget to remove the lens cap when making a photo.

Some people put something large and obvious on their cap, so it shows up in the viewfinder.

I don't use lens caps and I always keep the camera pointed away from the sun - or I cover the lens with my hand.

True for any rangefinder, really.
 

Ko.Fe.

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Thanks for the pointers. Been researching which 50mm lens to get for a few weeks. Saw an opportunity for a Summicron-M 50mm f2 type 4 lens and pulled the trigger (rationale being price, I like the focus tab and if I need a really fast lens I'll just use my FD system w/ 50mm f1.2L) so I cannot wait to get shooting!

Lovely lens! Must be canadian :smile:
I also like, using RF M lens with tab and have 50 1.2L in EOS mount. It is tab or USM focusing for me:smile:
 
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Set your lens back to infinity after every picture and you will be able to focus incredibly fast since you won't be fishing back and forth. Once you get in the habit it is easy to do. I automatically do it these days when I take the camera away from my eye. Once you get used to it you can focus as fast as an autofocus camera.

You can also focus without looking once you get used to where the tab is at a given distance. Since you only have one lens it should be easy for you.

You'll need to work out a procedure for changing film so you can get quick at it. Don't lose the spool! Some people buy an extra spool and keep film loaded on it or just to have around.

Hope that helps you.
 

cliveh

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I would suggest the advice about using a lens cap is a load of bunkum. If you use a lens cap on a range finder system, chances are you will sometimes forget to take it off and when that happens, chances are you will miss your shot of a lifetime. I have never used a lens cap and I always use a 1.4 50mm and have never had a hole burnt in the shutter curtain.
 
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Luis-F-S

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As for the second bolded point, why is that what you prefer? The previous owner was telling me he much prefers the Pre-ASPH f1.4 over the ASPH version because the images with the latter come out "overly technical."
I would not waste money on a 50 Asph, get one of the later pre-Asph Summicrons. With the money U save you can get a Hasselblad!
 
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#3 do not keep your shutter cocked for days at a time. Pretty much like most cameras.

This is why my M2 is at expensive repair currently.
 

Alan9940

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You don't mention what style of shooting you anticipate with the M3, but if street shooting you may wish to consider lenses with tabs because, with practice, you can pre-focus the lens simply be feel of where the tab is. Then, if you use a wrist strap you'll be able to very quickly bring the camera to your eye and shoot.

Oh, and congrats on your purchase. I have two M6's and I love 'em!
 

ColColt

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Don't forget to remove the lens cap when making a photo.

This advice is of paramount importance, needless to say. I've taken shots sometimes 2-3 in a row only to discover the cap still on the lens. It happens if you haven't been shooting a RF long. You may or may not know the M3 doesn't have 35mm frame lines if that matters to you down the road.

I have two 50mm lens, the DR Summicron, Zeiss Biogon f2 and there's not a dime's worth of difference other than contrast goes to the Zeiss but not much. I think any modern Leitz lens will not disappoint.
 

cliveh

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With so fast lens on the camera you have classic magnifying glass with burning point on the curtain. And it is not uncommon to see curtains with damage-repair due to this.
I only forgot to close the 50 1.5 lens aperture once, under bright sun and above white snow. Left outside for few minutes leaving lens open at 1.5. It was enough to have curtain toasted even without pointing camera to the sun.

http://leica.nemeng.com/025b.shtml

This is rubbish. For a lens to act as a magnifying glass to burn the curtain when pointed at the sun, it has to be at a specific focal distance. This is not the case with the distance between the lens and the curtain for the focal range of the lens.
 
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Theo Sulphate

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If the lens is focused at infinity and you point it at the sun, you will burn a hole in the shutter curtain.

This is because you've essentially focused on the sun. You probably can do it focused closer than infinity.
 
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FoidPoosening

FoidPoosening

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This advice is of paramount importance, needless to say. I've taken shots sometimes 2-3 in a row only to discover the cap still on the lens. It happens if you haven't been shooting a RF long. You may or may not know the M3 doesn't have 35mm frame lines if that matters to you down the road.

I have two 50mm lens, the DR Summicron, Zeiss Biogon f2 and there's not a dime's worth of difference other than contrast goes to the Zeiss but not much. I think any modern Leitz lens will not disappoint.

Hopefully I'll be okay as I don't normally keep the lens cap on my cameras when shooting. That being said, I did realize prior to purchasing the M3 doesn't have 35mm frame lines. I thought long and hard about that, but decided I'm going to shoot Leica exclusively in 50mm. Keep it simple. Plus, if I decide to shoot 35mm I should be using my Canon FD 20-35mm f3.5L or FD 35mm 2.8 SSC Tilt shift on one of my Canon bodies.

Maybe that's not how other people look at it, but I thought it best not to give myself the 35mm option, as my wallet would hate me later haha.
 

Helinophoto

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It's a Leica, no lenses under $10 000 please, or you will get burned by the Secret Leica Society (Illeicalati)

Then again, you can piss off everyone and smack any m-lens you find out there on it, even Jupiter-lenses, if you can find one that is properly adjusted and collimated(?) to the M-mount.

If I had a M3 (I have a M6), I would seek out one of the original collapsible 50's, it just looks right on the camera. (renders great pictures too) ^^ Getting the version for close focusing -with googles, would probably be best choice.

- As for the lens-cap, good advice.
I don't use one, unless I put the camera in the bag. I tend to use a lens-shade and try not to point it into the sun, but if you can remember to take it off for every photo, it will work out well.
 
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summicron1

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ur gonna hear a lot about this lens or that -- keep in mind, Leica made very little really bad glass. I use pretty much only their really old lenses -- stuff made in the 50s and 60s. My 50mm Summicron is a screw mount with an adaptor.

Ya know what? The images are always amazing. Some folks may say that the newer very expensive lenses, apo or asph or whatever, are better, and maybe they are, but it is only by degree of excellence. The real deciding factor is you and how you see light.

So, find a good clean clear lens that you can afford, ur there.

I almost never use a lens cap. Saves me the trouble of taking it off. That's why God gave us lens brushes.
 

ME Super

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I just got a Leica projector a month or so ago (hey, it's like a camera, only in reverse) and it's the bees knees. I can only imagine how much you're gonna enjoy your new-to-you M3. I'm kinda partial to the Pentax SLRs, though.
 
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